Just bought a 98 XJR, have a few q's:
#1
Just bought a 98 XJR, have a few q's:
I know a decent amount about these cars but still have a few questions, I know that 98-00(early) had the nikasil liner issues but usually are fine with higher mileage ones. I bought a 98 with about 160k, runs and drives great.
HOWEVER, the owner said that the crank pulley came off the car while he was driving, so he threaded it back down but its out of round now since it came off and now it has play in the pulley. He's saying that all I need is the crank pulley, is that true? Are these cars known for crank pulleys to just come off? He said cars got plenty of power and smooth running, just obviously has the wobble in the crank pulley.
Also, how do I know if the motor was replaced with the JAG warranty? Call jaguar with the vin? He said, the engine compartment is very clean and motor looks to have a lot less miles than 160k, I guess my question would be, if there is a stamping on it somewhere if the motor was newer?
The radio as well doesnt work, just completely dead, NO power. Common issue as well or prob just a fuse?
TIA
HOWEVER, the owner said that the crank pulley came off the car while he was driving, so he threaded it back down but its out of round now since it came off and now it has play in the pulley. He's saying that all I need is the crank pulley, is that true? Are these cars known for crank pulleys to just come off? He said cars got plenty of power and smooth running, just obviously has the wobble in the crank pulley.
Also, how do I know if the motor was replaced with the JAG warranty? Call jaguar with the vin? He said, the engine compartment is very clean and motor looks to have a lot less miles than 160k, I guess my question would be, if there is a stamping on it somewhere if the motor was newer?
The radio as well doesnt work, just completely dead, NO power. Common issue as well or prob just a fuse?
TIA
#2
I have a 98 XJR and having the pulley come off the crankshaft is not a common issue. I base that answer on having never heard of one coming off in all the threads on this forum that I have read. For what its worth, getting the crank pulley to come off, is to this day the biggest repair challenge I have run into. ( I thought the damn thing was welded on!)
On engine numbers after 961217xxx, the pulley uses a split locking cone that is not supposed to be re-used. Also, the securing bolt is torqued in the range of 268-385 lb. ft.
It may be that someone had your pulley off, especially if the engine was replaced and perhaps put back on without the locking cone, or maybe re-used the old one. Engines prior that number do not use a locking cone. They torque to 59 lb. ft + 80º. I assume they may be keyed, but as mine had a locking cone I can't say.
I suppose a possibility is that yours may need the cone, and you might find it missing. If you are fortunate, that may be all it needs. You will be able to tell if you remove the bolt, The outer end of the locking cone will be visible and may appear like a bushing, although it has a split in it. On the other hand, if yours has been spinning, it may be worn. If that is the case, I would hope it is spinning on an old split cone and that it is the cone that is worn. (being an optimist). Beyond that I would really hope that the crankshaft is not worn.
You are probably safe with the Nikasil issue if yours has that kind of mileage and still runs smooth and strong.
Can't guess on the radio.
The best of luck to you.
On engine numbers after 961217xxx, the pulley uses a split locking cone that is not supposed to be re-used. Also, the securing bolt is torqued in the range of 268-385 lb. ft.
It may be that someone had your pulley off, especially if the engine was replaced and perhaps put back on without the locking cone, or maybe re-used the old one. Engines prior that number do not use a locking cone. They torque to 59 lb. ft + 80º. I assume they may be keyed, but as mine had a locking cone I can't say.
I suppose a possibility is that yours may need the cone, and you might find it missing. If you are fortunate, that may be all it needs. You will be able to tell if you remove the bolt, The outer end of the locking cone will be visible and may appear like a bushing, although it has a split in it. On the other hand, if yours has been spinning, it may be worn. If that is the case, I would hope it is spinning on an old split cone and that it is the cone that is worn. (being an optimist). Beyond that I would really hope that the crankshaft is not worn.
You are probably safe with the Nikasil issue if yours has that kind of mileage and still runs smooth and strong.
Can't guess on the radio.
The best of luck to you.
#3
#4
Honestly, this spinning pulley problem is a new one on me.
If the crankshaft is worn, I would say that is a major problem. I am not a trained tech, just a DIY, so I am only giving you my thoughts on what the situation may be. You need to get the pulley off to inspect it and the crank for damage, but I am hopeful that the pulley would wear before the crank... or that the pulley was spinning on the cone and not the crank. Going out on a limb here, but maybe even with minor crank damage and a new cone, properly torqued down, you may get away with it. Since I have not seen it, all this is speculation on my part.
To properly torque the securing bolt, you would use a crank locking tool to hold the engine from turning. DO NOT use a crankshaft position pin for that.
