well i will try this again. spent about half an hour, hit submit key and my post did not take.

while i may have a compression problem, could be cylinder wash or the dreaded break-up of secondary tensioners. my goal is to try to diagnose the "crank but no start" problem i have.

one suggestion was to bleed fuel from schroder valve to see if fuel pump is working. located what looks like tire valve in rear of engine near intake/throttle body i believe. as i have the battery up wanted to see if car is getting fuel. tried removing this cap but can't get it off/unscrew. am i looking in the right place?

also want to check the quality of the gas, someone mentioned a test port. where is it?also want to check the number one plug. for am i getting spark? looks like coils are under elongated cover. Can i get to the plug(s) by just removing this cover?

also should i put code reader on the car to see if anything was stored when the problem happened. i tried starting the car with the battery down but it would not start. i charged the battery the car started briefly/jerked-shimmied but quickly shut down and i have not tried re-starting since.

i can try the oil in cylinder trick if its cylinder wash....but do i have to remove valve covers?....frankly i am scared to death to try to start the car again based on the feedback i received so far. i did quite a bit of research on loss of compression issues and frankly the suggestions seem to fall in two camps. one the one hand some say take the valve covers off, check the chains, condition of secondarys/timing. the other camp says ok to do some preliminary trouble shooting.

as i don't use the car in the winter (regrettably the problem emerged just as i was ready to move the car in the garage and pull the battery.) if it is in fact the secondarys or chain that has jumped (crossing my fingers there is no valve/piston damage)....i would farm this out.....as checking for the issues mentioned above(fuel quality,spark, fuel pump) doesn't involve turning the key and trying to start....i think i can try this at least....

 

The schreader valve is on the fuel rail. Other valve caps are likely A/C.

I recall reading about some one trying to start a car with a discharged battery and either going into immobilization or damaging the ECU. I can't recall the exact details right now. Can others help?

 

Just found schrader valve location in XJ8. It's at rear of right fuel rail.

The plugs and coils are under the cover with six screws.

 

Just to clarify, the coils are under the coil covers which are attached to the top of the valve covers by six little bolts -8mm, I think, and some of them have probably been tightened too tight and have cracked the coil covers. The coils are each attached by two little bolts and will need to come out to get at the plugs. It does sound like bore wash that you have.

 

Your problem sounds like a classic cylinder wash problem (lack of oil in the cylinder bore for the compression rings to create compression). before pulling the plugs and putting oil in four cylinders - one bank - with an eye dropper, follow the instructions that RJ237 gave RussG last weekend:

"The bore wash is a common problem. . . .

Just to be sure you have fuel, find the schrader valve on the fuel rail {Jhartz:rear of right fuel rail}, stuff a rag under it and depress the stem with the ignition on (position 2). If you get a good spurt of fuel you know the pump is likely okay.

Then press the gas pedal to the floor to shut off the injectors and turn the engine over for several 10 sec. bursts {Jhartz: this pumps oil in the cylinders without gas to wash down what little oil is pumped}, ease up on the pedal {this provides gas for igniting} and see if it starts.

The final cure for bore wash is to remove the plugs from one bank. pour about 1/2 tsp. oil into each cylinder, button it back up and try to start. Expect a lot of white smoke if it does start."

If either of these techniques work, let us know and post comments on RussG's thread as well, please.

 

well it looks like we have much support for this(cylinder wash) as a possibility.... my thanks to rj,jimmy and jhartz......the ecu is fine......when i turn the key it tells me the trunk is open (when i am charging)...or door is open....when its open....won't hurt if /before .....i charge....to do cold reset....and set back to factory settings..

i did read the russ g thread......when you say....location of scherader valve on rear,right fuel rail.....is this the passenger side?....anyone have a picture of it?

 

i found it......when i depress the pin....and with key in second position......it squirts....so i am thinking .....fuel pump ok.....next on to plug(s)....condition....but won't be messing with it....for a while......temperature plunging here....thanks again....