I took everything apart today and the pulley looks to be out of round a little on the opposite side of where the cone is, the cone is on, but very loose, should it be loose? whats the difference between the used and new one? The cone has a slit in the middle, right? How much did you pay for the cone at the jag dealer? Also, do I need to be loctite on the cone and around the cone or just loctite on the bolt?

 

The wobble mainly went away when I took the cone and everything apart and realized that there was dried up loctite everywhere and chunks of it making it NOT smooth, once I cleaned it all up, the wobble nearly went away, but I still need that new cone

 

Hi
Jaguar Electronic Parts Catalog shows the split collect (your cone on the crankshaft - described as between damper [pulley] and crankshaft) part# NCC1450AA .

I looked this part number up on Gaudin Jaguar Parts online and found it has been superceded with part# AJ89854 - retail price is $37.50 discount down to $30.46 plus shipping.

Jim Lombardi

 

MANDATORY- new bolt, new cone washer. The cone washer is probably like mine, ground down to a thin washer. The bolt comes from the dealer with loctite on it.

 

Had yours been apart before? Wonder how common this is if the bolt has never been touched.

 

Do you still need any parts?

 

I am convinced it came loose because of the wobble (distorted rubber) created from the tension of the supercharger belt while it sat for three years. I did not see any evidence of prior work, and I bought it with a broken upper timing chain which I replaced without removing the pulley. I suppose it is possible someone tried to loosen it and start the work, then stopped and re-tightened it when they were told no.... I doubt it is very common, as I had not run across it in all my reading over the last 9 years or so in Jaguar forums.

 

yes, I do, I see you are in Chicago, what do you have? Are you parting out an XJR?

 

What about new cone itself? Dont need it? Also, what about a keyway? Does it even have on?

 

Woodruff key: Mine did not have one, the tightness of the bolt holds the pulley in position

Cone washer: The cone IS the washer.

Three parts:
Pulley
Cone
Bolt with Pink loctite

If you buy a new pulley, I would be interested in buying your old one- I would send it out to be repaired and use it on mine if the metal isn't too damaged.

D

 

Hi
Here is a JPEG of the Jaguar Electronic Parts Catalog page showing the diagram and most of the componet part numbers for Damper Bolt (Bolt), Damper (Pulley), Sealing Ring, Split Collet (Cone), Woodruff Key, Crankshaft Oil Seal, Crankshaft and the other remaining parts:




Jim Lombardi

 

HI
PDF file extract from JTIS21 shop repair manual that covers the Removal & step by step installation instructions & illustrations for the Crankshaft Pulley and associated componets (98 XJR).

98 XJR Crankshaft Pulley R&I.pdf

Not sure why the woodruft key is not shown or mentioned in the above ????

Jim Lombardi

 

Glad I could help


The woodruft key is for the oil pump. The pulley has no key. Definitively get a new bolt and cone. Reusing it is probably the reason why it came off the 1st time.

 

Thanks Adam for the help, all you have to do now is get rid of the iphone, I think you called me about 5 times today.... lol......everytime you call me, I keep thinking you got more parts or somthing....

 

Yes, but what is #11 in the diagram pic? Where does that go? It seems like I need the bolt, pulley, cone and whatever #11 is?

 

jaguar4r,

I'm in Brisbane, Australia and my bus partner dismantles jags. If you don't/can't find a front engine damper (pulley) over there, let me know & I'll ask Murray if he has one. You'll need to privide your VIN & Engine number so he can check to make sure that you get the right one.
Incidentally, Nikasil engines were fitted up until April 2000: the engine number can also tell you whether it was a Nikasil or not. Keep in mind that engines which were installed as replacements under warranty can still be Nikasil. Only the engine number can identify which type is in the car.
I would agree with the observation of QuadManiac: it would seem odd that the damper was out of round, they are a bloody solid lump of steel. Unless it was grated along the tarmac it is difficult to comprehend. Perhaps the rubber bushing is damaged, or perhaps the crankshaft is worn out of round causing the damper to 'throw' during operation. But I would seriously doubt that it is 'out of round'. That sounds like 'car salesman spiel' to me. It would seem that he has little mechanical knowledge about engines, but wishes to appear knowledgable & so has created a story to fit what he sees.
I'd suggest that you make the purchase subject to a mechanical inspection by a proper workshop of your choice (not his), because if the crank is damaged, the engine will have to be pulled out & semi stripped down to repair or replace it. It won't be able to be done while in the car.
I cannot comment about the price there, but in NZ in good nick with those miles it would be worth about $12,500 to sell. That's about $10,000 US, but it would need to be in good condition generally.

 

Forgot to say, the green tag was to tell the dealer that the engine was a warranty replacement, not that the replacement was one type of engine or the other.

Cheers,

Languid.

 

I got the pulley yesterday from Adam and ordered all the new parts from the dealer today, bolt, cone, crankshaft seat and that #11 washer, so when I put it all back together next week (since dealer doesnt have the parts in stock) ill let you guys know how it goes, also, what do you guys use to lock the pulley when tightening? I was able to use a bmw trans bolt 5hp-24 that fit right in the flyweel, kind of worried that it might snap though since I have to torque it to 350tq

 

#11 is a sealing ring (o-ring) that goes inside the pulley- look on the engine side of the pulley and you will see a groove which does (or does not) have something in it.

 

I looked for the green tag, I see no sticker on the back of the pass. side heads (right side)