My car is driving me crazy!
#1
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We'll probably break down before we get there LOL
My 1998 XJR has been pretty much trouble free for 30,000 miles and three years that I have owned it.
I was sick and couldnt drive it for about 5 months and it sat outside in the driveway...
Now that I can drive again...
I find that the car has two Inches of water in the right side (passenger) board front and back. I dont know where its coming from.
No heat.
Climate system refuses to blow hot air out.
It was working as designed when it was parked...
And now...I have the dreaded restriced performance light along with Check engine. It seems like for the first tens minutes or so of driving, on the first start of the day, the car seems like its missing, or only running on like seven cylinders or so....then all of a sudden the restricted performance light will go off, and the car will run like normal....till the next time..
Also while having the car at the Local Jaguar dealer Having the Hood Opened (550.00us +price of cable) the abs trac not avaible message was on when I picked up the car. It wasnt on when I dropped it off, but since the car is 13 yrs old with 130,000 miles I can understand....The dealer wants 1800.00 dollars for a new module, but says they can be rebuilt for less...is that true? how much less? By who?
Heres the codes
P1000
P0036
p1316
p0306
p0206
I know my car is getting old, but I like it better than the 2004 body style I think. Is it worth trying to keep up with it maintenance wise, specially since Im not a mechanic,
or should I start looking at a newer car?
Other than those issues, my car is pretty nice lol and it looks great.
My plan was to put new/different front seats in it and drive it to at least 200,000 miles. I had 175,000 miles on my xj6 when I sold it... any help would be appreciated
My 1998 XJR has been pretty much trouble free for 30,000 miles and three years that I have owned it.
I was sick and couldnt drive it for about 5 months and it sat outside in the driveway...
Now that I can drive again...
I find that the car has two Inches of water in the right side (passenger) board front and back. I dont know where its coming from.
No heat.
Climate system refuses to blow hot air out.
It was working as designed when it was parked...
And now...I have the dreaded restriced performance light along with Check engine. It seems like for the first tens minutes or so of driving, on the first start of the day, the car seems like its missing, or only running on like seven cylinders or so....then all of a sudden the restricted performance light will go off, and the car will run like normal....till the next time..
Also while having the car at the Local Jaguar dealer Having the Hood Opened (550.00us +price of cable) the abs trac not avaible message was on when I picked up the car. It wasnt on when I dropped it off, but since the car is 13 yrs old with 130,000 miles I can understand....The dealer wants 1800.00 dollars for a new module, but says they can be rebuilt for less...is that true? how much less? By who?
Heres the codes
P1000
P0036
p1316
p0306
p0206
I know my car is getting old, but I like it better than the 2004 body style I think. Is it worth trying to keep up with it maintenance wise, specially since Im not a mechanic,
or should I start looking at a newer car?
Other than those issues, my car is pretty nice lol and it looks great.
My plan was to put new/different front seats in it and drive it to at least 200,000 miles. I had 175,000 miles on my xj6 when I sold it... any help would be appreciated
#2
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Possible explanations:
Water on floor and no heat - leaking heater core? Or the no heat is unrelated, and the sunroof, a door or a window seal leaked during storms.
P1000 - OBD codes were reset and vehicle has not completed the self tests - takes 50 miles or so of driving... who reset the OBD codes? The dealer?
P0036 - does not seem to exist - wrong code?
P0306 - Misfire in cylinder #6 (B2)
P0206 - Fuel injector circuit malfunction in cylinder #6 (B2) - this would also cause the missfire in #6 - possible plugged injector?
P1316 - Misfire excessive emission - can be caused by fuel injector issues, so this jives with the P0306 and P0206.
I'd suggest you have a fuel injector issue - plugged or stuck open, on cylinder #6 (B2). Leaving a car sitting, unused for 5 months just causes problems at times.
Do not let the dealer replace ANY modules until you have exhausted searching for the possible causes... they often replace them first, then when the problem still exists, they'll work at finding the real issue. In your case, Restricted Performance and ABS and Trac control errors are common when something other than the module itself is causing the problem. Take care of the injector related miss, reset codes again and see if all has returned to normal.