The cones are inexpensive. Maybe $25.00 at a Jag dealer.
I am sorry, I don't recall where the blocks are stamped, but I am taking a guess that yours will have a cone. If you want to give me your vin number, I will check mine to see if yours is later. Someone on the forum may come in with an engine number location.
A dealer gave me a print out with all the details, including engine number, etc. Your local dealer will be able to tell you if the engine was replaced under warranty, and where to find your engine number.
Hope that helps
If the crankshaft is worn, I would say that is a major problem. I am not a trained tech, just a DIY, so I am only giving you my thoughts on what the situation may be. You need to get the pulley off to inspect it and the crank for damage, but I am hopeful that the pulley would wear before the crank... or that the pulley was spinning on the cone and not the crank. Going out on a limb here, but maybe even with minor crank damage and a new cone, properly torqued down, you may get away with it. Since I have not seen it, all this is speculation on my part.
To properly torque the securing bolt, you would use a crank locking tool to hold the engine from turning. DO NOT use a crankshaft position pin for that.
The cones are inexpensive. Maybe $25.00 at a Jag dealer.
I am sorry, I don't recall where the blocks are stamped, but I am taking a guess that yours will have a cone. If you want to give me your vin number, I will check mine to see if yours is later. Someone on the forum may come in with an engine number location.
A dealer gave me a print out with all the details, including engine number, etc. Your local dealer will be able to tell you if the engine was replaced under warranty, and where to find your engine number.
Hope that helps
#6
If a replacement engine has been fitted, a green tag should be visible down toward the back of the right-hand cylinder head.
#7
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#8
1) in most cases, if nikasil has not caused issues yet, it won't! High sulphur content gasoline caused nikasil damage and that gas has been outlawed for many years now - so, if the damage wasn't caused during the high sulphur years and hasn't shown up yet, it's not too likely to be an issue.
2) what tells you the engine has been replaced? My engine compartment still looks like showroom new - these engines just don't have a tendancy to leak fluids.
3) crankshaft pulley is not a common issue - what symptom does it have that his 'out of round' pulley was supposed to explain?
2) what tells you the engine has been replaced? My engine compartment still looks like showroom new - these engines just don't have a tendancy to leak fluids.
3) crankshaft pulley is not a common issue - what symptom does it have that his 'out of round' pulley was supposed to explain?
#9
He just acquired the car (dealer) about 3 weeks and drove it and the lost all power all of a sudden. He opened the hood to see a crank pulley just chilling in the engine bay, it came off. Its not round any more because of the banging when it came off, so now it bolted it back on and it has play (wobble) due it not being round anymore. Thats literally all I know, I haven't picked up the car yet, next week im picking it up but I bought it already. What about the sticker though, its behind the pass. side valve covers? Can it even been seen or hard to get to?
#10
Honestly, it just sounds suspicious (or at least rather strange) to me... with the solid steel of the pulley, I would expect it to damage everything around it that it hits, NOT the other way around.
Have you seen evidence of this wobble? Does the engine have a nasty vibration at some RPM's (as one would expect it would with an out-of-round crankshaft pulley)?
BTW, you can download the wiring diagram (that has fuse designation) from Captian Jag's Cathouse ( http://captainjaguarscathouse.com/El..._Reference.htm ). Wiring is same for XJ8/XJR
Have you seen evidence of this wobble? Does the engine have a nasty vibration at some RPM's (as one would expect it would with an out-of-round crankshaft pulley)?
BTW, you can download the wiring diagram (that has fuse designation) from Captian Jag's Cathouse ( http://captainjaguarscathouse.com/El..._Reference.htm ). Wiring is same for XJ8/XJR
Last edited by QuadManiac; 01-31-2012 at 01:34 AM.
#11
#14
If the car has a replacement engine from Jaguar, it'll have a green tab between head and block on the rhs.
The engine number is located (looking at the front of the car) 3rd rib back rhs - it's not cast, it's etched.
The crank cone picture is included. You might not be able to see it because of the new member status, if so contact a moderator to give you full access to forum resources.
I hope you didn't pay for the car yet. The crank dampers are no longer available from Jaguar. You'll have to find a breaker for one. I think the 4.0n/a and s/c units are the same. Pray the crank isn't damaged.
I hope you find the information I have included helpful.
Good luck.
The engine number is located (looking at the front of the car) 3rd rib back rhs - it's not cast, it's etched.
The crank cone picture is included. You might not be able to see it because of the new member status, if so contact a moderator to give you full access to forum resources.
