How Much Harder Is It to Install Shocks in a VDP?
#1
How Much Harder Is It to Install Shocks in a VDP?
Local mechanics charge $80 Labor to install 4 shocks in most cars. For the VDP, they want $280-$580. (Labor only... I would provide the shocks)
My car is a 2001 VDP and the shocks seem to me to be pretty much standard shocks. They're not struts. They're not spring seated.
One shop that quoted $580 said 2.3 hours for the front... 3 hours for the rear.
So... what's the difference with this car?
Thanks gang...
SirJag
My car is a 2001 VDP and the shocks seem to me to be pretty much standard shocks. They're not struts. They're not spring seated.
One shop that quoted $580 said 2.3 hours for the front... 3 hours for the rear.
So... what's the difference with this car?
Thanks gang...
SirJag
#2
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SirJag (05-06-2011)
#3
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SirJag (05-08-2011)
#4
I honestly don't have any preconceptions about the job's simplicity... I just wondered why the great disparity in costs for this car vs. most other cars. :-) I sometimes thought that they see a Jag and they figure they can get more $.
SirJag
#5
From my experience the fronts were the toughest to change, you need to disconnect the lower balljoint and drop the lower control arm so far down that you end up having to deal with the coil spring coming out. Getting it back together was a pain, requires a coil spring compressor, a specialized one I believe but I ended up using an internal style from a corvette buddy down the street, it was not particularly easy from what I remember. As far as the rear goes I also remember having to unbolt almost half the suspension and I think removing the rear seat back.
A post lift and pole jacks are pretty much a requirement.
A post lift and pole jacks are pretty much a requirement.
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SirJag (05-08-2011)
#6
Front shocks JTIS instructions and special tools
Hi SirJag
Here is a PDF file extracted from JTIS CD with instructions & illustrations on the front shock absorber replacement:
2001 xj8 front shock absorber.pdf
Also looks like the special tools needed are $276 plus (2 camber tie down link tools - JD 133 (204-114). They are listed as needed special tools in the JTIS instructions.
Maybe the forum should think about a member tool rental like the one that Jaguar UK forum has going:
Jaguar Tools For Hire
Says the tool costs is 90 pounds and the rental is 15 pounds.
I do not know how many members would try to replace their own front shock absorbers. It might be dangerous with so much tension on the front springs.
Here is the JTIS extract for the rear shock absorber replacement:
2001 xj8 rear shock absorber.pdf
Jim Lombardi
Here is a PDF file extracted from JTIS CD with instructions & illustrations on the front shock absorber replacement:
2001 xj8 front shock absorber.pdf
Also looks like the special tools needed are $276 plus (2 camber tie down link tools - JD 133 (204-114). They are listed as needed special tools in the JTIS instructions.
Maybe the forum should think about a member tool rental like the one that Jaguar UK forum has going:
Jaguar Tools For Hire
Says the tool costs is 90 pounds and the rental is 15 pounds.
I do not know how many members would try to replace their own front shock absorbers. It might be dangerous with so much tension on the front springs.
Here is the JTIS extract for the rear shock absorber replacement:
2001 xj8 rear shock absorber.pdf
Jim Lombardi
Last edited by jimlombardi; 05-07-2011 at 08:21 PM.
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#7
Thanks to all for their replies. I see now--especially from Jim's posting of the PDFs--what a job this is. Did Jaguar make servicing their cars more difficult simply to drive repair work to the dealers?
Also, can someone tell me a good test for knowing if shocks need replacement? I was told my front lower control arm bushings need replacement... also my tie rod ends and this could be a sign that my front shocks are also needing replacement. I remember the old push down the hood and count the bounces test, but this likely doesn't apply to a VDP.
Thanks all...
SirJag
Also, can someone tell me a good test for knowing if shocks need replacement? I was told my front lower control arm bushings need replacement... also my tie rod ends and this could be a sign that my front shocks are also needing replacement. I remember the old push down the hood and count the bounces test, but this likely doesn't apply to a VDP.
Thanks all...
SirJag
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#8
SirJag no Jaguar didn't design these cars with service costs involved. It would be an easy job if they did that! No, they designed the suspension to be outstanding, which it is when it works. The amount of isolator bushes involved tell the tale of a well thought out design is, hours and hours on the "cobbled road" at MIRA dictated how Jaguar decided on the layout.
If you think this is bad, I'd suggest looking at how involved changing dampers/discs or pads on an E-Type, they were designing a supple ride 50 years ago, with no regard to service!
A bounce test will give you an indication if your car isn't CATS damper equipped.
I've just found I have to do this job, a front end damper change as one of my cats shocks is leaking fluid, I'm still a bit "shocked" sorry for the pun, but they rarely fail, hence no replies in my thread about them.
If you think this is bad, I'd suggest looking at how involved changing dampers/discs or pads on an E-Type, they were designing a supple ride 50 years ago, with no regard to service!
A bounce test will give you an indication if your car isn't CATS damper equipped.
I've just found I have to do this job, a front end damper change as one of my cats shocks is leaking fluid, I'm still a bit "shocked" sorry for the pun, but they rarely fail, hence no replies in my thread about them.
#9
The XJ's has a suspension layout that dates back decades. The suspension needed to provide the ride and handling expected in a Jaguar and still fit within the space of the body design.
The design of the rear suspension was particularly unusual. With Jaguar .......design and performance were primary -- ease of servicing was lower on the list.
