I just changed my own timing chain tensioners........HOW TO
#161
Mclarenfan:
This has been argued passionately time and time again. I have no interest in arguing either method and have done both myself, but I believe I can answer you question.
The chain tooth to chain tooth timing cannot move if you follow the zip tie method. But it might not be timed exactly right for several reasons, only one of which is very significant.
1) the timing might already have jumped
2) it might not be exactly right to begin with due to wear
3) the slipper pad on the tension side for the new metal tensioners is at a slightly different dimension than the old style. Applying pythorageon geometry indicated that the timing could be off about 1 degree for this difference, as I recall. So, is 1 degree important? I doubt it, but some jag owners are a little **** about stuff like that!
This has been argued passionately time and time again. I have no interest in arguing either method and have done both myself, but I believe I can answer you question.
The chain tooth to chain tooth timing cannot move if you follow the zip tie method. But it might not be timed exactly right for several reasons, only one of which is very significant.
1) the timing might already have jumped
2) it might not be exactly right to begin with due to wear
3) the slipper pad on the tension side for the new metal tensioners is at a slightly different dimension than the old style. Applying pythorageon geometry indicated that the timing could be off about 1 degree for this difference, as I recall. So, is 1 degree important? I doubt it, but some jag owners are a little **** about stuff like that!
#162
A read thru this should help: Tmingi chain and tensioner replacement
See item "V. Crankshaft setting plug E36408:" and "W. Camshaft locking tool:"
You can also do the "zip tie method," if you are just changing the secondaries, then you don't need the tools.
I hope this helps.
Vector
#163
Vector,
I have read that "blackonyx" tensioner post a lot as I am doing my XJ8 L (waiting on a crank pulley tool now). I was debating just secondary tensioners or the whole project, but after I pulled the valve covers I saw plastic "chunks" and can see my primary guides have cracks in them (even in what little I can see of them....).
I don't have a manual with all the specs, so I have a couple questions. This site and its members have been invaluable to my "exposure" to Jaguar ownership, so anyone feel free in responding.
1) In reference to greasing the o-rings and seals - a standard bearing grease or does it matter? It seems the VVT and crankshaft are the only seals that get greased - is that correct?
2) In reference to the bolts that get "locktite" - it looks more like just a high-temp thread sealant. Which is correct?
3) My new primary tensioners say to "discard the old backing plate as they are spring tensioned and not oil pressured". Should the backing plates be discarded or does it matter? Is there any cause for concern then in the tensioner spacing from the block? I can't see as there would be if they are saying to discard them, or am I missing something??
Thanks for any replys guys.
I have read that "blackonyx" tensioner post a lot as I am doing my XJ8 L (waiting on a crank pulley tool now). I was debating just secondary tensioners or the whole project, but after I pulled the valve covers I saw plastic "chunks" and can see my primary guides have cracks in them (even in what little I can see of them....).
I don't have a manual with all the specs, so I have a couple questions. This site and its members have been invaluable to my "exposure" to Jaguar ownership, so anyone feel free in responding.
1) In reference to greasing the o-rings and seals - a standard bearing grease or does it matter? It seems the VVT and crankshaft are the only seals that get greased - is that correct?
2) In reference to the bolts that get "locktite" - it looks more like just a high-temp thread sealant. Which is correct?
3) My new primary tensioners say to "discard the old backing plate as they are spring tensioned and not oil pressured". Should the backing plates be discarded or does it matter? Is there any cause for concern then in the tensioner spacing from the block? I can't see as there would be if they are saying to discard them, or am I missing something??
Thanks for any replys guys.
#165
I rented mine from Christopher's Forrign car parts in Ocean City NJ. Jagbits will lend th free if you buy the parts from them. Good luck the job is quite easy with the correct tools.
Sent from my iPhone
On 2014-01-04, at 4:30 AM, "Jaguar Forums - Jaguar Enthusiasts Forum" <webmaster@jaguarforums.com> wrote:
Dear mclarenf1fan,
You are subscribed to the thread " I just changed my own timing chain tensioners........" by Brake buster, there have been 1 post(s) to this thread, the last poster was Ericbilt25.
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/xj-x308-xj8-xjr-27/i-just-changed-my-own-timing-chain-tensioners-4747/
These following posts were made to the thread:
************
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/xj-x308-xj8-xjr-27/i-just-changed-my-own-timing-chain-tensioners-4747/page9/#post883745
Posted by: Ericbilt25
On: 01-03-2014 08:01 PM
where can i get that tool from?
All the best,
Jaguar Forums - Jaguar Enthusiasts Forum
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Sent from my iPhone
On 2014-01-04, at 4:30 AM, "Jaguar Forums - Jaguar Enthusiasts Forum" <webmaster@jaguarforums.com> wrote:
Dear mclarenf1fan,
You are subscribed to the thread " I just changed my own timing chain tensioners........" by Brake buster, there have been 1 post(s) to this thread, the last poster was Ericbilt25.
