How to remove and re-install door panels without damage?
#1
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Hello all,
3 of the 4 door speakers are not working on my new 2000 XJR. I have 3 extra speakers I pulled off my 2002 xjr to put in their places to hopefully fix the problem. All the other speakers work, tweeters, drivers door speaker, sub woofer work just fine.
My question is what is the procedure for removing and replacing the door panels so I can have access to replace the door speakers.
Is it just as easy as remove the few screws in the door handle area, then carefully pull as the metal tabs release, or is there something else I need to know?
Thanks in advance
3 of the 4 door speakers are not working on my new 2000 XJR. I have 3 extra speakers I pulled off my 2002 xjr to put in their places to hopefully fix the problem. All the other speakers work, tweeters, drivers door speaker, sub woofer work just fine.
My question is what is the procedure for removing and replacing the door panels so I can have access to replace the door speakers.
Is it just as easy as remove the few screws in the door handle area, then carefully pull as the metal tabs release, or is there something else I need to know?
Thanks in advance
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#2
The following 2 users liked this post by plums:
Platinum XJR (11-15-2013),
WaterDragon (08-11-2013)
#3
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As said above you have to pull off the wood trim. First take the screw out of the door handle then there is a second screw in the bottom of the arm rest. Take the light cover off the bottom of the door and I started to pull it off from there. There was also a screw down near the corner nearest the speaker on mine. I don't think that was a factory screw though lol. I believe mine has been off before. I would recommend a tool they sell at the auto store to pry the panels out without damaging the clips. I damaged a few taking mine off, but luckily they are easy to replace. I would check out the above mentioned thread for details with pics. Good luck!
#4
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Actually did this just today, to replace the door check arm. It's not that bad. First remove the button behind the door handle, which hides a screw there. The button isn't the easiest thing to remove, but after that it gets pretty easy. Remove the screw behind the button and remove the escutcheon(pull the handle open while removing it). The wood trim is removed by gently prying out the rear of the trim, releasing it from the two clips there, and while pulling it lightly away from the panel, slide it toward the rear of door. There is one screw that needs to removed from underneath the arm rest before prying the fir tree fasteners loose at the sides and bottom of the panel. I recommend a door upholstery removal tool, available at Advance Auto Parts(about $8.00). After getting these loose there is a clip near the center of the door...you'll have to pull a little harder than you'll be comfortable with, but it's okay......you'll have to give it a good tug at the arm rest to release it. Then just lift it straight up and remove. I didn't remove the light at the bottom of the door......I just unplugged the connections for the light, speaker and power window controls. The light has a connector with a spring loaded pin.....push down in the center of the metal pin thing and pull it out. The window switch connector is a little different........it is yellow,with a black plastic strap on top, which is a little scary, as it will feel like you're going to break it, but you have to get the strap "unlocked" and pull toward the front of the car, and the connector will be "ejected". The speaker connection is pretty straight forward, just pinch the lock at the back side of the connector and disconnect. That's it, nothing real hard. Hope that helps some. I also had to install a missing exhaust support insulator.......I don't wish that one on anybody..lol.
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WaterDragon (08-11-2013)
#5
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I was led to believe it isn't necessary to remove the timber insert??
Do these help to hold on the door cover?
The original speakers are made by Phillips and are pretty good.
Not often they fail, unless they have been overworked.
It's more often than not a wiring problem so, it's best to check circuits and ohm levels of the speaker units.
I have a set of Polk Audio drivers and cross overs to fit when i get a Rown Tewitt ;o)
And will also fit that sound dampening sheeting at the same time....I'm led to believe it really improves the sound.
Last edited by xjay8; 08-10-2013 at 11:42 PM.
#6
#7
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removing the wood trim separately is absolutely necessary unless you fancy butchering it.
it's probably the easiest, cleanest part of the job.
it can be pulled off together ... the problem is it will forever rattle after the job because the fastening system has been compromised.
it's probably the easiest, cleanest part of the job.
it can be pulled off together ... the problem is it will forever rattle after the job because the fastening system has been compromised.
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#8
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that's why I avoid interior disassembly at all cost, something always goes wrong, even though I used to be a rattle, squeak and wind noise specialist.
btw, that little cap hiding the screw under the interior latch pull handle ... prepare for it to take flight and cost two hours of hunting ... use an x-acto knife or jeweller's screw driver to pry it up, remembering that the edge scars easily.
btw, that little cap hiding the screw under the interior latch pull handle ... prepare for it to take flight and cost two hours of hunting ... use an x-acto knife or jeweller's screw driver to pry it up, remembering that the edge scars easily.
Last edited by plums; 08-11-2013 at 12:41 AM.
#9
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Thanks for that ;o)
My door cards have already been off four years ago when i had the Bolles window tint installed.The installer said they had no problems...and he used the edge of a compass needle to flick out the little cover.
So far, all my doors are rattle free.
But come the warmer months, I shall be busy installing the new speaker eqipment and then i will tackle the infamous driver seat wobble...a suspected broken bracket which is not uncommon apparently.
My door cards have already been off four years ago when i had the Bolles window tint installed.The installer said they had no problems...and he used the edge of a compass needle to flick out the little cover.
So far, all my doors are rattle free.
But come the warmer months, I shall be busy installing the new speaker eqipment and then i will tackle the infamous driver seat wobble...a suspected broken bracket which is not uncommon apparently.
#10
#11
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My wood inserts were just about all cracked in the finish from someone removing the door panels when I got my car. They were not real noticeable, but an irritation. I got some new ones for a good price that pushed straight in instead of having the "hooks" at the rear. Just a "heads-up". Bending the wood bits is a little tricky.
The following 5 users liked this post by mzs_biteme:
jimlombardi (06-28-2014),
Platinum XJR (11-15-2013),
plums (08-12-2013),
WaterDragon (08-12-2013),
wrd0225 (10-15-2013)
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wrd0225 (10-15-2013)
#14
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I recently had to remove the left rear door panel to replace the cheap micro switch for the puddle lights and such. BTW found two of these at a junkyard and bought for $13.00. Mp door card is messed up and i can't find one part.Attachment 89477 I'm not sure if either pictures attached. I have more but am having difficulty attaching them. Thanks for the help.
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DesertTinker (12-23-2019)
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