How do I fix a leaking thermostat-housing? (see photo)
#21
![Default](/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Hello everyone,
I started a new thread with my symptoms. It is titled “A/C compressor clutch disengages on its own and wont restart then car overheats” Here is the link
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...rheats-221186/
I started a new thread with my symptoms. It is titled “A/C compressor clutch disengages on its own and wont restart then car overheats” Here is the link
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...rheats-221186/
#22
![Default](/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I was continuously getting the error code for my thermostat not closing to allow engine to heat up. Ordered thermostat and aluminum housing. When I saw the placement of those back bolts and not having an 8mm claw wrench (and not having read the work arounds above) I decided to not replace the housing. So I replaced the thermostat and sent the housing back for a refund less shipping. Never a drop of coolant loss before. Yesterday get a low coolant warning. There is a hairline crack in the horizontal outlet to the cross over pipe. Aaaarrrrggghhh! Guess pulling off the hoses caused the crack. Lesson learned.
The following users liked this post:
Highhorse (07-08-2021)
#23
![Default](/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
No, those cross over pipes have the same plastic as the TST tower; this time, replace both. There are lots of ways to remove the old tower and install a new one. Becomes a big deal if the tech building the car used too long a bolt in the rear of the tower -- you might have to raise the manifold. But when you replace the cross over, the labor to replace the tower is also half done. . . also you get a new temperature sensor.
Frustrated, I bought tons of 8mikemike wrenches to find one that would work, none did -- wasted money, there are shorter bolts available at ACE or any good hardware store that won't require a wrench: I took my Dremel tool and cut a screwdriver slot in the rear bolts I had -- used a long, thin screwdriver to tighten them -- the seal is a compression O ring, they don't need to be tightened that tightly. Never leaked again.
While there, might replace the water pump too. I liked AC Delco. Check the drive belt and tensioner -- same labor, do it once!
Frustrated, I bought tons of 8mikemike wrenches to find one that would work, none did -- wasted money, there are shorter bolts available at ACE or any good hardware store that won't require a wrench: I took my Dremel tool and cut a screwdriver slot in the rear bolts I had -- used a long, thin screwdriver to tighten them -- the seal is a compression O ring, they don't need to be tightened that tightly. Never leaked again.
While there, might replace the water pump too. I liked AC Delco. Check the drive belt and tensioner -- same labor, do it once!
#24
![Default](/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Went through the steps referenced above by breaking out old plastic tower. Used Dremel tool to cut off top of bolts so room to remove. Got some hex head bolts and round end hex head long sockets. Side B rear bold went in tight (angle to hex head fairly vertical. Side A more of an angle. When tightening it rounded off the hex head bolt. Not tight enough, coolant leak.
Loosening the manifold is not the big of a deal. You DO NOT need to disconnect throttle body from back of manifold. Throttle body is on a hinge. Manifold tilts up plenty for room to replace tower.
Loosening the manifold is not the big of a deal. You DO NOT need to disconnect throttle body from back of manifold. Throttle body is on a hinge. Manifold tilts up plenty for room to replace tower.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
nocall4it
XJ XJ8 / XJR ( X308 )
28
10-24-2014 11:36 PM
Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)