.....and I thank you in advance.

My computer is having fits, and I can't search "blackonyx" post about tensioners. I know how to do it (ZIP tie), but I need part numbers for Lincoln tensioners, bolts, secondary chain, and cam cover gaskets.

If someone has the info saved on their computer, I would very much appreciate the info, and list prices (if available).

 

I got mine from sunroadfordparts.com.
FMC 2W9Z6K254BA
FMC 2W9Z6K254CA
FMC W500301S300 bolts. I'm not certain about the bolt number. Maybe call them at 858 560 5544. Kearny Pearson Ford. The parts are for a 2001 Lincoln LS.

 

Replacing the chain using the zip tie method is sorta like committing suicide. Perhaps you might consider renting/buying the cam lock down tools.

The FelPro gasket set for the Lincoln LS '00 to '02 is available at your friendly neighborhood auto parts store or from RockAuto for less than $40.

 

Please explain the "suicide". This is the situation,.....three cams are in time. Both on the right bank, and the intake cam on the left. They are held by the primary chain (which never moved). As long as I position the left exhaust cam (the only one that's out of the car) the way that the flats align (exhaust cam flat lined up with the straight edge to intake cam), all should be in the same timing as it was before. The secondary chain on the left, I plan to open with a bicycle tool, and peen it back together, so I don't have to undo the intake cam (the "Mercedes method"). Once that side is done, I plan to do ZIP tie on the right bank, in order to replace the tensioner.

I know locking the flywheel and cams is the RIGHT way, but why do you think what I am planning is suicidal?

 

IMO the stakes are too high use anything than a Jaguar replacement chain unless you know all of the engineering details of the new or repaired chain...and that would mean using the lockdown tool to change the chain and reset the timing.

Remember, in the 4.2 Jaguar went to a sturdier chain design...to me that means the 4.0 chains did not have a lot of design margin.

 

I AM planning to buy the new Jag secondary chain (OEM for 4.0L), ....I just want to open it (and peen it back together, once I have the cams aligned)) so I don't have to undo the intake cam. If I am not undoing the intake cam, she should still be in time (held in the original position by the primary chain), or am I badly missing something?

 

I've done it, more than once- not a problem. On my Mercedes it was the only way to put the timing chain on, and there were no reports of failure. I also have not heard of any of our chains snapping without "help" (ie the slipper coming loose and lodging between the gear and chain.)

 

That is the whole purpose of the cam lock down tools.

The Jaguar specifications for cam alignment includes a tool to tension the chains with the cam flats locked down which, I assume, were written to address a degree or two of alignment.

The left side cams are very nearly aligned at rest so what is a degree or two between friends?

 

I fully understand how the lock down tools work. My point is,.....right bank IS in time (as it was before), and the left bank intake cam is in time as well. All one has to do, is align the left bank exhaust cam flat, with the intake cam flat, using a straight edge. I don't think the error can be made. The difference between the teeth on the sprocket is WAY more than just one degree. It should be pretty clear on which tooth the chain needs to sit.

Anyway,.....I thank you for your concern and opinion. I will proceed with my plan, and report back. I have full confidence in dsnyder's method (he's been there, and done that, few times over). What's the worst that can happen? I'd be a degree (or two!) off, and she'll run like crap. I can drive it to someone to time her correctly if needs to be (unlikely). If the valves are undamaged (as they are) after the chain failure (and MULTIPLE attempts to start her afterwards with inop exhaust cam - at least six times!), I doubt that I will damage the valves this time, even if I'm a tooth off (which I shouldn't be using the straight edge, and a clinometer).

People also tried to convince me that there is NO WAY that the valves are undamaged, after the complete shutdown of one cam, and it turns out that all cylinders read 120PSI (undamaged valves) in the compression test. If I listened to my mechanic, I would've junked perfectly good engine, and spend 2K to replace it.

 

This means your valves were not broken and no piston destroyed? That is very good news. Your approach should work, then. For two bills, lot cheaper than a new engine . . . IMHO.

 

It's going to be about 3-4 bills total I think, but still a GREAT news. I don't know how come that the exhaust valves are undamaged though. Based on everything I've read on these engines, there is not enough clearance between the pistons, and the open valves, when the piston is in TDC. IF the valves stayed open (like in the chain/tensioner failure situation), and the engine operates, pistons WILL come in contact with at least two valves. Common knowledge is that if the chain jumps two teeth, the valves are gone. I have no idea how many teeth mine was off (looked like a LOT, because the flats were WAY out of alignement), but maybe the flat misalignement is not the indication of the cam moving more than one tooth. Maybe because of the angle, the misalignement looks greater than it really is.