I hope you didn't pay for the car yet. The crank dampers are no longer available from Jaguar. You'll have to find a breaker for one. I think the 4.0n/a and s/c units are the same. Pray the crank isn't damaged.
I hope you find the information I have included helpful.
Good luck.
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plums (02-13-2012)
#15
No, i havnt paid for it yet, i usually dont buy unseen, but i got it for too cheap, 98 black/black with 160, new tires, 3 owners, ripped rear and driver seats, missing headliner and a couple dings here and there, for $1900, i already find seats for about $300 complete set. Do you have a pic of the actual pulley with the cone on, all on? Also, given the price an the fact that it runs and drives, what do you think of the price? Which one is the crank dampener? How would I know if the crank is damaged or not? What should I ask him over the phone?
Last edited by jaguars4r; 01-31-2012 at 09:20 AM.
#16
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/m...-gearbox-4646/
The above shot is of an engine with the double (damper) pulley installed. This is an uprated bigger diameter alloy pulley, the original will be black and smaller but it runs both the supercharger and all accessories. How it runs is anybodies guess if the pulley spins. By the way, the cone is fitted to the later AJ27 engines, I don't know if the AJ26 had a key??
You will have to use the car's seat modules as they're programmed to the car, they're a grey box screwed under the seat....
Price, I can only comment on UK/Euro prices as I'm located in England, but its cheap enough to make money on if parted out
The only way to see if the crank is damaged is to see if the crank pulley bolt will tension up to it's (big) torque setting. It's mentioned above. If the threads are stripped, it's a very tricky job to go up a size on the thread/bolt. I'd not like to attempt fixing that with the engine still in the car.
Ask him to send a picture of the front of the engine to include all pulleys belts and idler/tensioners, that means putting the camera down between the radiators and engine and taking a series of shots to get an overall picture of the front end, after seeing it should be easier to decide on the jobs it needs.
Sean
The above shot is of an engine with the double (damper) pulley installed. This is an uprated bigger diameter alloy pulley, the original will be black and smaller but it runs both the supercharger and all accessories. How it runs is anybodies guess if the pulley spins. By the way, the cone is fitted to the later AJ27 engines, I don't know if the AJ26 had a key??
You will have to use the car's seat modules as they're programmed to the car, they're a grey box screwed under the seat....
Price, I can only comment on UK/Euro prices as I'm located in England, but its cheap enough to make money on if parted out
The only way to see if the crank is damaged is to see if the crank pulley bolt will tension up to it's (big) torque setting. It's mentioned above. If the threads are stripped, it's a very tricky job to go up a size on the thread/bolt. I'd not like to attempt fixing that with the engine still in the car.
Ask him to send a picture of the front of the engine to include all pulleys belts and idler/tensioners, that means putting the camera down between the radiators and engine and taking a series of shots to get an overall picture of the front end, after seeing it should be easier to decide on the jobs it needs.
Sean
Last edited by Sean B; 01-31-2012 at 12:00 PM.
#17
I talked to the guy today, he said the car runs and idles SMOOTH, no issues with that at all. What happened was, the cone and bolt came off (unbolted) itself and it fell off, the pully took some little beating when it came off but he got the bolt and cone and threaded right back up. When I brought up the possibility of a bad crankshaft, he pretty much laughed and said, NOTHING like that all, it literally just unbolted itseld, he lost the bolt and cone on the road but the pulley itself got stuck right about the cross member. He went to a nearby british car junkyard and got a replacement bolt and cone and he said, everything threaded and installed just fine, runs and drives great, just has a wobble play which I why I need a new pulley, it sucks though since XJ8 pulley is NOT the same. Ohhh and btw... finding this pulley is near impossible, its $1500 at the dealer... FOR JUST A PULLEY, where else should I look?
Last edited by jaguars4r; 01-31-2012 at 09:09 PM.
#18
I don't think it just "fell off," do you? Really???
Vector
#19
#20
I figured I would chime in here- My Pulley came loose, fortunately I was close enough to get home...
I thought the pulley had come apart, but when I pulled on it, it came right off. Doesn't look like the car has been worked on before I owned it, so I have to believe it loosened itself. Ordered a new cone and bolt, so I should be back on the road by Tuesday. I also have never come across such a weird situation... for the poster, you are going to have to find a used one, no way around it.
I thought the pulley had come apart, but when I pulled on it, it came right off. Doesn't look like the car has been worked on before I owned it, so I have to believe it loosened itself. Ordered a new cone and bolt, so I should be back on the road by Tuesday. I also have never come across such a weird situation... for the poster, you are going to have to find a used one, no way around it.