So here's where I'm at - I have an '02 VDP with 121000 miles on it that I purchased about a month ago. I have put 2000 miles on it so far and while it is not perfect it has not left me stranded anywhere. The local Jag dealer in Columbia SC has a six week wait for a service appointment, and I have not been able to find a local mechanic that I feel is competent enough to work on it. So, I find myself here trying to fix it myself and I am grateful for all of the help and advice you have given me already. I just had rotator cuff surgery 8 weeks ago so my physical abilities are limited. Here are the issues:

Codes P0171 and P0174 (lean both banks). It also shows a P1111 code which says IAT high voltage but which I understand is a default code and I should ignore. Car runs great when it's cold, then after about ten minutes it wants to act up and sometimes shows a "Restricted Performance" warning. Then after about 20 minutes it settles down. I've checked visually for vacuum or air intake leaks and don't see anything wrong. I also replaced the air filter and all of the plugs and coil packs with no improvement. Next is to change the fuel filter. I'm going to try and find a mechanic who can do a smoke test to see if there are any non-obvious leaks.

The ABS/ASC/Trac lights come on intermittently (30-40% of the time). I suspect a loose connection, or corroded/bad sensor.

Nothing happens when I push the central locking button on the dash, and the front power door locks do not work with the fob. The right brake light also doesn't work. I suspect the SCLM.

Finally (and the reason for this post) is while I was looking for the SCLM I saw this in the spare wheel well. I suspect it is the High Power Protection Module based on the shop manual I have, but I don't understand why the connector is unplugged? The connector has three wires going into it - a black, a blue/yellow, and a brown. The module also seems to have power in the form of red and black wires into it. Part of me wants to plug this connector in and see what happens but the other part says to leave it the h**l alone. So a couple of questions -

Does anyone know a decent mechanic they can recommend in central SC?
Can anyone identify this part and tell me why it might be disconnected?

Thanks.

 

Bob ?

shipping protection ?

ABS/ASC/Trac lights is usually clean the the face of the wheel speed sensors first

The right brake light only usually has a history of a bad ground in the lamp base , correct bulb and does the center socket pin have power ?

If it is due for a battery now would be the time before a shop visit cost , the electronics like a good battery

Never install the battery in backwards , positive post in positive direction of travel

See page 22 and 39 for transit isolation device

jagrepair.com/images/AutoRepairPhotos/jagxj2002.pdf

Double click on image

 

The "High Power Protection Module" your picture shows is the master fuse box. There are only 3 very large fuses inside. The connector with three wires is not related to it. Sometimes, the connections at the large fuses develop some resistance causing troubles so it is a good thing to open the box and inspect and clean the connections if they appear somewhat corroded.

 

Thanks for that. Any idea what the three wire connector is for and why it's not connected?

 

Completely ignore that 3 pin connector. Going solely by what motorcarman (Bob) has said in the past, it’s likely for shipping the cars overseas as Parker has suggested.

Replace the tail light bulb or switch it with the other side before you look into the SLCM.

 

All good advise. I am confident that the connector is used for shipping the car (lots of threads) on it. P1111 is the GOOD code: you can pass an emission test. The lean signals might be fixed by cleaning the throttle plate and bore, cleaning the MAF sensor, and using a really good fuel system cleaner -- always worked on my intermittent code in my RRS/SC -- Gumout.

The rough running after starting may be a bad temperature sensor in the cooling system cross pipe -- enriches due to cold, but doesn't sense that the engine is now warm . . .