Well after resetting the codes a few days ago and cleaning the tb sensor the trac and asc light came back on today. Seems if I turn the air off it goes away but when at an idle it will come back. Put a volt meter on the battery reading 11.5 volts not running. Reads 11.5 volts running. Seems that might explain the whine that started about a week ago (yeah I don't really drive it a ton). Anyways, I'm heading to Philly for a TVR meet in the morning. Is the removal of the alternator straight forward aside from lack of space to get at it? Anything you need to remove? Have the battery on a tender which will tell me by morning if it is bad. It isn't original to the XJR so I'm guessing it was probably replaced a year or 2 ago by looking at the nice corrosion free cables.

 

Interesting. I had them come on today, never seen the lights before. I checked/snugged the connections on the ABS module and the lights/warnings went away.

 

What about voltage at alternator when running? You should be able to get a probe in from the RH wheel arch. Could be voltage is dropping from alt. to battery?

 

Maybe I am just lucky --- I have never had any corrosion on any of my batteries -- they all look factory fresh no matter how old they are. Same goes for my other cars with the batteries under different seats.


So the battery could be older than you think

 

Well the battery is an AC Delco which I would doubt came stock in the XJR. Assuming the stock battery was good for 5 years or so plus as good as it looks in there leads me to say it isn't too old.

Went to Advance last night to see what they could find. Of course it said charge the battery. I put it on my trickle charger last night and it still is only up to 12.1 this morning.

Guess the wife will be taking the X type to philly.

 

The Jaguar battery is white -- very similar to the MB battery made in Spain -- never looked at the location for the Jaguar battery manufacture. Its a great battery -- JAG just charges too much for it. MB will sell you a new battery installed through the free roadside assistance program cheaper than you can buy it from the dealer direct -- About $150.00

Many do not install the correct battery when they replace them. Pep Boys sells a Bosch rebranded battery with the correct vent tube hook up and CCA for about $100.00 -- I think Exide makes them. I believe Duralast are Johnson Controls/ Interstate .....also fine. I have had very good luck with the Bosch batteries.

Benebob: I have a weekend place in Bucks County PA -- A bunch of TVR's just drove past (11am) ...... was that you ??

 

Well the trickle charger got it up to 12.3 over night Thurs and I didn't want to leave it hooked up all weekend. I'm guessing now it probably not the battery. Its a 1.5amp hour so will take a bit.

Too funny, yeah we were up around kintersville area doing a covered bridge and bake tour. Roads would be great if they were a little smoother. I was in the red wedge with valves which need adjusted.

If your bored were at Washingtons Crossing Park today for a show. 9-3

 

Well the weekend off didn't solve anything. Took the battery out tonight and took it to get charged at Advance Autoparts rather than relying on the trickle charger to do the same in the next 2 days. Battery tested just fine. Charged to 13.1, 778 cca (rated at 800). Brought it home and put it in. Got 13.58 volts at idle let it run for 5 minutes or so. Tried revving it beyond 3k and it won't, it simply stumbles at that point like it is hitting a rev limiter. Checked voltage again and it is was at 12.7 at an idle. Obviously something isn't working right. Absolutely no check engine lights. Any ideas?

 

So -- you have no lights at all but the engine will not go over 3000rpm?

Did you try to move the throttle at the throttle body to make sure that its not something in the cable?


With many of the battery issues what happens is the volts drop as the starter kicks in -- this momentary drop in voltage throws off the electronics -- some of them going in to a failsafe mode for that drive cycle.


I can not remember what the minimum voltage spec is for a battery - so your volt drop may be considered normal .... but I do not think so. The trickle charger should have brought that up.

You also should be getting more than you are from the alternator. The charging system is rather straight forward and easy to have checked out - it sounds like it is failing. Try starting the car and turn on the interior light -- then turn on the seat heaters and the rear defrost and see what the lights do.

 

You car has a limiter and will not allow it to go over 3000rpm when in “P” I think it might in “N”!

 

I am lost in your post. What is it that you are trying to figure out?

 

Alternator tested bad on the bench. Was testing marginal in the car. PITA to get out but not really hard, just a PITA. Hoping to have it back this afternoon so long as they got all the parts they need.

 

Let us know how it goes. I wish you luck!

 

Just got a call from my local rebuild shop and its ready for pick up. Will be stopping for some more beer on the way home. It'll be in by morning... Otherwise I'll have to ride or drive a soggy TVR through tomorrow's monsoon.

 

Keep an eye on the battery. I have never had a battery live very long after it was subjected to a failing alternator -- unless it was new.