Two months ago I bought a "new" 2000 xjr Black pearl over ivory:

In the last three months I've changed:

1 cold air ducted from fog light hole to air box area
2 92mm Pro-M MAF
3 Prototype Muppet Labs 4" to 3.5" intake
4 Maxbored TB 82mm, was 75
5 Port matched elbow myself
6 rebuilt Ported 5th gen Blower with fuel immune rotor coatings (still making a little noise, I'll possibly improve on this)
7 +4 lb lower pulley
8 Water/Meth injection injecting 375 ml/minute before the blower for better blower efficiency
9 1 step colder Denso U-groove spark plugs
10 Nameless high flow cats
11 Boost a pump to be used when squeezing large Nitrous shots

12 Nitrous Express Proton system which can add as much power as I want up to the limits of the engine. Progressive boost referencing controller with window switches, TPS switches, purge valve, etc. Remote valve so I can open/close the bottle at the touch of a button from the cabin

I now have either 650+ "theoretical" HP on tap in 5 minutes of changing jet sizes, or, I have a "theoretical" grenade under my hood...

13 Inter cooler mist spray
14 pusher fan for inter cooler radiator
15 ABS module solder fix
16 Oil change with Royal Purple 5w30 w/synerlec
17 Upgraded to 3rd gen Tensioners
18 Flushed brake fluid
19 new akebono pads for very good stopping and very very low dust
20 oil catch can
21 new RE760 245 45 18 tires (the streets "are" lined with velvet)


Next to do:

Install my Real Gauge
test Nitrous jettings for AFR and on Dyno
stainless steel brake lines
upgrade to slotted front rotors and duct them properly

Polish, Drive, Enjoy, repeat

 

Drooooolll...

You might want to spend some quality time with your driver's license, because it may not be around much longer!

 

I'd love to see some vbox stats once you have set the car up how you want it. 0-60 would be interesting but 0-30, 30-60 and 50-70 etc would also be interesting if we have some stock XJR stats to compare those figures to

 

Nice job! Sounds like you have a cat with a real bite now!
Try not to get too many speeding tickets.

 

Just hope the drive train can handle all that power !
Are you going to fit a parachute at the back as well...?

 

Took the car out for the first drive today since all the changes.

Gobbs of power, roll into the throttle from a stop, there is no waiting for the super charger to spool up, just BAM!! it pulls hard out of the hole, just at the limit of traction on street tires! See my video on page 4 post # 67 of this post to see how fast it revs (with full traction) in 1st and 2nd gears.

It is not nearly as fast as XJR-99s out of the hole...yet His launch video is something to behold ! see here http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GTAlt...ature=youtu.be

I noticed my Nameless cats need an additional set of gaskets to seal, as I could see some exhaust leak when I squirted water on them to test for leaks, so I'll order those and get them on soon. These Nameless cats have about zero chance of passing smog. When I was getting on it a lot today it threw a code of p0430 (cats too in efficient) After clearing the code and driving normally it did not come back.

Another tweak I made today was I switched the control for the water/meth injection from MAF signal voltage control to boost control. I settled on having it turn on at about 9 lbs of boost with 375 ml/minute as a moderate injection rate. I am having zero power fade issues from heat, even with many repeated full hard runs, so overheating the cooling circuit does not seem to remotely be an issue with the ported blower and water/meth injection. The ported eaton is performing pretty well. So the myth of Eatons not being able to run cool enough if they are hopped up has been myth busted.

Another major IAT cooling benefit I will see, when I get it working, is that Nitrous injects at -126 degrees F. So even if I was running hot, even a small +35 RWHP shot of Nitrous would cool the IATS a lot. My IATs are no longer an issue x 2

The improvement from my larger MAF and intake tube is pretty big. I added the +4 lb lower pulley still using the stock intake as a baseline and went from 9-10 psi to a solid 13. A solid 3.5-4 psi gain.

When I added my larger MAF and intake, and nameless cats my boost is now 15-16 psi without the water injection and 1 psi higher with the water injection running, so 15-16 psi without the water/meth, and 16-17 psi with, so a solid 2 psi gain from my intake and MAF, and 1 additional psi from the water injection. This is why it is better to run water injection before the blower.

This is just a ported eaton with only a lower pulley. By injecting the water/meth before the blower, it helps it seal better, makes it more efficient, gives it some denser air to move, and runs much cooler. I wasn't even using my inter cooler water mist spray or my Nitrous and I was having zero power fade from heat build up. That is the power of a good port job combined with water/meth injection

Today, when the temp was below 70, my boost gauge read 17 psi. You can see this in the video on page 4, post 67, in 3rd gear at 5000 rpm+ the cheap boost gauge catches up to the reading and shows 17 psi. This is with only a lower pulley, stock upper, Steig port job on the blower, and water/meth injection at a modest 375 ml/minute injection rate.

Today I was running 75% water and 25% meth. I'm also running Torco Accelerator octane boostwith 91 octane pump gas.

Since I was having zero heat issues, I'm not going to increase the injection rate any higher, I'll just stick with the current amount.

Overall I am pretty happy with how it performs, now I'll work on finishing the Nitrous install and start testing that with the smallest +30 HP jets.

The car, as it is today, just on the motor, is SOLIDLY in the 12's 1/4 mile time. I'm going to test everything possible (AFR, injector duty cycle, etc) before going to the track. I want to see if I can get in or close to the 11s with the stock rear end on street tires and less than a +100 hp shot of nitrous.