If you still have the ABS and Trac error, it is common for a pair of solder joints inside the ABS module to fail - the module can be removed without too much effort and sent off for repair for just over $100.
Water on floor and no heat - leaking heater core? Or the no heat is unrelated, and the sunroof, a door or a window seal leaked during storms.
P1000 - OBD codes were reset and vehicle has not completed the self tests - takes 50 miles or so of driving... who reset the OBD codes? The dealer?
P0036 - does not seem to exist - wrong code?
P0306 - Misfire in cylinder #6 (B2)
P0206 - Fuel injector circuit malfunction in cylinder #6 (B2) - this would also cause the missfire in #6 - possible plugged injector?
P1316 - Misfire excessive emission - can be caused by fuel injector issues, so this jives with the P0306 and P0206.
I'd suggest you have a fuel injector issue - plugged or stuck open, on cylinder #6 (B2). Leaving a car sitting, unused for 5 months just causes problems at times.
Do not let the dealer replace ANY modules until you have exhausted searching for the possible causes... they often replace them first, then when the problem still exists, they'll work at finding the real issue. In your case, Restricted Performance and ABS and Trac control errors are common when something other than the module itself is causing the problem. Take care of the injector related miss, reset codes again and see if all has returned to normal.
If you still have the ABS and Trac error, it is common for a pair of solder joints inside the ABS module to fail - the module can be removed without too much effort and sent off for repair for just over $100.
Last edited by QuadManiac; 04-29-2011 at 06:04 PM.
#3
#4
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Why would this sound like a cpu (ECM) problem? There is an injector fault, causing a misfire, causing excessive emissions... a completely logical progression of events which point to a problem with the #6 injector, with the ECM monitoring and reporting everything correctly. Three different ECM controlled sensor systems are all pointing to the same suspect.
Last edited by QuadManiac; 04-30-2011 at 01:25 AM.
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Mayday30 (06-27-2011)
#5
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As to the wate ron the floor- was the car parked outside? If so, I suspect anti-freeze would not be confused with water and the sunroof drains are plugged, a tiny, easy fix. I believe the car has a few "issues" but this gentlemen's plight is why I say that these cars are moneypits IF YOU ARE NOT IN A POSITION TO WORK ON THEM YOURSELF. If you are, they can be fantastic deals. Notice that when the argument comes up about the relative cost, most folks saying they are not expensive to maintain are the ones on here all the time. They are enthusiasts who forget they rodded out their sunroof hose, they cleaned their MAF, they rodded their part load connector, they tightened their intake plenum clamp and on and on.
I agree with Quadmaniac, there is no good indication this is a cpu issue or anything like that. the diagnostic procedure says it is an electrical circuit malfunction on injector 6 why not look for an electrical malfunction on injector 6? That would cause the codes, and, properly, the restricted performance so as not to burn something with a lean burn condition.
The no heat is potentially a plugged matrix (not the end of the world, or a stuck valve, or a bad pum, all some $ but not $1800!
XJRpilot:
I agree with you about styling and really liking this model. I suggest you try to find a good independent mechanic or even an enthusiast to help you out. You didn;t say where you live, but there are alternatives to the dealers, who generally give first class service but at a cost. Your problems could be quite minor, just an accumulation of some small issues, or by the descriptions, they could cost some major bucks to figure out. I recommend attacking them one at a time, maybe getting your hands dirty, if you are in a position to do that, nd I bet you come in way south of $1000.
I agree with Quadmaniac, there is no good indication this is a cpu issue or anything like that. the diagnostic procedure says it is an electrical circuit malfunction on injector 6 why not look for an electrical malfunction on injector 6? That would cause the codes, and, properly, the restricted performance so as not to burn something with a lean burn condition.
The no heat is potentially a plugged matrix (not the end of the world, or a stuck valve, or a bad pum, all some $ but not $1800!
