Every time I cold start/First start the car Its always shakes a little for a bit and when I start it warm it is like it is about to misfire. But every single time i fill up at a gas station it idles sooo bad. Idk what it is. Spark Plugs new. Changed 2 coils. Ran lots of cleaner and BG44k. I dont know what to do next.

 

Have you checked your MAF lately, always worth a shot.

 

checked it this morning. By checking i mean taking the plug off and trying to start and just stalled out.

 

If you haven't cleaned it since you have had the car, it's always good to thoroughly clean the MAF, they sale cans of MAF cleaner @ Auto Zone,Pep Boys etc.

 

cleaned it december of last year. i will again

 

Fuel filter?

 

Check fuel trims, both when bad and when good. Need an OBD tool with live data - quite cheap.

 

all of the above plus, Clean the throttle bore and plate; check the air tube from the filter housing (clean filter?); make sure everything is tight. Check that the MAF sensor is properly seated without bent pins; is the temp sensor (plugs into the crossover pipe) bad? Fuel pressure at the Shraeder valve?

Really need the codes and long term fuel trim to rule out oxygen sensors and other concerns.

 

I will check everything tomorrow. I have ELM327 so I will check codes and stuff.

 

the first pic was a cold start. the last pic was when i put in reverse and it acted up a bit when i put it back to park.

 

^.^

 

It is a pity you did not run it longer, with the engine fully warmed up.

I see the following (for others to chime in):

- STFT and LTFT pretty good at start up, but I am not sure this came from the base values of zero after a 'hard reset', or from the previous shut-down,

- STFT and LTFT going badly up after some minutes, probably indicating a leak,

- MAF readings rather constant, a tat on the low side actually.

You can check the MAF further at 4 set RPM conditions, the values for a 4.0L N/A are somewhere on this forum or the net.

To be continued ~~

 

i will do a full warm test tomorrow. a 20 min drive would be sufficient and the put it in park and test? what should the temp be in Celsius? and I did the Throttle position test, foot to floor and i got 80% throttle

 

-MAF: I found and enclose the MAF settings for checking at various settings.

-Temperature: your engine should run at some 95C (~190-195F) at normal conditions.

-If your throttle is off, you should do 2 things in the right order:

1. Under the bonnet, adjust the cable at the TB is such way that there is a tiny, tiny bit of play. Your OBD2 should read ~2 degrees opening at warm idle if I remember well, and should NOT be influenced by the cable tension.

2. Then read the OBD2 again, the throttle valve opening should read 90 degrees.
If not, you have to adjust the knob under the accelerator pedal.
WATCH IT: on 1998 models the knob is just a knob, and can be turned like a nut on the stud.
However, on later models, the knob is actually a kick down switch, with wires under the carpet.
You will need to pull the carpets away, disconnect the connector, turn the knob as required, then reconnect and check till you got the 90 degrees.

 

this is my video. A lot of slack?

 

Temp normal

 

It seems to be a bit loose, but it is hard to judge.

My advice; to solve your problem, you really need to work methodically, not just guessing.
Most of procedures are in the workshop manual, many extracts are on line, easy to google.

Find the reading of the TB valve opening on your OBD reader, it reads in degrees.
Then you will see (and not guess) if the cable is too tight.
You can adjust the cable by cutting that tie-rap, then lift that square block out of the bracket.
Turn it left or right on the cable to loosen or tighten, put it back to check your reading.
Tight it just so much that the reading on your OBD reader start to increase, then loosen the square 90 or 180 degrees.

If you have done that, you can move over to the accelerator pedal adjustment.

 

how is my fuel trim readings?

 

I see the LTFT going up over time, they tend to be on the higher side.
I also see some compensation by means of the STFT, but it is hard to determine under what exact conditions.

My idea:
- do the cable at the TB
- set the pedal at 90%
- check and report the MAF values for the 4 conditions (the MAF is suspecious at least)
- continue from there

 

Sure looks like an air leak. The LTFTs are too high. Examine the air tube from filter box to throttle body. If you have a propane torch, open the gas valve and run it around the manifold and throttle body (DON'T light the torch). You will be looking for a change in idle.

Rough starting, tho: maybe a bad temperature sensor? If it is warm and it is stuck showing cold, it will overly enriched the starting mixture; whereas if it is cold and it showing warm, it will be too lean. Maybe disconnect it at the crossover pipe and see what the effect is.

I, too, suspect a bad or dirty MAF (maybe pins not aligned?). Did you clean it again? A replacement on Amazon Prime is not too excessive.

The slack on the throttle cable does not appear to be too much (I kept mine a little tighter, but not much more).

I am less inclined towards a fuel pump problem (unless it cuts out while driving). Fuel filter shouldn't cause a starting issue or those high LTFTs; but I always feel a need to change the fuel filter (and air filter) more frequently than the Driver's manual suggests.

I wonder if part of the problem might be gas that has gone bad from sitting all Winter? Grabbing straws.