I am in the process of replacing the fuel pump on my '99 Vanden Plas. With the fuel lines welded to the fuel tank, there appears to be almost No flexibility to remove and eventually replace the rubber sleeves that connect the rigid fuel lines to the pump assembly cover on the top of the tank, without risking breaking one of the plastic fittings that go into the tank. What have others done to remove and replace these rubber sleeves without damage to the plastic fittings?

 

The fuel lines are not welded, but snap into the tank and can be released, with difficulty, with common fuel line/AC release tools. Do a search on the forums for fuel pump replacement of check jagrepair.com. The XK8 and XJ8 tanks are the same.

 

I couldn't use the A/C line disconnects on mine...they were jammed full of grit and a tar like substance. I wound up using a 1/2" piece of electrical conduit I modified by cutting it on one side with a die grinder and removed material until it wrapped around the fuel line. I then sharpened the end a tad to allow it to get into the release and work it in until it released.

I cannot believe the link was still available with the pics.... https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...5/#post1866785 ...post #14.

 

I must have not made my question clear enough. I am talking about the point where the fuel lines insert onto the TOP of the tank. Three of them, a pressure line, a return line, and, I think, an expansion line. The rigid metal fule lines, terminate about one inch from the plastic fittings that are part of the fuel pump assembly that inserts into the tank from the top. I am looking for hints to remove the rubber sleeves withour damaging the plastic "nipples" on the round assembly that attaches to the top of the gas tank. The rubber sleeves seem very stiff and inflexible, and I fear breaking the plastic the sleeves mate the metal lines to. sorry for not being clear enough.

 

Better to use a picture:

 

Undo the jubilee clips and free off all the hoses, (you can lube them to slide up and off the plastic barbs) pull the metal lines away and unclip the link lead from the fuel level sender, then get a big hammer and good flat screwdriver and knock the insert out. You will have access to the fuel pump loom and pump.

 

Yes, I should have sent a picture. My repair looks exactly like yours through the "access hole". I ended up just cutting the three rubber sleeves as they seemed really unwilling to slide, and I was very worried about damaging the plastic nipples. Although my shop is heated when I'm inside working, all of the objects, including these rubber and plastic parts were quite cold adding to my fears of damage. Hopefully, new sleeves and warmer temps when i replace everything will make that job a little easier, but neither I or my talented son could get the originals to budge.
AS often happens with such projects, the pump I ordered specifically by year, make and model, had a wider plug on the top ( and came with a plug and "splice" for the connector wire) which prevented the rubber boot from seating properly, as well as the bottom rubber boot not fitting perfectly, all of which conspired to not allow the replacement pump to fit inside the bracket, so I have another one ordered which "looks" like it will accommodate the original power plug and thus sit inside the bracket as the original..
Having the unit in my hands, outside the tank, does prompt one more question: exactly what does the sensor/sending unit, which is inside the small metal-covered cube, which plugs into the black 2-wire connector on the top of the unit actually do? Unless the tank is essentially overfilled, it would reside above the fluid level in the vapor of the tank, thus I am curious as to what information it is concerned with and transmits. .

Thanks to all for their wisdom and assistance thus far.

 

I fyou have the pump assembly out, you should be able to see "Sensor Fuel Tank Pressure" written on it. It should have a 3-wire connector.