XJRpilot:
I agree with you about styling and really liking this model. I suggest you try to find a good independent mechanic or even an enthusiast to help you out. You didn;t say where you live, but there are alternatives to the dealers, who generally give first class service but at a cost. Your problems could be quite minor, just an accumulation of some small issues, or by the descriptions, they could cost some major bucks to figure out. I recommend attacking them one at a time, maybe getting your hands dirty, if you are in a position to do that, nd I bet you come in way south of $1000.
Last edited by sparkenzap; 04-30-2011 at 06:54 AM.
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xjrpilot (05-02-2011)
#6
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As to the wate ron the floor- was the car parked outside? If so, I suspect anti-freeze would not be confused with water and the sunroof drains are plugged, a tiny, easy fix. I believe the car has a few "issues" but this gentlemen's plight is why I say that these cars are moneypits IF YOU ARE NOT IN A POSITION TO WORK ON THEM YOURSELF. If you are, they can be fantastic deals. Notice that when the argument comes up about the relative cost, most folks saying they are not expensive to maintain are the ones on here all the time. They are enthusiasts who forget they rodded out their sunroof hose, they cleaned their MAF, they rodded their part load connector, they tightened their intake plenum clamp and on and on.
I agree with Quadmaniac, there is no good indication this is a cpu issue or anything like that. the diagnostic procedure says it is an electrical circuit malfunction on injector 6 why not look for an electrical malfunction on injector 6? That would cause the codes, and, properly, the restricted performance so as not to burn something with a lean burn condition.
The no heat is potentially a plugged matrix (not the end of the world, or a stuck valve, or a bad pum, all some $ but not $1800!
XJRpilot:
I agree with you about styling and really liking this model. I suggest you try to find a good independent mechanic or even an enthusiast to help you out. You didn;t say where you live, but there are alternatives to the dealers, who generally give first class service but at a cost. Your problems could be quite minor, just an accumulation of some small issues, or by the descriptions, they could cost some major bucks to figure out. I recommend attacking them one at a time, maybe getting your hands dirty, if you are in a position to do that, nd I bet you come in way south of $1000.
I agree with Quadmaniac, there is no good indication this is a cpu issue or anything like that. the diagnostic procedure says it is an electrical circuit malfunction on injector 6 why not look for an electrical malfunction on injector 6? That would cause the codes, and, properly, the restricted performance so as not to burn something with a lean burn condition.
The no heat is potentially a plugged matrix (not the end of the world, or a stuck valve, or a bad pum, all some $ but not $1800!
XJRpilot:
I agree with you about styling and really liking this model. I suggest you try to find a good independent mechanic or even an enthusiast to help you out. You didn;t say where you live, but there are alternatives to the dealers, who generally give first class service but at a cost. Your problems could be quite minor, just an accumulation of some small issues, or by the descriptions, they could cost some major bucks to figure out. I recommend attacking them one at a time, maybe getting your hands dirty, if you are in a position to do that, nd I bet you come in way south of $1000.
I wasnt really all that impressed with my Jag dealers service..Sure they gave me a loaner car.. (land rover LR2 couldnt wait to get outta that thing) I asked him about the issues I was having about my car. The service writer didnt really seem to know anything. Just looked at me like an open wallet. I guess thats how I know I still love my car even though shes starting to embarass me now. I survived a life-threatning Illness, Im not going to let this car get the better of me now.
With that said, What do I do now? LOL ?
as you can see I need help
Bill
#7
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Bill:
OK- If you ask questions in a manner like you do, you will get a lot of help. If you do not understand, ask for clarification. It ususlly does not help to bitch about the car here- we ar emostly enthsiasts, but other than that folks will lead you through stuff. I don't know any Jag folks in Louisville, but I bet you might find somone to help-
Well, let me see. 1) Was the liquid in your floorboard water? not antifreeze? You do have coolant rather than water in the radiator, right?
If it was water and your car was outside, you need to be looking for something to roor out a hose- like a wire about the size and stiffness of a wire coat hanger, only abuut 3 or 4 feet long. I (or someone else) can get the exact location of the end of the drain hose and you need to just "rod it out".