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/xj-x308-xj8-xjr-27/i-just-changed-my-own-timing-chain-tensioners-4747/
These following posts were made to the thread:
************
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/xj-x308-xj8-xjr-27/i-just-changed-my-own-timing-chain-tensioners-4747/page9/#post883745
Posted by: Ericbilt25
On: 01-03-2014 08:01 PM
where can i get that tool from?
All the best,
Jaguar Forums - Jaguar Enthusiasts Forum
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
#166
I found it best to use the instructions on the replacement tensioners insofar as backing plates. To get the flywheel off, I packed some 1/4 nylon rope into cylinder head 1, and brought it to tdc with a 32mm socket on the crank. I also found it best to pack some rags around the sprockets to catch any metal, or the master link, cut the old chain with bolt cutters, take out the intake cam, grease with white lith, and install the cam, chain and tensioners. The cams have flat spots, level with a straight edge, I found the sweet spot is just a little past tdc, level with angle of head.
#167
Eric - It's a KTC tool that doubles as the crankshaft holder and pulley puller. The "cheapest" I found it was on Amazon. Just over $200 after shipping. I may eBay it after my use - I'm doing all chains and tensioners so I don't know when I'll ever need it again (hopefully.... haha). I got the "Deluxe timing chain kit" from Christopher's in Jersey, which obviously does not include this tool. I had all these tools lined up from a mechanic buddy, but that all fell through last minute - long story, too annoying to recount.... There may be cheaper alternatives, but I'm just trying to get the tools here so I can get this job done.
#168
Secondary Tensioners 98 XJ8
I guess you don't know until you look.
Haven't had the car for very long and don't know the service history but everything you can see on the car is mint. I didn't have what I would call timing chain noise but there is so much concern about the tensioners in the forum that I was afraid to start the car. I ordered the parts needed to replace the secondary tensionioners including the gaskets for the cam covers. The car has had the 4th generation tensioners installed and based on what I could see, all of the chains and primary guides have been replaced recently. The joint sealant at the timing chain cover and cam cover indicates that the cover has been removed and replaced.
I questioned the Jag shop to see if it was possible to inspect the existing tensioners with fiber optics to determine if they had the metal secondaries and was told that you would not be able to observe them. After removing the cover and seeing the cavity for myself I am fairly certain you would be able to get a close enough look to tell that much at least.
I have the tensioners and short bolts from Christophers (still in the bag) if anyone needs them at a reduced price.
I guess I don't have to soft pedal now.
Dean
Haven't had the car for very long and don't know the service history but everything you can see on the car is mint. I didn't have what I would call timing chain noise but there is so much concern about the tensioners in the forum that I was afraid to start the car. I ordered the parts needed to replace the secondary tensionioners including the gaskets for the cam covers. The car has had the 4th generation tensioners installed and based on what I could see, all of the chains and primary guides have been replaced recently. The joint sealant at the timing chain cover and cam cover indicates that the cover has been removed and replaced.
I questioned the Jag shop to see if it was possible to inspect the existing tensioners with fiber optics to determine if they had the metal secondaries and was told that you would not be able to observe them. After removing the cover and seeing the cavity for myself I am fairly certain you would be able to get a close enough look to tell that much at least.
I have the tensioners and short bolts from Christophers (still in the bag) if anyone needs them at a reduced price.
I guess I don't have to soft pedal now.
Dean
#169
You realllllly need to have a direct look at the tensioners, however you do it.
On my first XJ I was told the by the dealer per the vin and engine # that it had the updated tensioners, and was told by Johns Jaguar service in San Francisco that it would have had the updated tensioners already.
BUT, when I pulled the valve covers, it did NOT.
Do NOT trust anything but a direct view of the tensioners yourself.
This is too important.
On my first XJ I was told the by the dealer per the vin and engine # that it had the updated tensioners, and was told by Johns Jaguar service in San Francisco that it would have had the updated tensioners already.
BUT, when I pulled the valve covers, it did NOT.
Do NOT trust anything but a direct view of the tensioners yourself.
This is too important.
#170
Just to clarify, I understand that you need to actually look at the tensioners, so I pulled the cover and now I know. I just thought that others may be interested to know with the right optics, I believe that it is possible to take a very close look at the left bank secondary without pulling the cover.
I have found the forum helpful, thanks.
Dean
I have found the forum helpful, thanks.
Dean
#171
2000 XK8
I replaced the entire timing end (primary chains, guides, tensioners and secondary tensioners and chains) Had a secondary failure.
Belt tensioner 40NM
cam caps 10 NM
secondary tensioner 11 NM
intake cam screw 115 NM
solenoid bush carrier 25 NM
timing case 12 NM
You will find many guys changed only the secondary tensioners. I found the primary guides to be badly worn and small pieces were missing. I think they will be back in their engines in another 30-40K.
