Clarification : I put a new thermostat housing & thermostat on Olivia. I forgot to connect the large hose on the back of the housing (the large hose). So when I started filling the expansion tank with coolant it ran out of the hose towards the engine. This is what caused the knock sensors codes. I took her to have the codes cleared. Now it shows the P0356 code (ignition coil/F primary/secondary malfunction).

 

Oh. And is it OK to drive with P0356 code?

 

The coil on the left side of the engine, looking forward from the steering wheel, is misfiring. Second coil, left side from radiator. Try clean it with a Q-tip. Been driving it will not hurt.

You have found your problem. As the engine dries, the car will begin the run correctly. You may have to clean the coil with electrical cleaner.

It is fun to work on your car: but go slow and be careful.

 

Driving the car more than a FEW miles can damage the catalytic converter.

 

Thanks. And I'll go slow. Only tackling what I think I can handle. And I have "My Forum ". So I'm going to do what you said and let you know how it comes out.

 

I just read another post and it states if I drive the car in this state it will damage the catalog converter. Which is it? Can I drive or not. Please help

 

I must defer to Ross; much more experience. Clean the coil, then see how it runs.

If you plan to keep working on it, you might want to buy your own code reader instead of driving down to Auto Zone for a reset.

 

Is the CEL blinking?

Never drive when it is blinking -- that's telling you that the misfire is great enough that unburned fuel maybe leaving the engine. When a spark plug is not firing -- the fuel to that cylinder is not being burned -- the fuel flows into the hot catalytic converter where it ignites. This can overheat and melt the converter -- not good.

Without looking at the car it's impossible to tell the level of the miss.

 

Is there a code for the catalytic converter?

 

Why not just fix the coil problem?

 

I am. I just wanted to know can I drive it to the mechanic, an how many miles can I drive without damage?

 

It is highly unlikely you will damage the catalytic converter driving for "short" distances if the CEL is not blinking. On the other hand, some folks have come back and reported they "only " drove their car a "short" distance of 100 miles after their engne temp light came on

BTW, I need to clarify one of my posts on the other thread and add some information. You asked if the bad knock sensors could cause rough running and RP. I gave a terse "yes", but that was not completely correct. The KS will cause RP, but will not cause rough idle per se. RP will cause limited rpm and power.

Also, I find it interesting that you would change a hose, and change two KS, but are reluctant to pull the coils and look for water. It is actually a much simpler operation to check the coils than do the KS. Are you spooked by the flood? Most (all?) of us here have done something every bit as stupid as not getting a hose tight. I suggest you do not let it get you down. It is how you learn. Your KS were already cracked if the water caused them to code and would have failed eventually even without the flood. Save the trouble and cost and spend ten minutes removing the coil cover (6 screws), then unplug the coil, remove its two screws, grab the coil and pull upward while twisting it slightly back and forth. Dry it, dab the moisture from the hole and reassemble. Viola, you will be back in business in less time than a trip to the mechanic.

But please tell me. What were you going to drive it to the AutoZone for?

 

I had already driven it to auto zone to put obd2 code scanner to see why Olivia was running so rough and did I successfully install my KS. So that's when I found out about the P0356 code. And to be honest, I had no idea what a coil pack was until I gotI on the internet. But after your taking the time to explain everything in such detail to me, the heck with getting a mechanic, I'm going to go for it. see you on the other side.

 

I pulled the coil pack (piece of cake) and there was no moisture. It had rust on the metal sides, so I ordered a new one (Discount Body Parts.com.. for $33.74 tax included). It is a replacement part. Ships in 1-2 business days. I'll let you know how it goes. Again Thanks for your help

 

I suggest you pull the spark plug and check it too. Your coil might have been wet, then fouled the plug as you drove it, then dried out. That happened to me once. A little rust does not indicate a bad coil, BUT it might be internally shorted.

You are working on the second coil back from the front, on the left hand (from driver's seat) right?

 

I am working on the second one from the front of the vehicle on the driver's side. I have a diagram of the coil pack numbers and the positions. I agree about the plug, so I am buying one from advanced auto. Thank you so much for all of your help. You give me confidence. I starting to feel like a VETERAN

 

What should the gap on the spark plug be? .031 or .035? Which gap tool us best? The coin type or the ine with the loops all around?

 

I assume you have the NKG plug which should come properly gapped. You should check the gap however and either tool will work. I personally would not reset a plug which came with either .031 or .035 gap, and either gap will work. I am sure there are other opinions on this matter, no doubt with much emotion and certainty.

 

Ok thanks I'll get the NKG plug.

 

NKG Iridium spark plug?