As to the heat- well let'sd leave that for now. Its almost summer and you can warm up with a cup of cofee.
The injector in question is the second one back on the left hand side. Look around the top of the engine just inside of the left valve cover for broken wires , unplugged connectors or where, no kiddin, a rat or squirrel might have chewed on something. Anything lokamiss.
Let's get these before we tackle the ABS, OK?
OK- If you ask questions in a manner like you do, you will get a lot of help. If you do not understand, ask for clarification. It ususlly does not help to bitch about the car here- we ar emostly enthsiasts, but other than that folks will lead you through stuff. I don't know any Jag folks in Louisville, but I bet you might find somone to help-
Well, let me see. 1) Was the liquid in your floorboard water? not antifreeze? You do have coolant rather than water in the radiator, right?
If it was water and your car was outside, you need to be looking for something to roor out a hose- like a wire about the size and stiffness of a wire coat hanger, only abuut 3 or 4 feet long. I (or someone else) can get the exact location of the end of the drain hose and you need to just "rod it out".
As to the heat- well let'sd leave that for now. Its almost summer and you can warm up with a cup of cofee.
The injector in question is the second one back on the left hand side. Look around the top of the engine just inside of the left valve cover for broken wires , unplugged connectors or where, no kiddin, a rat or squirrel might have chewed on something. Anything lokamiss.
Let's get these before we tackle the ABS, OK?
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xjrpilot (05-02-2011)
Trending Topics
#8
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Thanks again
Wouldve replied sooner but I went camping...drove the car again yesterday..same thing first ten minutes or so...restricted performance....after that...She was driving normally Ill check those wires. As far as the water goes It was just water....only on the pass side, seems like it was coming from underneath the dash? Like way underneath the dash area. I cleaned it up and it hasnt returned. No evidence of sunroof leaking but who knows?
Ross
Thanks for taking your time to help me appreciate it. If it is a bad injector, I just replace it right? rather find somemone to replace it?
Wouldve replied sooner but I went camping...drove the car again yesterday..same thing first ten minutes or so...restricted performance....after that...She was driving normally Ill check those wires. As far as the water goes It was just water....only on the pass side, seems like it was coming from underneath the dash? Like way underneath the dash area. I cleaned it up and it hasnt returned. No evidence of sunroof leaking but who knows?
Ross
Thanks for taking your time to help me appreciate it. If it is a bad injector, I just replace it right? rather find somemone to replace it?
#9
#10
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@ xjrpilot from where you describe the water's origins, it may be the hoses to and from the engine bay - they pass through the firewall into the heater matrix behind the dash.
If you can get down on your knees with the door open and pull the carpet down looking up into the footwell, you might locate it, feel around if one of the hoses is split (could have been a mouse?)
Did you get the passenger side dry? There's some fuses and relays in a fusebox in the rear passenger footwell, and a relay behind the front passenger kick panel. These fuses and relays need to be checked, along with the copper wire connectors to the fuse box. Again a bit of kneeling with a torch, or maybe get a youthful type to assist - have you got a handbook, this would help with what the fuses and relays are for, some might need changing if the car powered up damp.
A marginal battery throws the old ABS/TRAC unavailable, and second bet is the bad contacts within the module as mentioned by . So test the battery then get back to us on module service, I've read recently in this forum of a refurb company in the US that do an excellent job cheaply ($100 or less) and removal isn't master technician stuff, just the right tools and some careful, mild bending of brakelines.
The injector may just be a damp plug hole and contact to the coil, again, this is a simple case of strip and clean. If you don't fancy this work an honest Jag indie will no way bill you for $1800, which I would think will be the thin end of the wedge once the car is booked in.....
Hope this helps
If you can get down on your knees with the door open and pull the carpet down looking up into the footwell, you might locate it, feel around if one of the hoses is split (could have been a mouse?)