Normally by 100k the front suspension in a Jaguar XJ is in need of some work. The design often requires that the spring be compressed and because of that the shocks and other bushings are often replace "while its opened up". The front end becomes an all or nothing proposition. Often, at 100k if the shocks are not leaking they are fine - but clearly they are past the 1/2 way point of the service life.
The design of the rear suspension was particularly unusual. With Jaguar .......design and performance were primary -- ease of servicing was lower on the list.
Normally by 100k the front suspension in a Jaguar XJ is in need of some work. The design often requires that the spring be compressed and because of that the shocks and other bushings are often replace "while its opened up". The front end becomes an all or nothing proposition. Often, at 100k if the shocks are not leaking they are fine - but clearly they are past the 1/2 way point of the service life.
#10
The front shocks are very easy to replace. You do not need to undue the lower ball joint and you don't need to compress the spring. Support the front of the car with the whells off the ground and then place a jack under the lower control arm to support the spring while you unbolt the shock.
The rears are replaced as Sean B described. You can use standard spring compressors once you remove the shock/spring assembly from the car. Be careful of the lower shock bolt which rusts itself into the lower control arm
The rears are replaced as Sean B described. You can use standard spring compressors once you remove the shock/spring assembly from the car. Be careful of the lower shock bolt which rusts itself into the lower control arm
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#11
The front shocks are very easy to replace. You do not need to undue the lower ball joint and you don't need to compress the spring. Support the front of the car with the whells off the ground and then place a jack under the lower control arm to support the spring while you unbolt the shock.
The rears are replaced as Sean B described. You can use standard spring compressors once you remove the shock/spring assembly from the car. Be careful of the lower shock bolt which rusts itself into the lower control arm
The rears are replaced as Sean B described. You can use standard spring compressors once you remove the shock/spring assembly from the car. Be careful of the lower shock bolt which rusts itself into the lower control arm
The rears are more involved but do not require specialized compressors.
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Alvin Burns (05-09-2011)
#12
#14
The front shocks are very easy to replace. You do not need to undue the lower ball joint and you don't need to compress the spring. Support the front of the car with the whells off the ground and then place a jack under the lower control arm to support the spring while you unbolt the shock.
The rears are replaced as Sean B described. You can use standard spring compressors once you remove the shock/spring assembly from the car. Be careful of the lower shock bolt which rusts itself into the lower control arm
The rears are replaced as Sean B described. You can use standard spring compressors once you remove the shock/spring assembly from the car. Be careful of the lower shock bolt which rusts itself into the lower control arm
#16
#17
An interesting choice having 2 different makes on the car. It's pot luck if bushes are supplied, I know the rear lowers are the most expensive of the lot lower fronts are cheap. Let us know how the car handles with the 2 different makes of shock. Could you not get cheap Bilsteins all round?
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SirJag (05-17-2011)
#18
An interesting choice having 2 different makes on the car. It's pot luck if bushes are supplied, I know the rear lowers are the most expensive of the lot lower fronts are cheap. Let us know how the car handles with the 2 different makes of shock. Could you not get cheap Bilsteins all round?
Now, if someone wants to make a good case against my decision to use 2 different brands, I'd love to hear it. I haven't installed the shocks yet and I'm willing to return the Monroe's for more KYB's.
I have no good reason for the 2 brands... it's just how I ended up buying them. If it really matters, I'd correct the error of my ways. You guys have never steered me wrong. <--- (Note the excellent car humor.)
SirJag
Last edited by SirJag; 05-13-2011 at 01:47 PM.
#19
FRONT BUSHINGS NEEDED? Look at These 2 Illustrations from the JPEC
Regarding the bushings that did not come with KYB front shocks, can someone tell me... do I simply need 4 of these:
Amazon.com: OES Genuine Shock Bushing for select Jaguar models: Automotive
KYB said...
"KG5783 does not include any bushings, at the time of engineering that part, KYB did not have the tooling to produce the bushings, and we recommend getting them from the dealer when replacing the shocks,"
When I look at the JPEC, I don't see bushings in the illustration for the front shocks. For the rear shocks, they're clearly shown. See the 2 attachments.
Can someone confirm if I need bushings for the front shocks?
Thanks,
SirJag
Amazon.com: OES Genuine Shock Bushing for select Jaguar models: Automotive
KYB said...
"KG5783 does not include any bushings, at the time of engineering that part, KYB did not have the tooling to produce the bushings, and we recommend getting them from the dealer when replacing the shocks,"
When I look at the JPEC, I don't see bushings in the illustration for the front shocks. For the rear shocks, they're clearly shown. See the 2 attachments.
Can someone confirm if I need bushings for the front shocks?
Thanks,
SirJag
Last edited by SirJag; 05-14-2011 at 01:21 AM.
#20
The upper bushing assembly for the front shocks are pressed into the steel shock mount and are sold only as an assembly ( and they are crazy expensive). The bushings are sold without the shock mount from vendors on this forum and it is easy to change them with a press or large C clamp. I noticed a huge reduction in the amount of road shock felt through the steering wheel after replacing mine at 92K miles.
For the rears I would recommend that you replace the upper spring seat bushings while you have the spring assembly apart (they are shown in your diagram). There is 0 labor costs to change them when doing the shocks.
For the rears I would recommend that you replace the upper spring seat bushings while you have the spring assembly apart (they are shown in your diagram). There is 0 labor costs to change them when doing the shocks.
Last edited by rocklandjag; 10-26-2012 at 05:00 PM.
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SirJag (05-17-2011)
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