UPDATE: for the above psi readings I had mistakenly left off the hose clamps on the bypass valves for the super charger, which were acting as bleed off valves over 16 psi. When I correctly tightened these I instantly was getting 18-19 psi with this set up

 

So is it modest or moderate???

TBH i know very little about water/meth injection, is that really a moderate flow rate?

Wow, how big a tank do you need for the system at that rate to get any useable range out of the car.

Yes I know it's not on all the time, but still...

 

I've got mine now set to come on anytime over 7 psi, I could bump that up a little to maybe 9 psi

 

When I make it to the 1/4 mile track I will post the time slip which shows the 60 foot time, as well as speeds at 1/8 mile, etc.

I will be using the stock rear end and see how well I can do with that before deciding if I "need" a limited slip.

I will also show a video of the run to prove I wasn't just racing another fast car a few times and using it's times as my own

 

Am also using the watertank, but my level meter comes on at about 2 liters left, which is good, so I still have enough for the window wipers in case I need it. If you want to use everything up, then place the sensor at the back of the tank (so when you floor it, all the water also moves to the back).

Am using 3 x CM2 (about 600cc, to much though for my normal setup, its a precauting setup for when I am going to test 24 psi and higher in boost), and the 5 liters are gone just before my tank is empty. I also start at about 7 psi, the slightly richer mixture at arround these modest accelerations (so 7 to 12 psi)workout really nice (with a 50/50 mix). Normaly my 5 liters are gone before my tank is empty, maybe that tells something about my driving style, just wanted to share my experience with how long 5 liters could last.

 

You need an LSD, it's that simple.

 

0-100 run in approx 10.8 seconds. This was after 4 hard runs 0-100 to try to get better lighting before giving up on getting better video, and an extra 300 lbs in the car over "race weight". You can see the boost gauge reaches 16 psi in 3rd gear. Regardless of what people say about ported eaton blowers, mine has no drop off in boost. In this video I let off approx 105ish mph. My eyes were on the road more than the speedo.

To the best I can tell, the 0-60, while not using the stall converter at all was approx 4.7-4.8 seconds (without any nitrous) The Michelin Pilot Super Sports grip just fine, so I have no excuses of wheel spin. I expected the 0-60 to be a little faster, this is what I did today with 4300 lbs in the car at 76 degrees. At the track with 1/4 tank of gas and no passenger I expect to be approx 300 lbs lighter than these runs.

I imagine when I add a 75 or 90 shot of Nitrous it will get me where I want to be.



http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AkqYv...ature=youtu.be

This online calculator http://www.torquestats.com/modified/...pid=calculator says this, 113 mph I am hoping this is pretty close to what I'll get, without nitrous, but the time slip will tell all.

RWD - 470bhp & 1950kg (4300 lbs with full tank, full trunk, +1 passenger)
Power to Weight: 245 bhp/ton
0-60: 5.0
0-100: 10.8
60-100: 5.8
1/4 Mile ET: 12.97
1/4 Mile Terminal: 113
Dragstrip 1/4 Mile ET: 12.77
Dragstrip 1/4 Mile Terminal: 117


Update- this was with the mistake of not clamping the bypass valve hoses, later video run of 0-100 in 10.4 sec @ 4200 lbs posted at 18-19 psi.

 

Impressive!

Very nice indeed.


Keep up the good work.

I am currently living vicariously through your modification adventures!

Stewart

 

Watching the videos is a much safer on the wallet way to experience it vs having a drivers seat view of parts flying through the hood.

I'll post a video of the dyno testing with different shots of nitrous when I can get that done

 

Can't wait to see the videos!

 

The 650 HP theoretical on tap calculation was done this way:

approx 470 Flywheel HP now
Nitrous +150 jets are RWHP, so using the / .83 that people on this board like to use to get flywheel HP, then 150/.83= 180 flywheel HP

470 Flywheel HP
180 from 150 shot of Nitrous
650 available with using a +150 Nitrous jetting

It is known that using Nitrous in high boost (hot IATs) conditions yields more than the usual, so the jettings may yield somewhere around 110% of what is advertised under normal non boosted conditions. This would suggest the +150 jet could give +198, So my 650 HP on tap claim is more conservative than over estimated. Maybe it would be more accurate to say my set up would yield 470+198=668 if I was using the +150 rwhp jets. I am not limited to a max of +150 jets, but I have no plans of using more than +100 at the moment.

Sherlock Holmes said it was just as dishonest to underestimate as it is to over estimate.

 

I guess you have stock 4.0 head gaskets? Using that amount of NOS with already higher than stock boost, it's very, very close to burn at least your gaskets if not blow up whole engine even you have NOS controller. 4.0 pistons are not forged ones. Be careful with amount of NOS in stock internal engine. Maybe 150hp shot is ok, but maybe not.

 

Good point,

Especially given current events.

My goal is 11.99, so I don't think I will need to go more than a 100 shot to get there, maybe only a 75 will do the trick.

 

Explain?

Mahle don't cast theirs, they forge them. Is this something you were told, read or know for a fact?



Well done WD, you're making the TS cars take notice, get the LSD.

It's all theoretical isn't it? (dyno sheets are worth a thousand words).

Ah, the power hungry world....lol

 

I think they can see the writing on the wall

As Frank Sinatra is singing in the background "And I did it my way..."