how to repair Steering Column Reach Motor cable on an XJ8 1998
#1
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xj8 1998. I have the cash register noise that keeps my steering wheel from telescoping. I am looking for diagrams and/or instructions on how to replace the Steering Column Reach Motor cable. I have the cable, just now need to know where is the cable.
#2
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#9
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OK, my turn. Telescope motor assembly started clicking, wheel would not move. Could still hear the motor running. Clicking finally went away so I guess the little flex shaft got rounded enough so that it doesn't make any noise any more.
Replacement in hand from Coventry West, $44.95 plus shipping.
JTIS and BRUTAL say 'drop the steering column down'. With a mirror and positioning myself upside and backwards I can see the upper bolts but cannot imagine how to reach them with a socket/universal/extension. Seem to be Allen type bolts installed from the firewall side so removing the steering wheel is not going to help.
A little finer detail on how to reach the bolts would be appreciated. Allen size also.
EDIT: The bolts appear to be TROX and inserted from the steering wheel side but am still befuddled as to how to reach them.
Never did like working under the dash.
Replacement in hand from Coventry West, $44.95 plus shipping.
JTIS and BRUTAL say 'drop the steering column down'. With a mirror and positioning myself upside and backwards I can see the upper bolts but cannot imagine how to reach them with a socket/universal/extension. Seem to be Allen type bolts installed from the firewall side so removing the steering wheel is not going to help.
A little finer detail on how to reach the bolts would be appreciated. Allen size also.
EDIT: The bolts appear to be TROX and inserted from the steering wheel side but am still befuddled as to how to reach them.
Never did like working under the dash.
Last edited by test point; 04-25-2010 at 01:19 PM.
#10
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for the telescoping motor there are no bolts to take off. as you look at the motor you will see a black plastic clip about an inch and have long. take a flathead screwdriver and pry up. do same for other side of the motor. the motor should lift off.
the challenge for me was aligning the flex rod at both ends. one of the end was a little warped so it didn't insert all the way in. had to use a pliers to compress down a little.
the challenge for me was aligning the flex rod at both ends. one of the end was a little warped so it didn't insert all the way in. had to use a pliers to compress down a little.
#11
#12
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Mine just "cashed out" as well yesterday. Brutal when you said drop the steering column did you mean drop the column, vs tilt the wheel all the way down?
I have not taken the trim piece off yet. But in my head I'm thinking of removing the front seat, 4 bolts & 2 electrical connections, remove the lower column trim and literally drop the column assembly? Then all will be in my lap?
Or is that way to much work.
I'm 6'4" plus so the more room I have the better!
I have not taken the trim piece off yet. But in my head I'm thinking of removing the front seat, 4 bolts & 2 electrical connections, remove the lower column trim and literally drop the column assembly? Then all will be in my lap?
Or is that way to much work.
I'm 6'4" plus so the more room I have the better!
#13
#14
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Perhaps you might comment of aligning the motor and position sensor with the steering wheel position. Research would indicate the you can screw the whole effort up by having the position sensor trying to run the column beyond its physical limits.
Next on my list of things to do after installing the Ford V8 in the 28 year old Volvo.
Next on my list of things to do after installing the Ford V8 in the 28 year old Volvo.
#15
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test point
Contact me via email and I can walk you through the reach motor/position sensor setup. The reason Jaguar did not recommend that we replace the reach motors (column replacement only) was because the sensor is usually the problem with the flex cable failure. The sensor will stop the motor before the limits are reached if it functions correctly and when it fails the motor continues to run and the short cable fails. If you operate the motor manually, you know to stop when the lower or upper limit is reached, but when AUTO is selected, then the relay does not stop if it never gets the 'limit reached' message. The motor runs until the cable fails and then you know you have a problem. I have boxes and boxes of steering columns for XJ and XK for the same fault. We trashed dozens (hundreds???) of columns for 'REACH' faults and I rescued a few from the trash dumpster. You need to run the motor to each limit with an ohm meter to get a 'MIDDLE' reading and then clip the motor to the column on the plastic mount.
bob gauff
Contact me via email and I can walk you through the reach motor/position sensor setup. The reason Jaguar did not recommend that we replace the reach motors (column replacement only) was because the sensor is usually the problem with the flex cable failure. The sensor will stop the motor before the limits are reached if it functions correctly and when it fails the motor continues to run and the short cable fails. If you operate the motor manually, you know to stop when the lower or upper limit is reached, but when AUTO is selected, then the relay does not stop if it never gets the 'limit reached' message. The motor runs until the cable fails and then you know you have a problem. I have boxes and boxes of steering columns for XJ and XK for the same fault. We trashed dozens (hundreds???) of columns for 'REACH' faults and I rescued a few from the trash dumpster. You need to run the motor to each limit with an ohm meter to get a 'MIDDLE' reading and then clip the motor to the column on the plastic mount.
bob gauff
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#20
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I had this poroblem on my 96 (it was one of the first repairs I attempted on a Jag). I got my screws (more like springs) from the local auto recycler. I got the reach screw and switch for $20. If they didn't fail in the donor vehicle, then they shouldn't in the recipient. Lasted till I said goodby to the car years later.