Did you get the passenger side dry? There's some fuses and relays in a fusebox in the rear passenger footwell, and a relay behind the front passenger kick panel. These fuses and relays need to be checked, along with the copper wire connectors to the fuse box. Again a bit of kneeling with a torch, or maybe get a youthful type to assist - have you got a handbook, this would help with what the fuses and relays are for, some might need changing if the car powered up damp.
A marginal battery throws the old ABS/TRAC unavailable, and second bet is the bad contacts within the module as mentioned by . So test the battery then get back to us on module service, I've read recently in this forum of a refurb company in the US that do an excellent job cheaply ($100 or less) and removal isn't master technician stuff, just the right tools and some careful, mild bending of brakelines.
The injector may just be a damp plug hole and contact to the coil, again, this is a simple case of strip and clean. If you don't fancy this work an honest Jag indie will no way bill you for $1800, which I would think will be the thin end of the wedge once the car is booked in.....
Hope this helps
Last edited by Sean B; 05-02-2011 at 04:38 PM.
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xjrpilot (05-02-2011)
#11
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Thanks Sean....Ill check those Hoses in the Morning if it Quits raining and I can find them....It just straight water though..not water/anti-freeze mix....I thought I read somewhere once about a flap for the climate control system getting stuck and causing a leak? NO? I replaced the battery already.
Before I got sick, I washed/had the car washed weekly, sometimes twice a week..which incuded vacuuming so maybe it was leaking all along, and I just never knew duh....
Ryan...Im in Jeffersonville. This is my third jag since 2004. Normally I just Lurk around and search the forums, buy my parts, and either have my friends (that I trust lol) install them... while I hover over them and harass them with print-outs from the forums. For the serious stuff, I buy my parts, and usually just take the car to the dealer. Yeah they rip me off, but I get some peace of mind. Ryan I need a hand so consider yourself Hit up LOL PM me if you want
Before I got sick, I washed/had the car washed weekly, sometimes twice a week..which incuded vacuuming so maybe it was leaking all along, and I just never knew duh....
Ryan...Im in Jeffersonville. This is my third jag since 2004. Normally I just Lurk around and search the forums, buy my parts, and either have my friends (that I trust lol) install them... while I hover over them and harass them with print-outs from the forums. For the serious stuff, I buy my parts, and usually just take the car to the dealer. Yeah they rip me off, but I get some peace of mind. Ryan I need a hand so consider yourself Hit up LOL PM me if you want
#12
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Bill:
I assume you know (maybe not>) that the sunroof does not actually seal around the outer edge. The watr that leaks in is channelled to drains in each corner. So, if the car was outside, you might very well have a plugged sunroof drain.
Dod you have a look on the left sid eof the engien? As Sean says, you might pull the B2 injector plug apart and clean it. I dont re,e,ber if you can unplug it in situ, but I will look in the morning. It is not an insignificant project to get the unjectors off.
I assume you know (maybe not>) that the sunroof does not actually seal around the outer edge. The watr that leaks in is channelled to drains in each corner. So, if the car was outside, you might very well have a plugged sunroof drain.
Dod you have a look on the left sid eof the engien? As Sean says, you might pull the B2 injector plug apart and clean it. I dont re,e,ber if you can unplug it in situ, but I will look in the morning. It is not an insignificant project to get the unjectors off.
#13
![Default](/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Check ebay for "Jaguar ABS computer repair" there's an outfit in Tennessee that you can ship it to, and they will test for all known problems fix and return (usually in less than a week). I had the same issue and sent the module to them, very professionally done and quick. Best 65.00 I've spent on the car. Are you getting the ABS light in the gauge cluster as well? If both the ABS light and warning messages are constant you most likely have a faulty module. But if you only have the warning messages, I'd check the wheel sensors and the circuit for each sensor. You have to pull the tires to pull the sensors, but cleaning is relatively easy. Checking the sensor circuits is simple as well if you have a multi-meter. 5 months is plenty of time for the contacts on the sensors to corrode a bit or get clogged with dust and residual grime. Each sensor also has an exposed wire harness leading from it that a critter could have chewed on. You'll get the warning messages if the module doesn't read each of the circuits during the start up system test, if the module is bad it will also throw the ABS warning light. I've also read that the TPS can cause both the restricted performance issue and the ASC/TRAC warnings - Something to do with the connector and tin connectors on one side / gold connectors on the other - Different metals when in contact with each other will create their own corroding effects- 5 months sitting could have allowed it to build to a point where you have a bad connection. The TPS is just one of a variety of components that reads the signal off the wheel sensors to accurately perform. Your 10 minute issue could be the car operating cold and the TPS not properly controlling throttle position. If it was mine, I'd pull the TPS connector and clean the contacts thoroughly, then move to wheel sensors and circuits if it didn't clear up. All of these are easier to check than the ABS module is to remove.
