Multiple Codes on 2000 XJ8
#1
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This one is a doozy. I am a weekend mechanic with passable knowledge of cars so please bear with me.
History:
I've owned my 2000 XJ8 for about 4 or 5 yrs now. Since I bought it I've replaced the heater hose assembly (myself) and a few years ago I paid someone to replace the fuel pump. Within the past two years I had MAF codes reading on the car, but I used an MAF sensor cleaner and car was fine after that.
Problem:
Car was running fine, drove to a restaurant and then car wouldnt start after leaving restaurant. Car would try to start but would not turn over. Foot on accelerator prompted very rough start and very rough idling. When foot was removed, car would shut off.
Attempted to troubleshoot by checking on plugs. All the wells had oil in them! A lot of oil. For a quick fix to determine if plugs were the problem I replaced them anyway and attempted to start car again, same problem as above.
OBD scanner read the following codes:
P1111 - System Pass
P0102 - Mass or Volume Air Flow Circuit, Low Input
P0112 - Intake Air Temp Sensor 1 Circuit Low Input
P0305 - Cylinder 5 Misfire
P0306 - Cylinder 6 Misfire
P0308 - Cylinder 8 Misfire
P1314 - Misfire Rate Catalyst Damage Fault - Bank 2
Concerns:
I am working on the vehicle with limited funds, its been inoperable for almost 2 months now. I cant afford to tow it somewhere to diagnose and then not have it repaired because I cant afford it and then have to tow it back to my home, so Im trying to find out what the problem could be so if I do have to take my car in I know how not to get taken advantage of.
Initially I intended to replace the valve cover gaskets cause that is something I can do, but I couldnt get a straight answer from anyone as to how to get rid of the oil in the plug wells?!
Is it a cracked head? Someone mentioned that to me but wouldnt the vehicle start to overheat if that were the case? Or not even start? Could it be the head gasket?
Where should I go from here? Any suggestions or thoughts is much MUCH appreciated.
-Stacey
History:
I've owned my 2000 XJ8 for about 4 or 5 yrs now. Since I bought it I've replaced the heater hose assembly (myself) and a few years ago I paid someone to replace the fuel pump. Within the past two years I had MAF codes reading on the car, but I used an MAF sensor cleaner and car was fine after that.
Problem:
Car was running fine, drove to a restaurant and then car wouldnt start after leaving restaurant. Car would try to start but would not turn over. Foot on accelerator prompted very rough start and very rough idling. When foot was removed, car would shut off.
Attempted to troubleshoot by checking on plugs. All the wells had oil in them! A lot of oil. For a quick fix to determine if plugs were the problem I replaced them anyway and attempted to start car again, same problem as above.
OBD scanner read the following codes:
P1111 - System Pass
P0102 - Mass or Volume Air Flow Circuit, Low Input
P0112 - Intake Air Temp Sensor 1 Circuit Low Input
P0305 - Cylinder 5 Misfire
P0306 - Cylinder 6 Misfire
P0308 - Cylinder 8 Misfire
P1314 - Misfire Rate Catalyst Damage Fault - Bank 2
Concerns:
I am working on the vehicle with limited funds, its been inoperable for almost 2 months now. I cant afford to tow it somewhere to diagnose and then not have it repaired because I cant afford it and then have to tow it back to my home, so Im trying to find out what the problem could be so if I do have to take my car in I know how not to get taken advantage of.
Initially I intended to replace the valve cover gaskets cause that is something I can do, but I couldnt get a straight answer from anyone as to how to get rid of the oil in the plug wells?!
Is it a cracked head? Someone mentioned that to me but wouldnt the vehicle start to overheat if that were the case? Or not even start? Could it be the head gasket?
Where should I go from here? Any suggestions or thoughts is much MUCH appreciated.
-Stacey
#2
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Lots of issues identified. I'm surprised that you got P1111 plus other codes. P1111 indicates that all is well in the world.
Lets start with oil in spark plug wells. I assume that if you replaced the plugs you sucked the oil out or let it run into the cylinders. I used a turkey baster, a piece of hardware store plastic tubing and a hobby 1/8" copper tube to get mine out. The valve cover gaskets are less than $40, both sides, if you buy the FelPro Lincoln LS 3.9L 2003 MY version. Well over a hundred at the Jaguar store.
While you have the covers off verify that you have the metal cam chain tensioners. If not, fix them first. That will also verify that you have not jumped a timing tooth. The Lincoln LS 3.9L 2003 tensioners also work well at significantly less than Jaguar boxed ones ($120).
Not head gaskets.
Got a fully charged battery? If cranking draws voltage below 10v that creates all sorts of other issues.
Check the electrical connectors on the throttle body. Remove, clean, apply dielectric grease, reinstall.
That will take care of the initial stuff. Come back after that.
Lets start with oil in spark plug wells. I assume that if you replaced the plugs you sucked the oil out or let it run into the cylinders. I used a turkey baster, a piece of hardware store plastic tubing and a hobby 1/8" copper tube to get mine out. The valve cover gaskets are less than $40, both sides, if you buy the FelPro Lincoln LS 3.9L 2003 MY version. Well over a hundred at the Jaguar store.
While you have the covers off verify that you have the metal cam chain tensioners. If not, fix them first. That will also verify that you have not jumped a timing tooth. The Lincoln LS 3.9L 2003 tensioners also work well at significantly less than Jaguar boxed ones ($120).
Not head gaskets.
Got a fully charged battery? If cranking draws voltage below 10v that creates all sorts of other issues.
Check the electrical connectors on the throttle body. Remove, clean, apply dielectric grease, reinstall.
That will take care of the initial stuff. Come back after that.
#3
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Sounds like the secondary chain on one of the banks is broken. Good news is that it broke at cranking speed so there is a good chance that the exhaust cam stopped in a safe place and no valves are bent. (not always the case but 8 out of 10 has been my experience).
Pull the cam covers to know for sure and if one of the secondary chains is broken, pull the exhaust cam, tensioner and chain pieces, perform a compression test and hope for a reading way above zero.
A ZERO on any cylinder(s) reading means 'head-off'
To get the oil out of the plug wells I use a long blow gun nozzle and some rags to keep the oil out of my eyes. Some brake cleaner and another round of compressed air and rags.
If the oil is clean you can just pull the plugs and let the oil drain into the cylinder. You will probably have to add some to get a good compression reading anyway.
bob gauff
Pull the cam covers to know for sure and if one of the secondary chains is broken, pull the exhaust cam, tensioner and chain pieces, perform a compression test and hope for a reading way above zero.
A ZERO on any cylinder(s) reading means 'head-off'
To get the oil out of the plug wells I use a long blow gun nozzle and some rags to keep the oil out of my eyes. Some brake cleaner and another round of compressed air and rags.
If the oil is clean you can just pull the plugs and let the oil drain into the cylinder. You will probably have to add some to get a good compression reading anyway.
bob gauff
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