With a broken chain you will need to lock the flex plate and cams in place with the tools, either Jaguar or constructed with the forum examples. A broken chain eliminates the chance to do the twist tie process so there is no reason to remove the cam. A degree or two in cam timing is a big deal. An example is the step to tension the driven side of the chain with the alignment which is important.

Are you planning on using a repair link chain?

 

I may be wrong but if your Jag threw the chain while it was running, your engine may well be a boat anchor as significant damage to the cylinder head would be likely.

 

TEST POINT, thank you for your guidance and expertise, i now know how to go about my repair with confidence and getting my cat back on the road !!!

 

Amphicar, i was told by the previous owner that the car was idleing in the driveway when it started to cough so it was imediately turned off and never restarted.... i hope this is true and there is no damage to the cyliders or valves and since i am not taking it completely apart, im hopeing for the best !!

i noticed that is WAS due to the plastic tensioner having broke off on top and bottom that caused the chain to get loose and being poped off by a sprocket tooth !!

 

Great Info and pics. I need to do the same job. I'll just make the tools at work. I want to replace the upper and lower tentioners, chains and guides. It looks major to me to get the timing case cover off. Can I get any help on this job?

 

The lower (or primary) tensioners rarely go bad, just the uppers (or secondaries) seem to be a problem.

How many miles on your car?

You should put your car details in your signature to make it easier for us to help you.
Vector

 

See here for info on crank pulley and timing cover removal....
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...s-tools-51211/

Hope this helps!

 

I also have to reshim my lifters. Is there a shim kit I can buy? Without Knowing what shims are in them I don't know what shims I need.

 

I have 113,000 on the engine. Best I can tell no work as been done on the engine.

 

No just individual shims from Jaguar, you'll need to measure the gaps. Engine build document should be listed in the sticky either in this forum or the XK8/R forum. This will help you instead of lots of questions...

Shims from here, again hope this helps!
Genuine Jaguar Parts and Jaguar Accessories for Classic Jaguars

Good Luck...

 

Thanks, I have alot of work to do on this engine and have a road trip planed. I was trying to avoid waiting on parts. I just I'll tear it apart and see what I need

 

If you have a Jaguar/Land Rover dealer near you, you'll have the parts in 24 hours, just mention the classic parts network when you order from them, it's worldwide and Jaguar do the shipping - I posted the link for part numbers more than anything else.

 

The problem I'm having is that I replace the secondary tensioners using the tie wrap method. I don't think I did a good job because the timing is off. I did not use lock down tool nor did I lock the crankshaft. It started when I remove the cam sprocket to install the tensioner and chain. I thought by using the tie wrap method I wouldn't need to lock the cams. I think that the cams move a little which resulted in bad timming. The car does start but the timing is clearly off. Is it possible to remove the chains, rotate the cams unitl they are flat. Re-install chains and bottom her back up. Or will I have to lock the crankshaft and cams after removing the chain? I know that a few degrees can make a big difference in the way the cat runs. But I'm hopeful that this doesn't require too much head ache. I'm sure the answer is out there

 

The idea of the tie wrap method is that you do not release the sprocket from the camshaft.
You will have to go through the alignment process now and hope you were not too far off.

 

Just so anyone reading this as instructions for doing the swap understands: You are supposed to lift the exhaust cam to change the tensioner, not remove the sprocket! That is the point of the zip tie method, so you don't change the timing.
Vector

 

The tools are cheap to rent and make the job so incredibly easy and foolproof. I am not sure why anyone would take the risk of doing the job wrong (as happened here) or snapping a cam via the zip tie method.

 

Removing the sprocket was a mistake. I think the safest way to go now is to use the crank peg, lock the cams, then proceed with the tensioner replacement.

 

Outstanding man

 

Looks like I'm in for a do-over. Can someone tell me where can I rent the lock down tools?

 

I found them on E=Bay. $75 for three week rental. The job takes about 20 hrs if you don't push too hard. That is from jack to wheels on the ground. I have some extra data on problems encountered and work arounds if you want to drop me your E address.