Total cost was ~$750 for parts and rented cam locks, crank set peg, and exhaust cam torqueing wrench($55 for two weeks) and made engine immobilizer and crank puller.
I replaced the entire timing end (primary chains, guides, tensioners and secondary tensioners and chains) Had a secondary failure.
Belt tensioner 40NM
cam caps 10 NM
secondary tensioner 11 NM
intake cam screw 115 NM
solenoid bush carrier 25 NM
timing case 12 NM
You will find many guys changed only the secondary tensioners. I found the primary guides to be badly worn and small pieces were missing. I think they will be back in their engines in another 30-40K.
Total cost was ~$750 for parts and rented cam locks, crank set peg, and exhaust cam torqueing wrench($55 for two weeks) and made engine immobilizer and crank puller.
#172
2000 XK8
I replaced the entire timing end (primary chains, guides, tensioners and secondary tensioners and chains) Had a secondary failure.
Belt tensioner 40NM
cam caps 10 NM
secondary tensioner 11 NM
intake cam screw 115 NM
solenoid bush carrier 25 NM
timing case 12 NM
You will find many guys changed only the secondary tensioners. I found the primary guides to be badly worn and small pieces were missing. I think they will be back in their engines in another 30-40K.
Total cost was ~$750 for parts and rented cam locks, crank set peg, and exhaust cam torqueing wrench($55 for two weeks) and made engine immobilizer and crank puller.
I replaced the entire timing end (primary chains, guides, tensioners and secondary tensioners and chains) Had a secondary failure.
Belt tensioner 40NM
cam caps 10 NM
secondary tensioner 11 NM
intake cam screw 115 NM
solenoid bush carrier 25 NM
timing case 12 NM
You will find many guys changed only the secondary tensioners. I found the primary guides to be badly worn and small pieces were missing. I think they will be back in their engines in another 30-40K.
Total cost was ~$750 for parts and rented cam locks, crank set peg, and exhaust cam torqueing wrench($55 for two weeks) and made engine immobilizer and crank puller.
I've done 2ndary tensioners on 5 cars now. One of them, my 2000 XJR, had a primary tensioner fail, so I've now changed the primaries too.
Last edited by WaterDragon; 02-20-2014 at 01:35 PM.
#173
Why could'nt you remove the cam bearing tops so as to lift the cams up from the back and tilt them forward....remove the old tensioners and install the new ones.
If you did that and did not remove the chain from the sprokets, then no need to lock them down.......just replace the bearing caps and re-torque ....?
If you did that and did not remove the chain from the sprokets, then no need to lock them down.......just replace the bearing caps and re-torque ....?
#174
Great job ! However, at my age & abilities when it comes time to have the tensioners replaced on my XK8, I'm gonna have the "man" replace mine. By your descriptions, at least I'll have an appreciation of what the Jag mechanics will go through...something I'd do if younger & inclined. Question .... can anyone tell me when it's necessary to replace the tensioners &/or the chains short of a break & engine shut-down. Or, at, how many miles should one consider replacement?
#175
#176
On this response, I am shooting from the hip.
I am in the process of buying a 2001 XK8. This car is with a dealer an there are no mainenance records. Since it is a 2001 it has, I suppose the second stage tensioners. Which I assume were not as good as the all metal third stage.
I suppose none of us want to pull the valve covers to determine condition of the upper tesioners and find no wear or cracks.
And here's the question: Would it be feasible to drill a small hole in each cover and insert a fiber optic probe and determine the condition of the tensioners? The hole closed and ready for future inspections
Owned
2 XkE'S
1 xj6
1 xj12c
And did my own maintenance
I am in the process of buying a 2001 XK8. This car is with a dealer an there are no mainenance records. Since it is a 2001 it has, I suppose the second stage tensioners. Which I assume were not as good as the all metal third stage.
I suppose none of us want to pull the valve covers to determine condition of the upper tesioners and find no wear or cracks.
And here's the question: Would it be feasible to drill a small hole in each cover and insert a fiber optic probe and determine the condition of the tensioners? The hole closed and ready for future inspections
Owned
2 XkE'S
1 xj6
1 xj12c
And did my own maintenance
#177
The car you are looking at came with the 2nd generation plastic tensioners which were every bit as good as the 1st generation. All you need to verify is that the tensioners are still plastic. If plastic, no further inspection is needed and they should be replaced.
Are you attempting to negotiate price based on tensioner replacement?
Pulling the covers is not really that big a deal as all it takes is a set of 1/4" drive sockets to include a couple extensions and a flex joint.
But, yes you could drill holes if you chose to.
Are you attempting to negotiate price based on tensioner replacement?
Pulling the covers is not really that big a deal as all it takes is a set of 1/4" drive sockets to include a couple extensions and a flex joint.
But, yes you could drill holes if you chose to.
#178
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#180