I recently replaced a hose clamp that failed, allowing my coolant level to nosedive. When we replaced the clamps, added the necessary amount of coolant, and fired the engine up, the car went into fail safe engine mode, asc traction unavailable, and no abs. I am getting both the amber and red light. The car's idle is erratic, and rough. Does anyone know what I can do to clear these codes and restore the smooth operation of this car that was present before the coolant ran low? I am about 175 miles from my dealer, and would like to clear these on my own. Later, I can have the dealer check it over for anything else. Thanks, Louis

 

Does it throw any fault codes? Put an OBD II scanner on it and let us know if any codes are stored.

 

I do not believe the low coolant can DIRECTLY cause the ABS or failsafe fault. Furthermore, I know of no failsafe mode that requires reset with the code reader (only keyswitch cycle). Either you have a coincidental condition, one caused by coolant blowing around the engine bay, or you have seriously screwed up the engine whilst running hot. I hope it is not the latter.
Meaculpa is exactly right- Get the codes read and see what's happening.

 

I did get coolant all over the firewall and back of the engine when the guy who helped me took the radiator cap off to check if we needed to add any and it spewed coolant. Maybe this is my problem. Sparkenzap, are you saying I can reset the failsafe mode by a keyswitch cycle? If so, could you tell me how to do this?

 

Bet you is the knock sensor/s...they got wet.

 

Thanks meaculpa. Can you tell me where they're located, and what I can do with them? Would you try to dry them out, or let them simply air dry and try it later? Do you think the hard reset procedure might clear the failsafe? Thanks, Louis

 

I hate being meaculpa's stooge, but I would double down on that bet. Dry out the two two wire plugs at the front of the engine above the cam covers and wait foer the engine to dry. Then see what happens. In the mean time, just to prove us right or wrong (not likely) get the codes read!

"keyswitch cycle? If so, could you tell me how to do this? " - turn the key off, then on.

 

Jag needs better plugs.

Get the codes read. Many problems come from wet getting into the sensor connections.

Start with the 4 wire connector at the Throttle Body. Press the lock inward to remove it. Spray the pins that you see and into the plug with WD-40. Connect and disconnect it several times to clean it. Fire it up and see if that fixed it. Next do the same to the MAF sensor plug.

 

Here's a good write up on knock sensors by our friend from Deutschland, David:
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/s...ad.php?t=45963

 

Thanks sparkenzap and Glendoramike. I really appreciate both of you guys' input. Since talking to you all,I bet that's what it is. The mechanic even wanted me to turn a hose on this area to rid the engine bay of coolant. I am thankful I didn't after talking to you. It spewed out all around the throttle body the surrounding area near the radiator cap. I am so proud of this car, like the rest of us are about our own Jags. I've only had it since January, so my ownership is in its infancy. I am downloading a service manual as I type. I am going to go try what you suggested right now. Thank you all, Louis

 

The dealer is not the only one who can read your codes. Go to AutoZone, PepBoys, Sears or whatever and read the codes that way you will have a little direction. Did the water / antifreeze leak around the TB?

 

Gus, yes it did. None went down into the TB, but it definitely got it wet around that area. Do you think I should dry that area and perhaps use some electrical cleaner around some plugged in parts as well? Thank you Gus

 

I should go buy a scanner this evening to have if I can locate one that will read Jaguar codes. We have all the discount auto parts stores such as Autozone, Advance, O'Reilly's etc.

 

Usually you will get generic codes from your Jag. The manufacturer codes are less common. P1000 and P1111 are Jag codes, but others can use them too. Ford's P1000 is the same as Jag's but the P1111 is a little different.

Decide if you are going to be a Do It Yourself person or just want a heads up before going to the shop. If you are an a little of both the Equus 3040 can be had for around $80. It will put out the codes and it will let you look at the data as it is happening AKA: "Live Data."

I went with an Equus 3130 ($130 online, list $311) since I can do the vast majority of repair work. The CD that comes with it puts manufacturer's code on your computer and Jag is included, same for the 3040. You can compare at www.iequus.com

Forget spending extra for a code reader that has the Jag definitions built in. You won't need that much and sites like www.canobd2.com have the definitions, the location of the plug, service bulletins and more. Look at www.alldatadiy.com for how to do it and service bulletins.

 

Glendoramike:
How successful have you been reading your ABS and transmission codes with the Equus?

 

You should go and get the codes but from what you are saying and if I were to guess I would say the TB plugs http://www.gusglikas.com/AutoRepTB.htm I would use CRC contact cleaner and check the tightness of the connections. I apply CRC Dielectric grease in moderacy. I hope this helps!

 

You can spend a little or a lot on an OBD II reader. My suggestion for you is do your homework and get the tool you can afford that meets your needs. I have one that cost me $30.00 and does just fine. This link will help you in identifying the many that are available and they change every day like TV’s and Computers… https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/s...ad.php?t=33347 I hope this helps!

 

The Equus 3130 will read trans codes, the 3040 won't. Watch out for the ones that say they can read ABS codes. Most of them will only read the codes for the most popular makes and that leaves Jag out. Many Auto parts places handle the Equus line. Snap-on Tools is one.

Get the book HAYNES TECHBOOK OBD-II & ELECTRONIC ENGINE MANAGEMENT SYSTEMS. It give you tests that you can run on the OBD-II components. All vehicles in the US since 1996 have to have the OBD-II system. There isn't that much difference in the parts among the manufacturers. The book will help you understand what goes on.

 

So the Equus 3130 reads Jaguar ABS codes?
I know the AutoEnginuity one with Jag extensions does. And there sure seem to be a bunch of threads that start as ABS Not Available, and the advice goes to a battery change, which DOES reset the message, but a lot of them report back that the message comes back! I suspect it does fopr most. The scanner will tell you if you have a wheel sensor fault or the motor open circuit problem.
But, like Gus says, a $30.00 reader will do fine for many fo;ks.

 

No the Equus 3130 doesn't read ABS unless you get the $99 upgrade done to it. Check with the manufacturers to make sure that theirs will read a Jag. On another thread here the ABS problems crop up and the fixes don't fix. Sometimes it takes the old "seen that before" to 'Git R Done."

Always check the stupid stuff first. WIRING FIRST, THEN WIRING SECOND THEN WIRING THIRD. Switching out parts due to codes can bite your wallet big time.