Hello All. I apologize for being away most of the summer. Life has gotten away from me. I'm sure I've missed a lot, and I wish I could've been here to help out, but, I know there are a lot of members here that are more than willing to help. I'll try to be around more often.
Having said above. It appears that I've lost the secondary timing chain tensioner on my right bank. My Son was driving, while I was out of town. I thought I was clear of this issue as engine had been replaced, and serial number (0305201613) is new enough to be out of the danger zone.
Engine sounds like a popcorn popper in the right bank.
Current codes:
P0172: Fuel too rich bank 1 (passenger)
P0300: Random/Multiple Cylinder Misfire Detected
P1316: Undefined code
P1111(pd): Undefined code
Questions: Would the dealer have done a short bock change out under warrenty instead of the whole engine? Seems a mute point I know, just wondering. I need to pull valve covers and have a look. Too hot all spring & then the rains, Son not in a hurry, and work load has doubled last month or so, with Boss moving on.
I recall seeing a post about a vendor who had a complete rental tool kit along with instructions, parts etc., that worked out very well for one of our members. Could that member please provide information. Otherwise, I will search and find.
My Son did drive it home 18 miles (in limp home mode), and I did start it to hear noise for less than 10 seconds or so. No smoke, ran pretty smooth actually, except for noise. Assuming it's the tensioners, should I just replace, then run a compression check to see if serious damage was done to valves or pistons, or go ahead and remove head. I really don't rellish the idea of removing the head.
If the chain just jumped a tooth or two, how much damage could this have caused, how hard to time the 2 cams to each other?
I know this is long & I do appreciate you taking the time to read and reply. It still may be awhile before I get into, as I have to work on it outside, and winter is just aroud the corner.
As a side note, my other Son just had his tensioners on his 2004 5.4 F150 go out. Would've thought Ford would have seen this coming.
Seriously, thank you for reading & replying. I will be around more. I miss my time on here helping when & where I can.
Ralph

 

Skip one tooth, engine runs rough. Skip two teeth, damage quite possible. Skip three teeth, doom!

 

Hello Boomer,

Thanks for bouncing back. You are one of the dozen or so regulars that I could count on seeing replies from to other members problems. I hear what you're saying. I've torn a 1967/289 ford, 1970/340 plymouth(sp), and countless diesels from little 2 cylinder Listers to V16 Paxman Valenta's down to parade rest. But, as I've aged, I sure don't look forward to pulling those heads. Of course, if there's piston damage, it may be for sale for parts. I'll stay in touch.
Ralph

 

Ralf, no need to unbolt the head - there's a quick method of changing the upper tensioners, search for the "zip tie method" on here. First off it's a case of removing the cam covers and hand turn the engine to check all four cam flats line up. If they don't, it's skipped. You'll be able to re-align as your changing the upper tensioners with the method mentioned.
Tools, you can either make them or hire/buy them. But the first one is the locking tool that goes in place of the crank flywheel sensor (underneath, back of engine) this sets the engine at the correct place to check your cam flats are aligned.
Report back with what you find once the cam covers are off...Good Luck!

 

I know these posts about tensioners are a dime a dozen around here. But, I have an update & questions. I finally got around to pulling the valve cover off today. And surprise!, the nylon bottom shoe of the tensioner had broken off the metal shoe. It does appear that one of the cams has skipped a tooth or possibly two.
1? Which cam? If I have crankshaft in proper position & locked. Should it matter, to re-align, can I just partially install locking plate on inlet cam, loosen exhaust cam gear and rotate back to align flat and tighten locking bar/plate? I suppose if the crank is in proper position and inlet cam is off, I could improvise somehow to get flat into position.
2? I've read a lot of posts and there's plenty of disagreement regarding the variable timing and whether or not you need to 'unwind' or otherwise manipulate this as part of the process. Has there been any consensus on this issue? If everything is locked down, I'm not sure I understand the need.....
3? At the rear of the intake cam, there is a 4 lugged piece that rest against the end of the cam shaft. The camshaft also hase 4 notches in it. Mine does not match up. In other words, the lugs on the spare piece do not rest in the slots on the camshaft. Should they? Or is this something tied to the variable timing?
I'm always willing to listen to any advice. This forum has save my tail a few times.
Boresnake is next weekend to check valves & pistons before I go any further.
Thanks again.

 

1 Half way along the cam there are raised notches that enable movement with grips. These 'shoulders' are to reposition the cam in the correct place.
2 VVT is hydraulically controlled, if there's no oil pressure it reverts to base setting, so no need to do anything on it.
3 These are reluctors for the cam position sensor, leave them alone.

 

At this point I would hand crank the engine to align, as best possible, the cam flats at the front end of the cams. The correct alignment for the right side is evenly and slightly down to the inside. That is caused by the valve spring pressure on the cam lobes. The left side should be almost perfectly aligned.

If you find that either side does not meet that criteria it would be best of acquire the Jaguar special tools and do this correctly. A degree or two will make a difference. I cannot imagine doing this by 'eye'

The idea is to have the cams flats aligned and held firm with the driven side of the chains taut and then tighten the exhaust cam sprocket nut.

 

Sean & test point,
I understand and agree with replies. I will be going at a slow bell, winter here and no garage space......I plan on making a piece of flat bar to lock down cams as mentioned on related thread. I presume the engine rotation is clockwise looking from the front? Also, my VVT has an electrical connection going to it. Is this for monitoring only? I would've though perhaps a signal from computer would've changed timing.....but what do I know anymore. We're way beyond caburetors and distributers w/points.
Thanks for the insight.

 

Yes, engine rotation is clockwise from the front.

The VVT valve has wires from the ECM which control the oil pressure which controls the VVT.

 

The "Uwindnd" you refer to is simply the matter of assuring the VVT is at its non advanced position. Supposedly, there is a spring to take it there, but you need to make sure you have not rotated it while tightening it to the cam. The procedure in the manual assures this by having you put a counterforce with the pin spanner.

 

Hello All. Well I finally had a look into all the cylinders today with a bore scope. My intent was to rule out terminal damage before proceeding with just the upper tensioner & chain replacement. All looked well. I realize valves can be bent by .oo1 not be noticeable, and loose compression, but I'll cross that bridge after tensioner replacment. I intend to purchase the kit from Christophers Foreign Auto that some from here have used.
Is there any negative feedback on this kit or the use of secondary chains with removable link for this purpose? I really don't feel up to getting into the primary chains as well. Also, I've viewed the you-tube video's by mustangtyson (great video by the way, kudo's to tyson), and I am wondering if the chain tensioner tool is needed to pre-load the secondary chain or if this is for use when replacing primary chains.....? If it's needed for secondary chains, could you not very carefully release the secondary tensioner before you torque down the exhaust cam gear to pre-load this chain....? And no, I haven't read JTIS, but will review shortly, I bet the answer is there.
I know getting her to fire after all this is another matter, stale gas, dry cylinder walls, etc. One thing at a time though.
Don't be shy, let me know what you think. As always, thanks for reading.

 

In an effort to wrap up this thread. Work was completed today. Car is running great so far. Only skipped one tooth on passenger side exhaust cam, when tensioner failed. Posted results on sister thread "Secondary Timing Chain Replacement". My thanks to all who have posted and responded to my questions. This is a great site!