In any case, the compression gauge doesn't lie. 120PSI (even across the bank) indicates a very healthy engine. I was told that this engine comes out of the factory (brand new) with 130PSI or so. If it went down to 120 after 90K miles, it will take another 180K (or a bit less) to get below 100PSI (and I've heard of some that are in the 90s, and still running good).

I can't work on her this weekend, but come Monday, she will get the parts, and my schedule permitting, I'll button her up early next week.

Thanks to all that got involved in these threads. ALL opinions are welcome, and solutions to most problems are usually found by brainstorming.

IF someone has the part number for the secondary timing chain from Jaguar, I'd appreciate it.

 

I bought my tensioners from Christopher's

]JAGUAR, LINCOLN items in CHRISTOPHER'S FOREIGN CAR PARTS store on eBay!

Price was $158 plus shipping, but I did not replace the gaskets (when I pulled the cam cover to see which gen I had, I discovered that if I fit the gasket carefully back in the slot it worked perfectly). Christopher also has chains.

Jack, locally, was able to find the new tensioners down the street at the neighborhood Lincoln dealer. Saved shipping, time, and about $30 bucks more since he was in the used car business.

Since the left chain broke -- at the juncture? (if so, maybe it can be saved and reused with a new chain snap - the old part is in the sump!) -- I would tie up the left side, test to see if the engine starts and runs, and then do the right side, including a new chain if the left one broke mid chain and not at the juncture.

There is a great Youtube on changing out the primary, secondaries, chains and water pump -- useful mostly for showing the mechanics underneath the covers. I failed to save it; but I will see if I can rediscover it.

 

The chain IS mangled, I need a new one. I'll get the tensioners and chain from Ford, and gaskets from NAPA (or similar). Why do you said to tie up the left side, and see IF she runs? (I understand not wasting time on the right if she doesn't run, but why shouldn't she?)

Once all is closed and buttoned up (except plugs), I'll drop some oil into cylinders (just in case), coat the walls with the starter, and put the plugs in.

She should be just fine.

 

I think so; but to not waste time, do the left and be sure it works. As you note elsewhere time is what us old folks are short on.

The pistons kept moving up and down, but the valves, literally, stopped moving except for a few seconds of inertia: by all rights, some valves should have been open (down) when the moving pistons were on upstroke (a stroke of luck nothing got damaged -- I have a problem with luck!). 120 psi is a really good indicator that no valve or stem was busted since they apparently are sealing, nor was a piston domed. But maybe bent -- which toasts the head, and maybe the rods and bearings. Tie it off (don't forget to get the new bolts for the tensioners, they are different), pull the fuel pump relay to charge the tensioner with oil, load the plugs, put back the relay, and pray.

Youtube as promised:
Best

 

There is a guy on eBay selling chains with a removable link, like the old bicycle chains with a slip on holder. I wouldn't want to have to peen a chain link in situ. You must be lucky if your valves are okay. Maybe the pistons just "kissed" them back up since there was no chain resistance. .

 

There's a thought -- but the resistance would be the cam lobes. Once the chain breaks the cam may be able to be moved by upward pressure on the valves, geometry has to be perfect -- if nothing bent, it is pure luck, which I will take (luck is what makes Admirals and Generals who are useless in war) if physics and smarts are shorted.

 

@Dan, I'd pay attention to what Tom Test Point says,

Once you have successfully aligned and installed the tensioners, the VVT will activate and throw the timing off - WITHOUT the correct locking tools, 100% - I've seen the damage from this too.

You do the job right and it's 100% if not it's risky at best and I wouldn't attempt it.
The flex/timing lock, the cam locking tools and the cam bolt tensioning tool can be loaned from members on here.
I'd refresh all chains, tensioners and guides, this means the correct crank pulley puller and removal of the timing cover.
Get all gaskets from Jaguar/Ford as non oem are rubbish.

Any info or progress with finding a replacement head(s) or engine?

 

Am I missing something??? How in the world are you going to do a ZIP TIE method repair on a car with a broken chain?

