Hello all, I have recently purchased a 2001 Jaguar XJR that has been sitting for 7 years. The body is falling apart from rust, it doesn't really have any rear brake lines anymore, rats got into the main engine wiring harness, and the car now doesn't want to start, surprise surprise.




After a decent bit of work, I've fixed the wiring and the brakes, drained the old gas, and replaced both fuel pumps. After doing this, the car actually fired up, but I didn't realize that the fan had been pushed into the front of the engine, so when it fired, it started making horrible grinding noises from the front end pulleys. It ran for just a couple seconds before I shut it off. I got the fan pulled back into place, but now the car doesn't fire.
I've verified that the fuel rail holds 45 psi when keyed to run, so my best guess if that the injectors are now clogged with debris in the fuel system. Looks like I have to pull the supercharger to get to the injectors, but I believe the tensioner is seized. I can get a ratchet on it, but when I turn clockwise, the bolt starts to move with enough force (for the sake of my own sanity, I tried the counterclockwise, and it does the same thing).
So, I'm asking for opinions on the best next steps. Should I pull the radiator and fan, cut the belt, replace the tensioner, and continue on? Should I just dump seafoam into the tank? Is there something I'm missing? I also want to say that the job doesn't need to be done right, it just needs to be done. I plan to run the car in the next Gambler 500 because again, this car is beyond ever being properly road worthy.

 

Until your last sentence, I was going to ask if the junk yard would buy it back for $350? If that's a smash up derby, then that SC will get hot, plus that radiator isn't exactly big enough for such an event and the temp gauge will be your enemy.

The tensioner bolt undoes counterclockwise. Spray it with some PBblaster or unless your into hacking mode, some fire wrench and work it back and forth...spray it again.
But from the sounds of it you may need to replace the whole arm. Though, for your intentions, I'd just get a used one from a yard for a couple bucks.

If it comes down to it, knock the head off, pull the arm off and spray the threads with PBblaster and let it soak. Then you can either put a set of good Vise Grips on it or file a flat spot on both side and use the Vise Grips. A little fire wrench wouldn't hurt, but be lite with it. Be sure to try to tighten it a bit first to break the corrosion.

 

Only the bolt for the pulley of the accessory belt tensioner is left thread, all other bolts for the tensioners and pulleys have normal thread.

 

If your worried about what highhorse said about overheating, I’d pull the thermostat, cut the 4 supporting arms and gut the center of the thermostat and stick it back in. If you left it out all together, then the aluminum thermostat cover would probably just leak since it’s just 2 bare aluminum surfaces unless you RTV it and let it sit overnight to cure. You could also wire it up so the fans will be on low or high at all times when the key is on.

The only concern is that the front end is already heavily damaged. You’re going to need to reinforce the front of the radiator. One little tap is all that it needs to push the radiator out into the engine again and down you go. Just something to think about..

 

Thanks all for the replies. The Gambler 500 is an on-road and off-road rally for cars that cost ~$500, so it's not a demolition, picture it more along the lines of a stock honda civic someone put mud tires on trying to do the Rubicon Trail.
This picture should sum it up.

I've thought about cooling, and I like the idea of putting the fans on a switch, or just having them run all the time, and I'll likely still reinforce the front end, but all of that will wait until it reliably runs.

By the way the belt is run, it looks like turning it clockwise should release the tension, but again, the bolt very slowly will start to spin. Sounds like I'll need to disassemble the front end to get to it with a torch if I go that route. Believe it or not, the only non-cosmetic part that was damaged in the front end was the intercooler which I've since replaced.

Now, I imagine the car should be able to fire by spraying carb cleaner into the throttle body? Only reason I haven't tried is that I'm currently quarantining for another week, so I haven't had a second set of hands. If the car fires with the carb cleaner, then I know I have to pull the injectors.

 

Wow, good luck, this will be definitely interesting, ....trying to make a 5500lb car into a rally car? For the heat, remove the bumper to get more air flow and throw some rigid mesh to protect the radiators. An Ace or similar hardware, carries this.
I fabbed this on my corvette when I replaced the front end, it was an obvious stone catcher area.

 

4100, much less with all the speed holes

 

after the rally I’ll buy it. Or if your interested I’ve got something that might fair a little better in this rally. Old r107 sl just needs the fuel system put back together but it will start right now with fluid

 

I have one parted out if there is anything you can't find I may have it. I have fuel rails, injectors, tanks, pipes etc. Presumably you have a spark? Maybe after you fired it up another wiring fault emerged? Are the plugs wet or dry? You might want to pump some fuel out and see if it has water in it. Maybe the fuel in the line was OK but there was water in the tank. That would allow to run for a short time only.

 

I may need a supercharger belt tensioner, but I'll see if it fires on some carb cleaner. The fuel system up to the injectors at least should be fine, I drained all the old gas out and put in fresh when I replaced the pumps. I'm waiting until I can get a second hand to help me since if it fires on carb cleaner, then I know it has to be injectors. If not, then it could be spark (I've not messed with the plugs yet, I'm just going one step at a time in order of least effort).

 

Personally I doubt it is the injectors, if it ran at first they weren't blocked due to the vehicle standing so long and the fuel filter should protect them from tank debris. Have you changed it? Just because you have pressure at the rail doesn't mean you have enough flow? Maybe be sure to watch pressure actually while cranking. But checking with starter fluid will certainly tell you a lot. My money is on the mice!

 

I didn't change the fuel filter since it ran after the pump replacement, and due to the rust, I'm not confident I can replace it without breaking the line fittings. Pressure at the rail remains 45 PSI while cranking, and I've gone through every underhood wire and I don't see any more signs of damage. It could be something with the spark, but I'll figure that out in time.

 

Hows the rims looking for 4 asteroid rims to buy

 

The rims are actually in really good shape, I think two of them (I have 5) have minor rash. I actually will be selling them once I get my hands on some fourth gen V6 camaro wheels to fit 33"s on.

 

33's???...you won't clear the turning radius, it'll take 40 acres to make a turn. You can cut the fender wells to make the diameter fit, but you can't cut the frame. Now you have a hoopty.

 

If you need the fans to run all the time just jump the AC pressure switch.


I don’t know if they fixed this by the time the AJ28 came out but shutting the engine off after a couple seconds is the classic recipe for flooding/bore wash.

 

Good point, maybe it is just flooded...
As per the tires, I figured turning might be an issue, but I may have a ($25 on marketplace) solution.

Now again, I should reiterate, that I do actually love these jags, but this one's only possible future otherwise is getting parted out and junked, so it's getting sent off with a bang....then parted out.

 

OK, OK....LOL, go for it brother. That is one massive spacer....cheers.