Thanks Tcap1047,

I look on ebay and couldn't find anything. Will look again soon. Here is my email address. stephens_ant@yahoo.com whenever you get the time would you send the additaional info. Thanks

 

tcap,

You mention awhile back that the primary spocket could be use to align the crank. By making sure the drive key in the sprocket is pointing straight down. And then turning the cam is flat and using a lock down tool to lock the cams (Right). Will I have to remove the chain from the sprocket then rotate the cams until they are flat then look them down? And once that is done install chains. What would take up the slack in the chain? I really apprecaite your help and the help of others.

 

I made one. It is just a 1 in. plate with three holes in it. the hardest part was geting the dimentions off the engine.

 

If you are replacing the chains, then yes, remove the chains. If not, bar the engine until he drive key is straight down, the cam flats may be aligned if timing has not jumped, lock them down using the wrench which comes in the tool kit to make small adjustments. The worst case scenario is a jumped chain which will require you to undo the exhaust cam saddle bolts and remove the cam to realign. Go slow! It took me 15 minutes. Loosen bolts a couple flats at a time. The cam has a lot of spring pressure on it and broken cams can happen. Turn the cam till the flats are close (use a 6" machinists rule across the flats) and reseat the cam. Again, go slow! reverse the process.

 

I made the cam locking tool and I am ready to do the upper tentioners. Question? What is the touque on the bolt. I can't find any good Info on this engine! Also if I whant to change the lower tentioner or chains I need to lock the crank. There are two access covers at the flywheel but the only machined surfaces are the crankshaft positioner sensor and the the timinig plate for it. Am I suppose to lock the crank on the bore of the sensor and the timing plate?

 

Yes, there's a special tool, a dummy sensor that fits in there and locks the starter ring gear or as you USA guys describe as a flex plate at 45 deg A.T.D.C.

The sprocket allen bolt procedure is as follows,
Apply and hold 10-15Nm (7-11lb ft)
Torque to the left with JD 217
Torque to 110-130Nm (81-96lb ft)

Hope this helps

 

If you are going to do all chains and tensioners, lock the crank as well. The timing kit I rented had the crank peg, two cam locking bars, a wrench for the exhaust cam, a wrench for the intake cam, and wedges to tension the primary chains. There is no need to loosen the sprocket bolt. It is an allen socket headed bolt. I think 10mm. I don't remember the torque off hand, but it is pretty tight.

 

OK, I went back and checked my notes. The sprocket bolt is 10mm. The torque for the sprocket blots is 115-125 Nm. If you need to align the cams while the sprocket bolts are loose, there is a place in the center of the cams where you can attach a vise grip. The crank setting peg goes in the crank sensor slot. I never was able to see the timing mark. There is a second spot which will accept the peg; be careful; it is 180 out. Check that the cam flats are at least close, then set the crank peg. Lock down the cams. Don't over tighten the bolts as the head is aluminum.

 

I just replaced the upper tentioners I locked the intake and exhaust cams before removing the cam bolt on the exhaust but both cams are off to the crank TDC The VVT is at max retard. This is with all the slack taken out of the chains on the drive side. I need help. Should I set up the exhaust flat at TDC and let the ECU fix the intake?

 

Ok, Thanks Sean B. I guess the flats don't line up at TDC. I made a plug to lock the crank. The intake is way off the exhaust is close. I'll try again tomorrow. I think the VVT is throwing the intake off.

 

Today I redid the exhaust cams timing with the crank lock in place. There is alot of tention on the primary chains when you lock down the cams. The right bank more than the left. I never changed the intake cams position. I didn't take off the timing cover so I can't get to the bolt on the VVT. Anyway it is back to the way it was. It ran OK before not great. It would make more sence if the cam timing was late (113000 mile of wear) Also the vaules are all alittle loose, .002/.003 in. from nomimal, .001/.002 out of spec. I have to take it apart again after I get shims to fix that.

 

Boomer from Boston,
Looks like I could use your help. I recently changed my upper chain tensioners on my 2000 XJ8 using the tie method. I was very careful (I thought) only to loosen and lift one cam to get the broken chain tensioner out.. which I did on each side. Now comes my issue. I got everything back in place and started the car and it had a rough idle. Can you tell me by my description If I need to re-do this installation using the timing tools?

any advice would be great!!!!

Thanks in advance

 

I am not crazy about the zip tie method if you have had a failure or if the engine has a lot of miles on it; stretched chains. At the least, once you have replaced the tensioners, bar the engine over and observe the cam flats. If all is OK, the flats of the cams should at least come close to being aligned using a 6" machinists rule. If you have an exhaust cam wrench, use it to see if the flats will align. If not, attach a vise grip to the exhaust cam and move the cam to align. If the cams don't align, you are out of spec and need to start over by pegging the crank and locking down the cams. It is possible to do this job in a day if you are not replacing the primary chains. I am a proponent of replacing them along with the primary tensioners and guides. Mine were cracked and badly worn at 65K miles.

 

I just watched a You Tube video were someone locks off the cam gears and chain with zip ties. Then un bolted cam bearing caps to free up the chain, he did this single handed while holding a camera as well. If you where to zip tie everything, could the timing move? The chain would still be locked relative to the cam gear...

 

Try this and read some posts on this forum: Let me google that for you
Vector

 

Mclarenfan:
This has been argued passionately time and time again. I have no interest in arguing either method and have done both myself, but I believe I can answer you question.

The chain tooth to chain tooth timing cannot move if you follow the zip tie method. But it might not be timed exactly right for several reasons, only one of which is very significant.
1) the timing might already have jumped
2) it might not be exactly right to begin with due to wear
3) the slipper pad on the tension side for the new metal tensioners is at a slightly different dimension than the old style. Applying pythorageon geometry indicated that the timing could be off about 1 degree for this difference, as I recall. So, is 1 degree important? I doubt it, but some jag owners are a little **** about stuff like that!

 

Sparkenzap has hit it. I did the zip tie method following a failure of a secondary tensioner. Barred the engine over and saw the left side was out of time. Took the front end of the engine off to do the entire job and was glad I did. The primary guides were badly worn and cracked. Primary tensioners are not subject to side stress like the secondary ones, but while the front cover was off, I replaced them, the guides, and the chains. Engine runs great. So, once more, if you haven't had a failure, zip method is fine, but you are in for another job 20-30K down the road.

 

WOW

what a response !!

well, its many years later, and i have only just rediscovered this forum again

as for my car,

well , she lasted for many years and i put 40k miles on her after the tensioner change, and not a rattle or issue after the day i did them

in fact i sold her six month back after six years of ownership to fund the restoration of my 1989 XJS , ( pix on the XJS forum for those interested ) , and the new owner is well smitten , and she is even better with lots of mechanical and cosmetic upgrades etc


BB

 

Thanks,

Very useful information. My 98 vandenplas just started runing rough all of a sudden. No alarm codes to work with. Finally check engine came on once, but by the time I took it down to Orileys it was out, but I read a P0172. This code is a secondary symptom of my exhaust cam sliping one cog. While trying to figure this out, I needlessly replaced all of my injectors, my mpg was in the toiled anyway, and hopefully I will reap the benifit of this over time. Check out RockAuto.com's exchange program on this. The ignition coils were needlessly replaced. If you are doing this job, Christophers foreign auto parts on ebay for a good deal on the upper tensioner kit.

 

Hello i have just recently registered with this site and I need to know how to lock the crank shaft 45 degrees before top Dead center if someone could reply back to me in regaurds to this situation I would very much appreciate it. I am in the middle of the job right now and am at a stand still, any help please reply. Thank you