I wrote this up in answer to someone's specific question, but I thought I would post it for anyone else who is looking to do this. I did it myself- pretty easy. For my car (1998) the bulbs are removable from their housings and can be purchased at any auto parts store. the bulb number is 194. (I understand later years have non removable bulbs, but i cannot varify this and do not know the cutoff date. I would imagine that those would need to be gotten from a dealer.)

Put steering wheel fully down and out. remove veneer trim around speedo instruments by pulling on areas between gauges.(held by clips should pop free. It is backed in metal and quite sturdy) You will have to remove the trip computer and the fog lamp switches just push up and pull out, then disconnect the electrical connectors. loosen the 4 total deep set screws, two on each side of the instrument cluster. you should them have the plastic trim piece that goes around the individual gauges as a separate piece. set it aside. There are two connectors at the bottom of the speedo assembly that easily disconnect. once they are disconnected, you should be able to slide out the gauge cluster. you will see that there are 4 plastic bulb holders with a place to grab them and turn them out on the back. note which way they are oriented. I needed to use a pair of needle nose pliers to get them to turn. once they are out, pull the bulb straight out (you may need to wiggle it side to side). replace with new bulbs. do all bulbs at the same time so you don't have to get in there in a month and do it again.remembering the orientation, line up the bulb holders and turn them to lock back into place. (I had to use the pliers again) While thew assembly is out, it is a good time to clean the clear lens with plastic polish to remove any scratches, fingerprints, ect. reverse to reassemble.

P.S - a magnetic tipped screwdriver is the only way to get those deep set screws back in.

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