Leather conditioner
#21
09-28-2013, 06:56 AM
Veteran member
I use Bag Balm - a salve first sold in 1899 to soothe cows udders after milking - on both my cars to amazing results. It goes on pretty greasy, so I like to let it 'sit' for a while (presumably absorbing into the leather) and then wipe off whatever remains. It also has a faint farm-y smell; but I must say, when that subsides, the full bouquet of the original leather reasserts itself. My cars smell and look great. Also, it's super cheap and can be picked up at Farm & Fleet.
I guess I figure, what's best for the cow is probably best for my car.
cheers,
Scott+
I guess I figure, what's best for the cow is probably best for my car.
cheers,
Scott+
#23
09-28-2013, 09:00 AM
I've used Leatherique and like it.
Realistically speaking, if leather conditioner "smells like leather" it's because it has perfumes in it to make it so. Even leather doesn't "smell like leather" forever because the volatiles in it that create the smell do dissipate.
It's interesting to see people bring up the difference between vat-dyed leather (same color from surface all the way through to the "suede" side) and Connolized leather (surface painted dye).
All of the older British cars I've dealt with from the 1960s on have routinely used Connolized leather. My XJ8L has Connolized leather. It is difficult to condition this leather when it's in "absolutely perfect" condition because the dye (paint) layer isn't very good about allowing anything to absorb. As it develops micro-cracks from flexing it becomes easier to get it to accept conditioner.
Vat-dyed leather, which seems to be "the in thing" now (and which I like better) is like a sponge from day one by comparison.
Connolized leather is, however, far easier to rehabilitate since you can, literally, sand off the color layer and reapply new dye (paint).
Virtually all conditioners that use any oils, and that's most of the products listed so far in this thread, work much better if you have the car outside on a sunny day, apply them, then roll up the windows to allow for several hours of "bake in" to the leather. You get much more absorbed into the hide itself. In the winter I've known friends who put black trash bags over the seats with the windows rolled up to try to boost the heating during the colder months.
Realistically speaking, if leather conditioner "smells like leather" it's because it has perfumes in it to make it so. Even leather doesn't "smell like leather" forever because the volatiles in it that create the smell do dissipate.
It's interesting to see people bring up the difference between vat-dyed leather (same color from surface all the way through to the "suede" side) and Connolized leather (surface painted dye).
All of the older British cars I've dealt with from the 1960s on have routinely used Connolized leather. My XJ8L has Connolized leather. It is difficult to condition this leather when it's in "absolutely perfect" condition because the dye (paint) layer isn't very good about allowing anything to absorb. As it develops micro-cracks from flexing it becomes easier to get it to accept conditioner.
Vat-dyed leather, which seems to be "the in thing" now (and which I like better) is like a sponge from day one by comparison.
Connolized leather is, however, far easier to rehabilitate since you can, literally, sand off the color layer and reapply new dye (paint).
Virtually all conditioners that use any oils, and that's most of the products listed so far in this thread, work much better if you have the car outside on a sunny day, apply them, then roll up the windows to allow for several hours of "bake in" to the leather. You get much more absorbed into the hide itself. In the winter I've known friends who put black trash bags over the seats with the windows rolled up to try to boost the heating during the colder months.
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WaterDragon (09-28-2013)
#24
09-28-2013, 11:08 AM
Veteran Member
I've used Leatherique and like it.
Realistically speaking, if leather conditioner "smells like leather" it's because it has perfumes in it to make it so. Even leather doesn't "smell like leather" forever because the volatiles in it that create the smell do dissipate.
It's interesting to see people bring up the difference between vat-dyed leather (same color from surface all the way through to the "suede" side) and Connolized leather (surface painted dye).
All of the older British cars I've dealt with from the 1960s on have routinely used Connolized leather. My XJ8L has Connolized leather. It is difficult to condition this leather when it's in "absolutely perfect" condition because the dye (paint) layer isn't very good about allowing anything to absorb. As it develops micro-cracks from flexing it becomes easier to get it to accept conditioner.
Vat-dyed leather, which seems to be "the in thing" now (and which I like better) is like a sponge from day one by comparison.
Connolized leather is, however, far easier to rehabilitate since you can, literally, sand off the color layer and reapply new dye (paint).
Virtually all conditioners that use any oils, and that's most of the products listed so far in this thread, work much better if you have the car outside on a sunny day, apply them, then roll up the windows to allow for several hours of "bake in" to the leather. You get much more absorbed into the hide itself. In the winter I've known friends who put black trash bags over the seats with the windows rolled up to try to boost the heating during the colder months.
Realistically speaking, if leather conditioner "smells like leather" it's because it has perfumes in it to make it so. Even leather doesn't "smell like leather" forever because the volatiles in it that create the smell do dissipate.
It's interesting to see people bring up the difference between vat-dyed leather (same color from surface all the way through to the "suede" side) and Connolized leather (surface painted dye).
All of the older British cars I've dealt with from the 1960s on have routinely used Connolized leather. My XJ8L has Connolized leather. It is difficult to condition this leather when it's in "absolutely perfect" condition because the dye (paint) layer isn't very good about allowing anything to absorb. As it develops micro-cracks from flexing it becomes easier to get it to accept conditioner.
Vat-dyed leather, which seems to be "the in thing" now (and which I like better) is like a sponge from day one by comparison.
Connolized leather is, however, far easier to rehabilitate since you can, literally, sand off the color layer and reapply new dye (paint).
Virtually all conditioners that use any oils, and that's most of the products listed so far in this thread, work much better if you have the car outside on a sunny day, apply them, then roll up the windows to allow for several hours of "bake in" to the leather. You get much more absorbed into the hide itself. In the winter I've known friends who put black trash bags over the seats with the windows rolled up to try to boost the heating during the colder months.
Thanks for the good info
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