Last edited by bluerdg; 05-04-2011 at 06:13 PM.
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xjrpilot (05-04-2011)
#15
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Your car sitting in the driveway for 5 months I would say the water is from a clogged drain pipe below the windshield. As for the restricted performance it could be a number of things. Not knowing where you live I would venture to guess that a squirrel could have set up residency under the hood you could not get open. The ABS could be caused by contamination on the wheel sensors, a hungry animal or a poor connection in one of the connectors. The ABS (if it is the problem) could be rebuilt or you could make repairs yourself. It seems that the ABS module can be repaired by a simple re-solder of one of the circuit board contacts. As for the codes you have when was the last time you had your battery checked? A low or failing battery could be the cause of many of the problems you are experiencing. Get it checked before moving on any repairs. Your car wants to be driven!
#16
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I've don't have a dealer in my area, and the INDY shops are typically shaking their heads before I get in the door if I'm driving the Jag, BMW or Miata, so I've been doing my own work for a while. I found a friend researching my module issue - A jaguar tech that was more than willing to help. According to Louie: ABS gauge cluster light ONLY t- usually an ABS pump issue. ASC /TRAC unavailable warnings ONLY - usually a faulty wheel sensor(s) or a faulty sensor circuit harness. If both are present it usually means the module is faulty. The typical issue with the module is faulty solder points on the power connector at the PCB. No power = pump isn't operating and module isn't processing the sensor circuits during the system test. Dealers and some INDY shops will have the equipment to pull codes on the ABS system - Standard readers and AutoZone's free scan won't do it, but I've heard it can be pricey. ++1 on getting the battery checked, if nothing else - pull the terminals and give them both a good cleaning, fire her up and let her run a bit to get a good charge off the alternator. 5 months is a long time for it to sit, particularly if it didn't get the chance to run a bit every now and then.
#17
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Got it fixed.... My buddy who used to work as a Land rover tech, and now has his own indie shop...who I basically forgot about till I reconnected with him on Facebook....fixed it.
Basically, He said I had some vacuum Leaks. I had the injectors professionally cleaned before I took the car to him..didnt fix it but helped a little...
For a guy like me who cant do this work myself....I love knowing that my friend has delaership experience and knows what he's doing....the cool part...it cost way less than I figured and ole "carla" my car, is running just a strong as ever 132,000 and 13 years.
one thing though....I had him pull the abs/trac module cause I want to send it out to be repaired...I read that the car can be driven without it...My car wouldnt shift out of 2nd gear, and the speedo wouldnt work with the module disconnected. Did we do something wrong?
Now to track down this water leak.....It only leaks when it's raining.....
Basically, He said I had some vacuum Leaks. I had the injectors professionally cleaned before I took the car to him..didnt fix it but helped a little...
For a guy like me who cant do this work myself....I love knowing that my friend has delaership experience and knows what he's doing....the cool part...it cost way less than I figured and ole "carla" my car, is running just a strong as ever 132,000 and 13 years.
one thing though....I had him pull the abs/trac module cause I want to send it out to be repaired...I read that the car can be driven without it...My car wouldnt shift out of 2nd gear, and the speedo wouldnt work with the module disconnected. Did we do something wrong?
Now to track down this water leak.....It only leaks when it's raining.....
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