When changing the secondary tensioners is is it necessary to lock the flywheel?

 

Eric -
Not if you are using the "tie wrap" method. But yes if you are using the full factory procedure. The tie wrap method leaves the timing in whatever state it was before you start. The full method brings the timing back to absolute factory spec. But at the cost of a lot more work.

 

I was just going to lock the cams down with the jag tools, remove the sprocket, tensioner and slip the new tensioner in. Didn't think I had to lock the flywheel down and by your reply I take it that I would not have to? Thanks for your response.

 

If you remove the sprocket(s), you DO have to lock the cams down! And lock the crankshaft as well. With the tie wrap method, you do NOT remove the sprockets, you do not lock down the camshafts, and you do not have to lock the crankshaft. The ties just ensure that the two camshaft sprockets keep the same relative number of chain links between them. That is, the relative camshaft timing between intake and exhaust is not altered. So long as you don't loosen the sprockets from the camshafts!

 

Hi Cat Lovers

I recently purchase a primary tensioner kit that included new chains. I used the tie down method to replace both tensioners and unbolted the lobe bolts to work the tensioners out and replace the chain. I notice atfer doing so that the chains were not as tight as they were before. I double and triple check and everything looked good. So I bottom her back up and started her up. She runs but it sounds like the timming is off. I'm sure I did something wrong. I know there have been some talk about the timing marks on the flywheel. I'm really hoping that someone can steer me in the right direction. Any and all help is greatly appreciated.Thanks

 

The "tie wrap" method is ONLY for changing the secondary tensioners. Are you sure you didn't buy a SECONDARY tensioner kit? If you replaced the secondary tensioners, you should have kept the existing secondary chains. The point of the tie wrap method is to keep the same number of chain links between reference cog teeth on the **pulling side** of the secondary chain. That is, the side opposite the tensioners. On one bank, this is the side facing up, and on the other bank it is the side facing down. But for the side opposite the tensioners!

 

Boomer,

Thansk for the info. Looks like I'm in for a lot of work. I remove camshaft without crankshaft. Is there aronther way to correct the timing without going though a lot of headaches. Is it possible to get timing corrected by using the timing mark on the flywheel once the camshaft and sprocket is removed? I understand that this will not gain me the factory setting but possibly setting I had before? If I have to bite the bullet and do the complete upgrade I will. Just thought if I post my problem someone may be able to help me. If someone has a video please send it to stephens_ant@yahoo.com Thanks

 

Hmmmm..... If you have already loosened the camshaft sprockets, or removed the secondary camshaft chains, you are in deep doo-doo! Too late for anything like the tie-wrap method. Your only recourse to avoid fatal engine damage, is to do the complete timing procedure which is described in the sticky or reference section of this site. You will need the special plug to lock the crankshaft into position, as well as the tools to lock the camshafts down with the flats aligned. You could make the camshaft locking tools from some angle iron, bolts and washers - others have done that, and saved a few bucks. I'm not sure about the crankshaft positioning tool. You probably have to bite the bullet and buy that one. You also will need to have a puller to get the front crankshaft pulley off - that is a real bear, as it is tighter than a you-know-what.

Good luck. But you can always consider it an educational experience!

 

You can rent a tool kit which has the cam locking bars, special wrenches for tightening the cam sprockets, and the crank timing set peg. I found a kit on E-Bay for a $75 three week rental. Setting the crank peg is a pain as without a lift, you have to get the car up enough to get under it and work. Don't try to raise the car with the scissor jack as at some point, it will be lifting half the car (XK8) and it is not rated for that; mine broke. I fabricated an engine immobilizer from 2" flat bar. A six point socket, 1/2" breaker bar, and 30" piece of pipe were enough to loosen the dampener bolt. The dampener is a tapered fit so any puller will get it off.. Clean the holes well before screwing in the bolts and be sure you don't screw them in so far into the aluminum timing case as you can crack it.

 

1Smooth Jaguar, it sounds like you purchased a secondary cam chain tensioner kit. Did you actually remove the crank damper and front cover - or just the cam covers and the two short secondary cam chains ? If the latter is the case, you will need to lock the crank, loosen the cam sprockets and align and lock the cams and take up any VVT slack and tighten everything down. I'm surprised you didn't have more trouble if you just adjusted it by eye the first time.

 

Thanks. This is an important piece of information that is missing from he original description of how the job was completed. When reading through the original postings, there is no discussion of Locking the crankshaft with the positioning plug. Either the original poster overlooked this step in his instructions or else he skipped it and was lucky. Thanks again.

 

amphicar -
If you use the tie-wrap method and just do the secondary tensioners, you DO NOT NEED TO LOCK THE CRANKSHAFT.

 

Thanks. Yes, I do understand that. However, the original post in this thread covers the process with the tools but never mentions the crankshaft lock. I think that is why the question came up several times in subsequent messages.

I did not put my xjr up on ramps before removing the valve covers. I guess I will need to put it on jack stands to get to the the crankshaft lock area.

Thanks again.

 

Post #29 in my thread

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...n-52434/page2/

Explains what I did to lock the flywheel.

 

Thanks JimmyL,

I did performed the latter. Is sounds like I would need to rent a locking kit inorder to get everything back aligned. Now when I use to lock down tool for the cam sprocket what am I aligning the too. Do I used the mark on the flywheel to obtain TDC? Will the VVT take up any slack automatically?

 

NO! The cams are NOT timed at TDC- they are timed at a position that allows the cams to turn and not crash any piston. The position is set by the "peg". It engages the flywheel through the bell housing, in the CKPS hole.

 

Don't worry about TDC. This engine is aligned differently; minimum pressure on the cams. Once the crank is aligned, peg in place or if you're feeling lucky, primary sprocket drive key straight down, align cam timing flats and lock down. The tool kit comes with the locking bars and wrenches to align the cam sprockets when you replace the secondary chains and tensioners.

 

Hi Fellas, this post is fantastic, i just took apart my jag cam covers and discoverd not only are the tensioners bad but the secondary chain is broke on the right hand side , what is then my method of fix ? how do i install the new chain and the cams must be out of whack !! this is the way i bought the car at a great deal ... any advice for a newbie Jag owner ???

 

Greta job. Now the bad news. I found the primary chain guide blades on my XK8 to be worn and cracked much like the slippers on your secondary tensioners. The primary tensioners are not subjected to the side stress like the secondary tensioners because they are mounted behind the guide blades, but they were orange from being exposed to the heat of a running engine so I replaced them as well. As a, "what the heck, while I'm in there anyway" thinking, the chains were replaced as well. Total part cost ~$850; total time ~24 working hours.

 

Hey guys , i have to do this repair myself aswell, however my secondary chain has poped off , i plan to remove the exhaust cam , set in a new chain and tensioner, now correct me if i am wrong but when i set the cam back in i will be in time as long as the cams flats are paralell with eachother and the first lobes facing eachother ?

Your comments please !!