Misfires on all 8 cylinders
#21
Newbie here!
Have just replaced the thermostat tower and the heater and breather pipes lurking under the manifold. Obviously, manifold was removed. Re-assembled with new manifold gaskets. Difficult to start first time, started OK. No power, no revs but idle just a little lumpy. Codes 1316 and 0301-0308 displayed. Checked plugs on one bank and all clean and the right colour. Old Mike, what was the cause of the problem with yours?
Have just replaced the thermostat tower and the heater and breather pipes lurking under the manifold. Obviously, manifold was removed. Re-assembled with new manifold gaskets. Difficult to start first time, started OK. No power, no revs but idle just a little lumpy. Codes 1316 and 0301-0308 displayed. Checked plugs on one bank and all clean and the right colour. Old Mike, what was the cause of the problem with yours?
#22
#24
Yes, it was an air leak -- you could hear it with the hood/bonnet open and the engine running. At one point, I got the error message to go away by doing a hard reset, but it came back after driving just a few miles.
I forgot to mention that he also took the fuel rails out and said he needed new gaskets for those, too. Jaguar doesn't sell the gaskets, so he quoted me a price of about $200 per injector and said I needed all eight of them! I told him he was nuts and insisted that he re-use the old gaskets. I did find a set on ebay for about $35. I think I still have them around here somewhere and figured I'd use them if the problem comes back.
I forgot to mention that he also took the fuel rails out and said he needed new gaskets for those, too. Jaguar doesn't sell the gaskets, so he quoted me a price of about $200 per injector and said I needed all eight of them! I told him he was nuts and insisted that he re-use the old gaskets. I did find a set on ebay for about $35. I think I still have them around here somewhere and figured I'd use them if the problem comes back.
Last edited by OldMike; 09-23-2013 at 05:14 PM.
#25
For the archives, this is a good reason NOT to follow the repair manual's direction to remove the intake manifold ro replace the thermostat tower. Just break it off with pliers (you are installing a new metal one anyway) and then you can get to the bolts. Replace the bolts with socket head capscrews and be done with it!
The following 2 users liked this post by sparkenzap:
1999 xj8 fan (09-23-2013),
Thermite (10-13-2013)
#26
I would have been surprised if he did not break the part load breather hose...old ones are usually very brittle.
Unfortunately these gaskets are not reusable. They are rather low quality in my opinion too. Any time you remove a manifold in the future, always use new gaskets, costly, but the cheapest way to go. I too learned this the hard way.
Unfortunately these gaskets are not reusable. They are rather low quality in my opinion too. Any time you remove a manifold in the future, always use new gaskets, costly, but the cheapest way to go. I too learned this the hard way.
#27
Well, idle is OK, as is moving from park to drive, but blipping the throttle causes all sorts of hesitation and spluttering. Attempting to drive results in a 10 mph crawl.
Part load breather has been replaced and disconnecting it does cause a change in idle so I think that is OK. The fuel rail and injectors were not removed from the manifold.
I am thinking that it could be the inlet pipe from the throttle body to the MAF as the sympptoms suggest that the "system" is not able to respond to opening the throttle. Removing it could have split it so air is bypassing the MAF. Much prefer MAP based fuelling as there are fewer joints to go wrong!
Part load breather has been replaced and disconnecting it does cause a change in idle so I think that is OK. The fuel rail and injectors were not removed from the manifold.
I am thinking that it could be the inlet pipe from the throttle body to the MAF as the sympptoms suggest that the "system" is not able to respond to opening the throttle. Removing it could have split it so air is bypassing the MAF. Much prefer MAP based fuelling as there are fewer joints to go wrong!
#29
Seems to be sorted.
Looks like it was an air leak at number 8 manifold to head where it had not properly seated. Dripped water onto each joint to hear number 8 give a sizzling noise as the water was drawn in.
Gave the MAF a clean too.
Car now is drivable. Good test run needed to recalibrate the ECU.
Thanks for your help, much better response than a certain other forum.
Looks like it was an air leak at number 8 manifold to head where it had not properly seated. Dripped water onto each joint to hear number 8 give a sizzling noise as the water was drawn in.
Gave the MAF a clean too.
Car now is drivable. Good test run needed to recalibrate the ECU.
Thanks for your help, much better response than a certain other forum.
#30
To put this one to bed,
The remaining misfire (not fault codes flagged) was due to a faulty new inlet manifold gasket.
All now replaced with blue ones made from what looks like silicone rubber. Thicker and softer then the previous green ones.
[URL=http://s83.photobucket.com/user/sheddist/media/badgasket.jpg.html]
Car drives properly once more.
The remaining misfire (not fault codes flagged) was due to a faulty new inlet manifold gasket.
All now replaced with blue ones made from what looks like silicone rubber. Thicker and softer then the previous green ones.
[URL=http://s83.photobucket.com/user/sheddist/media/badgasket.jpg.html]
Car drives properly once more.
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Thermite (10-13-2013)
#31
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