Likelihood of a Jag making it to 200k MI?
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#2
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Me! One MY 98 XJR started looking ugly at 220,000 miles, now "retired", One MY99 XJR at 185,000 (headgasket), and one MY 02 XJ8 with 178,000 looks and drives like new.
All run hard, abused and oil changed at nearly factory interval (10,000 miles).
That said, if I had been paying someone else to keep them running in top shape, I would be better to buy a new Jag (Oh yeah, I did!)
If are not sure your tensioners are changed, you better do them!
All run hard, abused and oil changed at nearly factory interval (10,000 miles).
That said, if I had been paying someone else to keep them running in top shape, I would be better to buy a new Jag (Oh yeah, I did!)
If are not sure your tensioners are changed, you better do them!
#3
![Default](/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Me! One MY 98 XJR started looking ugly at 220,000 miles, now "retired", One MY99 XJR at 185,000 (headgasket), and one MY 02 XJ8 with 178,000 looks and drives like new.
All run hard, abused and oil changed at nearly factory interval (10,000 miles).
That said, if I had been paying someone else to keep them running in top shape, I would be better to buy a new Jag (Oh yeah, I did!)
If are not sure your tensioners are changed, you better do them!
All run hard, abused and oil changed at nearly factory interval (10,000 miles).
That said, if I had been paying someone else to keep them running in top shape, I would be better to buy a new Jag (Oh yeah, I did!)
If are not sure your tensioners are changed, you better do them!
That happened with my ball joints... Was going to replace the lower *****, but it's damn near impossible without a grinding wheel and or a new control arm!
#4
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OK, but read the stories on here about folks waiting to get "A Round Tuit" for taking care of their tensioners, usually with words about "how well the car is running". The are all very sad tales indeed!
YOU HAVE BEEN WARNED!
The covers on these are not too hard to get off and it is a good time to carefully check the part load and full load breather tubes and to rod out the part load orifice. Getting the oil dip stick out of the way is about the main challenge in the process.
YOU HAVE BEEN WARNED!
The covers on these are not too hard to get off and it is a good time to carefully check the part load and full load breather tubes and to rod out the part load orifice. Getting the oil dip stick out of the way is about the main challenge in the process.
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firstchoice (08-07-2015)
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I have an 80 VW Diesel Rabbit. Only repairs I did to it were a head gasket at 125K, injection pump at 175K, and a clutch at 200K. Finally gave it away with 325K to the VW dealer service manager...he drove it around for a couple more years.
I had a Caddy Seville with the northcrap engine in it that blew out the case half seal at 75K (luckily under extended service), a tranny at 90K, and a constantly plugged heater core (replaced once, which required the whole frapping interior be removed to get to it, again, under warranty) and barely made it to 100K before I traded it.
And don't ask about the 71 Lotus in my garage. That's a whole 'nother story.
Bottom line? It's a crap shoot. Rebuilding the tranny is not too bad if you ammortize it over 200K miles, replace the tensioners, heater hoses, plastic thermostat housing, etc. These cars are NOT garage queens, neither are they soulless toyohonnissans either. They DO require regular TLC. But if you do, I'm pretty sure 200K is well within the realm of possiblity.
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#8
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Motorcaman covered this one: Leave the dipstick in place and pull the tube out of the block a little and move it out of the way. The dipstick will guide it back in when finished.
#10
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Yeah, but since the dipstick can stick a little, that is the challenge... And that is the ONLY challenge
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$47.00 USD each. Did them both recently; previous ham-handed tech broke a lock tab on each of the disconnects and just used tywraps to keep them tight. Relatively cheap and easy to do. The heat does embrittle them, so, probably a good idea to just do it.
#14
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My '99 XJR is at 183,000 and running strong. Believe it or not, I bought it at 173,000 with the original secondary tensioners. Replaced those, valve cover gaskets (oil leaks), power steering pump, rear output shaft bearings (probably did not need those), tires, and am due for some shocks. All relatively low cost parts.
#15
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1998 XJ8 is at 110k mi without any "major" workings aside from the warranty updates (e.g. throttle body, timing chain guides, etc) which were entirely done at no cost to me. It was my daily driver until motorcycle purchase. Now it is only used when it rains or trips to the grocer.
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Over 200k
I've had this car only from around 190k. My thoughts are that if you're willing to get your own hands dirty then it'll keep going without burning holes in your pockets This forum is a life saver in that regard. Very worthwhile conducting your own inspections because some mechanics seem disinclined to take preventative measures. It's your pride n joy, not theirs I guess .
I find it a lot easier to work on than other cars too.