HID Upgrade
#42
i tried to resolve the problem with the photos, but nothing would work, if you could email them to me that would be great, much appreciated, My Email is Kehres4@gmail.com
#43
Thanx for the update Sean. I haven't added a relay system yet; I just either turn the headlights on/off manually. Or, on a longer drive, turn the lights to auto so they automatically come on when needed, then just remember to turn them to off before starting.
Where did you get the relay system from?
Where did you get the relay system from?
http://myworld.ebay.co.uk/hk.aurora/
It took about 5 minutes to fit initially, then another 20 taping and fastening the loom to the car so it was neat. Quality of the loom is good, I checked all the parts and connections out before fitting, and lots of testing. I might swap the relay for a bosch/Jag item if it's cheapo.
This'll make your auto work with the hid's. I had exactly the same issue as your car.
There are now H7 bulb adaptors, making this install very easy.
#45
I'm also wondering which type of adapter would work with the Jaguar. Instead of hacking things up, an adapter would work great. Question is though, which one? I've seen a bunch for H7 BMW, but even those have several different types of adapters. Anyone know which adapter would work with our cars?
#46
The adapters i found were labeled for BMW's but i bought them and tried them and they fit perfectly on my Vanden Plas, here the link to the site
http://store.ijdmtoy.com/BMW-E39-5-S...adapter_07.htm
http://store.ijdmtoy.com/BMW-E39-5-S...adapter_07.htm
#47
Thanks Kehres4! I actually ordered that pair from eBay a few nights ago. I assumed by looking at the connector on the Jag they would fit, good to have some confirmation. Hopefully now people can look at this thread and understand that no cutting or modifying of stock parts is needed. It can be returned back to stock at any point. Cool stuff!
#49
#50
Need a little help!
After reading this thread, I bought lights, a relay harness, and went to town on my 99 XJR. I connected the 12v power to the larger of the two fuse boxes, where it jumps between them. I have what appears to be a solid ground. I only have hooked up one light to test my wiring, as it should make no difference as far as I can tell if the second light is in circuit.
First, the light do not come on with auto function. If I go manual, the light fires up, but after a bit of warm up starts to fluctuate (the light starts looking a little yellow around the edges too).
I thought the relay harness was supposed to nail all the issues, but NO!
I know the relay is working, or the lights would not come on in manual. The power only gets through to the ballasts through the relay. I have cut the old bulb wires near the bulb and soldered them on to connectors that connect to the harness to tell it is has a voltage, thus to trip the relay.
I would not suppose the ground is not good enough, and I have a solid 12v. Is there anything I am missing here?
****
In trouble shooting I changed bulbs, no difference. I changed ballast, no difference, I hooked both sides up, no difference. I don't believe it is the bulb or ballast, and the relay is a simple device. I guess (while writing this) I could jump past the relay to test it, and I will. Assuming that tells me nothing, any help would be appreciated!!
****
I started the car, let it run with the lights on for a while, and the lights stabilized. Acceptable now, but not as solid as my Lincoln. Regardless, the autolight still does not function, only turning to manual does the trick. Am I supposed to put a resistive load across the relay?
Thanks,
Mike
After reading this thread, I bought lights, a relay harness, and went to town on my 99 XJR. I connected the 12v power to the larger of the two fuse boxes, where it jumps between them. I have what appears to be a solid ground. I only have hooked up one light to test my wiring, as it should make no difference as far as I can tell if the second light is in circuit.
First, the light do not come on with auto function. If I go manual, the light fires up, but after a bit of warm up starts to fluctuate (the light starts looking a little yellow around the edges too).
I thought the relay harness was supposed to nail all the issues, but NO!
I know the relay is working, or the lights would not come on in manual. The power only gets through to the ballasts through the relay. I have cut the old bulb wires near the bulb and soldered them on to connectors that connect to the harness to tell it is has a voltage, thus to trip the relay.
I would not suppose the ground is not good enough, and I have a solid 12v. Is there anything I am missing here?
****
In trouble shooting I changed bulbs, no difference. I changed ballast, no difference, I hooked both sides up, no difference. I don't believe it is the bulb or ballast, and the relay is a simple device. I guess (while writing this) I could jump past the relay to test it, and I will. Assuming that tells me nothing, any help would be appreciated!!
****
I started the car, let it run with the lights on for a while, and the lights stabilized. Acceptable now, but not as solid as my Lincoln. Regardless, the autolight still does not function, only turning to manual does the trick. Am I supposed to put a resistive load across the relay?
Thanks,
Mike
Last edited by michaeldeanrogers; 03-18-2011 at 06:16 PM.
#51
Why not go back to basics and remove the relay circuit. I didn't solder anything just used waterproof spade end connects just in case of faults or wanting to return it to spec.
Plug the ballasts in and try both with manual then auto. Helps to have a nice fit battery too.
#52
Thanks, Sean. I edited my post that the lights are now stable, but the auto function still does not work. Apparently I had to simply let them burn for a few minutes, as the flicker symptoms have largely abated. I put the high beams in and they also took about five minutes to settle down. After that, they are stable after the typical warm up.
Does it need a resistive load at the relay for the sensor to work? Still puzzled on the auto function...
Does it need a resistive load at the relay for the sensor to work? Still puzzled on the auto function...
Last edited by michaeldeanrogers; 03-18-2011 at 07:45 PM.
#53
#54
#55
Sean, you are a genius! LOL!
Well, I have been doing a lot of repair work on this vehicle to bring it up to "like new" status, and one of those things was repairing the rear view mirror with the discoloration in the middle of it!! It is currently on its way back from being rebuilt. So, without a light sensor, I am not surprised the auto lights don't work!
Doh!
Well, I have been doing a lot of repair work on this vehicle to bring it up to "like new" status, and one of those things was repairing the rear view mirror with the discoloration in the middle of it!! It is currently on its way back from being rebuilt. So, without a light sensor, I am not surprised the auto lights don't work!
Doh!
#56
#57
Here is the results of my HID project. Note I also changed the parking light to an LED to better match the color of the new HID lights. The orange-ish light just looked a bit out of place...
The LEDs light up very dimmly for a bit after turn-off, but after a while go out completely, and oddity that doesn't seem to affect anything negatively as far as I can see so far.
The performance of the new lights are an improvement over the OEM stock, and when in high beam (I did the highs also), it is a veritable flame thrower. Yet, on low beam I have yet to have a single flash from an oncoming vehicle. I admit I was apprehensive at first, but no harm, no foul! I am loving the improved night vision, and the stylishness of it all! This is definitely an easy project with a high payback. FYI, I paid $80 for the HID (both high and low beams together), and $20 for the LEDs, so the entire project was just over $100 including shipping.
The LEDs light up very dimmly for a bit after turn-off, but after a while go out completely, and oddity that doesn't seem to affect anything negatively as far as I can see so far.
The performance of the new lights are an improvement over the OEM stock, and when in high beam (I did the highs also), it is a veritable flame thrower. Yet, on low beam I have yet to have a single flash from an oncoming vehicle. I admit I was apprehensive at first, but no harm, no foul! I am loving the improved night vision, and the stylishness of it all! This is definitely an easy project with a high payback. FYI, I paid $80 for the HID (both high and low beams together), and $20 for the LEDs, so the entire project was just over $100 including shipping.
#60