And, even if you could, it would be a bad idea since the previous repair MIGHT have resulted in bad alignment due to a stretched chain.

 

Thank you all for showing interest in this thread, Let me address some questions.

I did find the head, or the whole motor, if I want it. At this point (after compression reading of 120PSI), I don't think I need either.

As far as ZIP tie method. I thought this was clear from my previous posts, but apparently not. The side with the broken chain CAN NOT be fixed with ZIP tie. I know that. The side that's intact (driver's side USA) can. No doubt about that.

The broken side I envision like this:

As the exhaust cam is already removed, the chain is purchased, and open (using the tool they have in the bycicle shops for the biking folks that go way out into the mountains, and have to have this gadget with them), and slipped over the intake sprocket. The new tensioner is bolted and torqued, but it's "safety"is not removed at this time (leaving the tensioner retracted to provide the room). The exhaust cam is laid into it's bearings and bolted down.The breaker bar (or similar) is inserted into the slot at the end of the cam (I assume the slot is there for that, or similar purpose), and the cam is rotated to the position that the flat alignes with the flat on the intake cam (using the straight egde, clinometer with the level, or just a "torpeedo level"). Once they are aligned (and kept in place with pressure on the breaker bar, the helper slips the chain under the exhaust sprocket, and joins it at the top. Once the chain is joined together (before peening it), the pressure on the breaker bar can be released.

At that point, one torques down the cam bearings, releases the safety on the tensioner, and peens the chain in situ, using the same tool for the bicycle chain. Once the breaker bar is removed from the end of the cam, the cam will try to move, but being connected to the intake cam by the chain (and that one being in the original position held by the primary chain), the movement should not matter.

Since the both cams are now connected with the chain, it shouldn't matter if ANYTHING moves.

At that point, one could close her up, and start it. But since the valve cover is already open on the driver's side, I will ZIP tie the exhaust cam sprocket to the chain (in two places), unbolt the exhaust cam, lift it up as much as possible, and remove the tensioner. I will fiddle the new tensioner in place, and torque it down. Since the exhaust sprocket is tied to the chan, the original relation between the cams is not disturbed (and this was explained and documented on this forum many times before), and the timing is still at the same time as before.

Once both sides are closed, I will start it, and find out IF the timing is off. If it will be, it will be only slightly off (running rougher), but can be driven. At that point, I will drive it to the Jag dealer, and tell them to time it.

So what do you guys think I am missing here? Feel free to voice your concerns, it can only help. I am not going to rush this, and every thought that you might have, will help my decision process.

If you know someone that is willing to loan the lock down tools, I'd appreciate the info. Also, if you see anything on Ebay (or elsewhere), like chains, tensioners, gaskets, whatever......drop me a link. I will go on Ebay right now, and look. But if more eyes are involved, the better.

Thanks again.

As far as "what happened"..........How is it possible that the inop exhaust cam did not force the valves into the contact with the pistons? You said "it's possible that the pistons kissed the valves closed". Since the cam was unable to move AT ALL (and I tried to move it with the breaker bar, before I undid the bearings), I don't see how the valves could be "kissed closed". The chain was bunched up under the sprocket, and that cam was siezed in place TIGHT.

When she refused to go (the day it happened), I tried to start her at least six times after the failure (kneejerk reaction, and I should know better!!), and she RAN briefly with the gas half down, sputtering and caughing. Died as soon as I would move my foot on the gas pedal.

With 120PSI compression reading, I am sure nothing is damaged, but I still don't understand how is this possible! The only explanation I can find (based on my automotive knowledge), is that the exhaust cam siezed in place at the split second when all exhaust valves were closed! I am not even sure that all eight of them ARE closed at the same time in the cycle, but let me tell you.........before I close her up, I WILL investigate. I will turn the engine by hand and observe the behavior of the exhaust valves. I just NEED to know. IF two of them are open at any given time, I will die not knowing what could've happened, and how come they are undamaged. IF there IS a split second of time when all of them are closed, and IF the cam siezed at that precise time,.....either I am the luckiest ******* on Earth (going to buy a lottery ticket which I never do!), or my Garfield in not "just a car", but some entity that has it's own will (kinda like Christine!). That really bugs me. I am not superstitious in the least (or religious), but maybe I should rethink my ways after this?

 

agree all. Cheaper than a new engine with the incredible labor that entails. Worth a shot, in my book.

Go for it. Wish I could be there to help.