XJ XJ8 / XJR ( X308 ) 1997 - 2003

Inner Wheel Arch Rust Problem

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  #1  
Old 11-05-2014 | 02:54 AM
chris1964's Avatar
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Question Inner Wheel Arch Rust Problem

Guys,

I may have made a mistake attempting to resurrect Richard Thomas’ excellent but old post (https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...t-87304/page3/). Hopefully starting a new one may generate some help please, so here goes….

A while ago I spent many hours tracing and rectifying a number of electrical & ABS glitches with the help of this forum, and recently decided to have the car MOT’d and enjoy some late autumn fun on the road. Unfortunately, the MOT tester wielding a bloody big screwdriver found he could easily push it through a number of places around to rear of the front wheel arch and along the sill into the inner sill void. In the testers opinion this rot was affecting the stability of car and promptly failed it.

The areas affected are similar but not as extensive as experienced by Nurquhar in his previous post (https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...igating-79653/) and believe I have enough confidence in tackling these repairs myself.

However, the reason for seeking advice is a result of my findings having removed the plastic wheel arch liners and outer wings to enable better access to work on the above mentioned rot. During this exercise I was horrified to see what initially appeared to be a rather large ‘blister’ on the inner wing above and slightly to the right of the sub-frame v-mount. This time I got my own big screwdriver and hammer out and within a few minutes exposed a hole in the structure approx. 75mm wide x 50mm high as can be seen in the photos.

I’m of the opinion that my problem is nowhere near as extensive as Richard Thomas’ XJ8 but is anyone able to offer some advice on the following questions please?

1. Clearly this is (or was once upon a time) a significantly strengthened box section providing the structural support for the sub-frame. I’ve used an endoscope to inspect inside the box void and the rot for some reason has only attached one side. Would anyone agree that if I remove the shock absorber & brake line, cut back to good shiny metal then weld a plate over the hole constitute as a suitable repair. I have nothing but admiration for Richard’s most ambitious solution to his particular circumstance, but I’m hoping for a slightly less ambitious solution without stripping the front suspension.
2. The sheet metalwork at this point appears to be three separate layers. Can anyone concur with this? If so, any idea what thickness each layer is?
3. If the above is correct I can’t think of a way to weld three new plates over the hole. Any advice would be welcome.
4. If my thoughts above are shared, do you think a section of 2mm mild steel shim would suffice?

Incidentally, Although I can’t be 100% sure, I believe the cause of this problem is a very poor sheet metal joint between the inner wing and shock absorber top housing which allows water to simply run down the wheel arch and collect in the box section void with nowhere to go. I've tried to show this gap (approx. 2mm) in a photo but unfortunately it may not be very obvious. Admittedly, this doesn't explain why only one side of the box section has rotten! But worth checking in case this is a common manufacturing fault.

Thank you in advance of any responses for maintaining a very interesting and informative forum.

Regards

Chris
 
Attached Thumbnails Inner Wheel Arch Rust Problem-hole-angle-1.jpg   Inner Wheel Arch Rust Problem-hole-angle-2.jpg   Inner Wheel Arch Rust Problem-gap-viewed-above.jpg  

Last edited by chris1964; 11-05-2014 at 03:00 AM. Reason: Forgot to add photos!
  #2  
Old 11-05-2014 | 04:16 PM
sheddist's Avatar
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That rusty area of chassis leg is not uncommon, excactly for the reasons you stated. There are 3 thicknesses of steel in there, so whatever replaces them should add up to at least the same thickness. When I did mine, I used 3 thicknesses of 2mm. No messing, and plug welded between them as well as seam welded each to the surrounding metal. It is much easier with the front subframe removed!
 
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Old 11-05-2014 | 05:05 PM
chris1964's Avatar
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Hi Sheddist,

Many thanks for your advice.

I agree that the task of plating and welding would be made easier is the sub-frame was removed but this sounds like a daunting task in its self.

When you get time would you please explain the procedure you used to maintain the 'plate layering' that occurs at this point of the bodywork. I assume one carefully cuts back each one using a disc cutter to form a kind of stepped hole in good metal? But your advice from experience would be gratefully received.

Regards

Chris
 
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