2001 XJR 144K miles. After driving and putting the car into park there is a periodic sound coming from the gearbox area. Sounds like vacuum or solenoid, on/off sound.. "pssheew pssheew" every few odd seconds. This is a video another member posted that was never answered. Please advise, I really appreciate it, as I just bought this car and hope it's not a major issue.

https://youtu.be/5SMXrGR_kSo

Thanks again, J

 

I’ve not heard that one before. Is there any codes in the engine and transmission? My next step would be to check the transmission fluid level and condition.

 

No codes at all.. drives and shifts good. I plan to drain the trans and change the filter and fluid. Sounds electronic, like some kind of switch or possible solenoid

 

Hmmmm... that's a new one for me.

 

Try putting it in sport mode and see if the noise stops. If so, I have the same thing on my car.

 

I will test with the sport mode on, thanks for the tip! I have decided I am going to go ahead and replace the conductor plate and connector to make sure everything is fresh again and see if the sound persists. I will be using the FCP Euro kit with Pentosin ATF 134

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/mer...ce-kit#reviews

If anyone has experienced this I would still appreciate your input.. Thanks again everyone!

 

Low fluid, that's a pump noise, crack on with the service and don't forget to pick up a Mercedes dip stick tool for level checks!

 

You may also find you have a very occasional hard shift when pulling away. I've had situations where I drive a few miles, park and then continue my journey and the first shift will be like a kick in the back. The transmission will stay in first gear to higher revs and it feels like it's locked in gear and won't free wheel. Only happens with the first shift, once it changes it's fine and it is very occasional. It may not be connected to the noise but seemed like a pressure/solenoid issue that could create both symptoms. It happens so infrequently that I can't tell if sport mode solves the hard shift but it immediately stops the noise for me.

I did the service and changed the connector without solving the problem. Wish I'd changed the connector plate while I was in there. I haven't had the hard shift in a while but changing the connector plate is on my to do list. Please report back with the outcome.

 

Maybe this is an opportunity to upgrade your ‘defective’ shift solenoids to the blue top AMG ones? 😄😄

 

Thanks again everyone! The low fluid / pump noise does make sense. I wonder if this is the original fluid since I don't have a record of it from the original owner. I won't be driving it again until I get this transmission service done, followed by rear diff, coolant spill and fill with oil change.

Any tips for removing the black security cap off of the dipstick tube? Looks like the locking clip top is already broken off but it doesn't seem to want to come off too easy, just don't want to drop plastic bits down the tube thanks!
I'm assuming wrap a rag around it and grab it with pliers and yank. I have a new cap and lock coming with the kit.

Here are some informative videos on the contactor plate service for anyone planning on it.
Quick Video:

More In-Depth Video / Valve Body Overhaul at 1:07:45

Thanks again everyone! I really appreciate all of your help!

*Does anyone have a source and part numbers for the upgraded AMG blue top solenoids? FCP is not showing them listed for my Year, Make, Model? Thanks again - J

 

See the attached procedure (from the Jag Workshop Manual).

 

Here you go xMETROx.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/40327605566...mis&media=COPY

 

Thanks again! I got the dipstick tool and the cap off. The end of the tool was covered in fluid to the top.. the car has been sitting for two days (cold) on my ramps in the front, so not sure about the low level but the fluid is obviously extremely dirty. I'm going to hold off on the conductor plate service and do the fluid and filter first to make sure it still drives okay. I have an Autel code scanner with TCM capability but according to the Mercedes forum you need a STAR compliant computer to reset the Mercedes codes and check shift points? Does anyone know if this is correct information? I was planning on using the ATF 134 but I'm seeing many people say that Valvoline MaxLife ATF is compliant and I plan to change this fluid at least two or three more times to clear out the torque converter, etc. Can anyone confirm this? Could the pump noise be caused by dirty fluid, filter or a bad conductor plate? Thanks again for everyone's help, I just bought this car from the original owner and I'm confident he took good care of it save for this trans fluid.

*This trans does not have the fill plug on the side, so looks like I have to fill from the dipstick tube

 

The Valvoline Maxlife is what I use in both of our XJR’s. No issues for me there. I would do as you suggested with the filter and fluid first. Run several quarts through it and if it still acts up, go to the conductor plate next.

 

Commandeering the thread here to ask you about the red VW. What year is it? Definitely an older one based on the bumper, fender vent, and the turn signal, but I can't quite place the headlight. Looks like it's in good shape, as does the Jag.

By the way, I think your transmission fluid is way too full. I agree with your choice to do a good service and see from there. Yes, you have to fill from the dipstick tube.

 

67’ I think.

 

Thank you, I'm starting the transmission service right now. Going to do the fluid and filter, run it a bit and do a spill and fill after to get it flushed out more. I will drive it for about a week and do a third spill and fill to get around 90% clean. Just REALLY hoping this pump noise goes away in park and neutral. The fluid is so dirty I wouldn't be surprised if the filter is a bit clogged.

That's "The Pig" a 1966 Beetle. 1966 was the last year for glass covered headlights. '67 was one year only with bulb and different fenders. Then in 1968 they changed and got away from the classic chrome over-rider bumpers, etc. It's un-restored and rough around the edges cosmetically. However it has a Rancho Transmission with 3.88 ring and pinion with a fresh 1641cc, single carb. Totally reliable. It is lowered on drop spindles and adjusters. I bought the car in high school 25 years ago. I had a 2110cc hot rod engine in it with dual Dellorto 45mm carbs I bought in an airplane hanger next to a 1950's "bath tub" Porsche, it was scary fast then. I sold the car to my friend in 1999 and he kept it all these years. Sat in his backyard in Arizona almost 20 years and he got it back on the road and I bought it back from him last year. We do campouts and car shows once in a while. Unfortunately I was laid off and I am having thoughts of selling it again. My main focus is the XJR now

I really appreciate everyone's help here.

 

Very cool. I had a '67 most of my life, sold it several years ago, and have regretted selling it from the moment I cashed the check. I've let them know that I'd like to buy it back if they ever choose to sell it. I bought a '73 that I'm resurrecting slowly. Not nearly as desirable as the 67 and older ones though.

 

Sweet! My first ride was a 66’ Ghia coupe back in 89’. White top, Bahama blue bottom. Car is long gone but I have an original (not reproduction) roof rack and Alfa grill for it that I want to sell along with other parts. The best carb setup was dual 34 ICT’s.

The XJR’s in my opinion are some of the best cars to tinker with.

 

SOLVED: After the new filter and fluid the sound from the transmission is gone. I can still hear the electronic clicking sound from time to time but I assume that's just part of the system. I may still do the conductor plate and socket sometime soon as preventative maintenance.. Thanks again for everyone's help, the car runs and drives great with the Valvoline MaxLife ATF, now to spill and fill a couple of times and on to the diff then coolant.