flat battery.

 

It may be a problem with cable adjustment or limit switches on top of the transmission. Does the P light up? Try starting in N.

 

brand new battery... I had started it before, when the fluid was low. when I shifted it then, the motor stalled. back in park, it started again. several times. but this time, I got the level up, it didn't stall. only until I was working back from second.

now, the only time I had taken the shifter through all gears prior, was before I put any fluid in, and it was with the motor off. I'll try disconnecting the shifter cable, and move it through the gears. then reconnect it.

let you know what I find tomorrow.

unless anyone has more ideas!

oh, it will not start in neutral either. I was wondering if maybe a code was registered in the control module that needs to be cleared to allow a start again.....

 

wild card- check to make sure your battery connections are tight and look at your bulkhead connector and ground straps.

 

Update: so, before i attempted to start Car, climbed under and looked. Found bolt loose where ground wire attached to transmission. When i filled transmission in wrong spot and had to move catalytic converter, I loosened it. After tightening, started car, ran through gears, same thing, died coming back from third to fourth.but started again! Got under and managed to add two more liters. Now shifts, and doesn't die. But upon going back from third to fourth, still get gearbox fault and restricted performance.. I turned off and restarted, is done as long as I only go to drive.

Changed oil and oil pressure sensor. (Separate issue) and filter. Dropped car, drove around building, nice power and smooth shifting.

I think the gearbox fault is coming from the cable alignment and maybe the shift sensor on the other side, being slightly off from each other. Causing computer to think there's an error.

Any ideas?

Jon

 

new update:

ok, finally got to drive my car more than a few miles. maybe it was upon warming up more, or maybe it's another issue. after I drove about 20 miles on the highway, and got back in redlight land, upon taking off at a redlight, transmission slipped and bumped going into third shift. it did this again at next takeoff, and caused a gearbox fault.

so as I've pointed out frequently, this is my first attempt, and may have done many things wrong. I did use the ZF repair manual. but when I removed the A clutch assembly, and found the only piece of metal missing from the drum, I opted to not tear the rest of the transmission apart.

also, I've read that the valve body has a pressure regulator part that causes overpressure, and can cause damage. I never saw good step by step instructions on rebuilding this, and saw someone say that with the reinforced a-drum, would be fine, so I opted to not do that either.

my old transmission is gone, but I did save the valve body out of it. is there a chance that I can rebuild that pressure regulator and exchange the valve body, and get this to work? or is there a chance that even with me topping off the fluids again, because I was alone, maybe the fluids from running through gears filled back into the pan by the time I got back under the car. maybe I just need to baby it to a transmission shop and pay someone to properly fill fluids...

starting to lose faith in my transmission skills.... not that I had any experience to lose...

Jon

 

Jon, have you checked the trans level?

I'd have probably done the same in finding the piece from the A drum, as long as the magnets in the base where clear of bits...anyway,

If a 'baggy' valve block caused the A drum failure, the valve block fault will still be there, it allows more fluid (pressure) than standard leading to harsh shifts and clunks into gear......leading to a damaged circlip then A drum...

There is a fix that's come to light recently a new valve and seal kit. If the valve body fault is a crack then the valve kit will not fix it and another valve block, with the kit should give you a good gearbox. You know the work to get at the valve block so inspection is the next step after level check, from that point you know the route to get it done. Lets hope it's low on fluid and don't doubt your work if it was by the book.

 

I haven't checked the fluid since driving yesterday. hopefully after work today, I can. but I need someone to assist... I'm thinking that, as I run the transmission through gears, the fluid is pulled up into the gears. by the time I put in park, get out, climb under car, re-insert pump hose, and squirt some more fluid in, the level has come back down. the first time I filled it, I did not know the motor was supposed to be left running. upon leaving it running, I managed to get an additional three and one half liters, for a total of 9.5.... not sure how much remained in my torque converter, but I should be getting very close to the proper amount of fluid.

will an OBD 2 code reader read the gearbox fault? I'm not sure if the fault is a pressure fault. it clears upon turning car off and back on. so I'll have to drive it around the block a time or two to get the fault back, then try reading it.

I still have the valve body from my original transmission, so if I buy a pressure regulator rebuild kit, and get good instructions, I should be able to swap them. but here's some info that's food for thought: upon watching the video by ZF for fluid filling, I noticed something. the transmission I bought used, I believe came from a 98 model, and had a green label on it. my original had a black label. by changing these out, could it cause issues? I also noticed that that video listed a different oil for the green label, but I still installed the lifeguard oil in the blue bottle. I could understand that causing a long term issue, but not in first fifty miles...

 

Jon, I wonder if you're checking the fluid level correctly. You should start with the engine and transmission near cold, run through the gears, then while in neutral and running remove the plug and and add fluid until it runs back out.
Then when the transmission fluid reaches 30-50 deg C top it off again and replace the plug while the engine is still running.
A popular way to check the fluid temp. is with a infra red gun, or buy a indoor/outdoor thermometer with a sensor that fits through the fill port.

Sean has mentioned a new type main pressure valve with seals. The link is below. Also a link to a pdf by ZF describing the location of the valve and valve bore inspection.

ZF 5HP24 TRANSMISSION PRESSURE REGULATOR VALVE KIT TRANSGO 5HP-24-PR FITS BMW A5S440Z JAGUAR AUDI ROVER - The American Powertrain Warehouse

http://www.jagrepair.com/images/Auto...%20ZF5HP24.pdf

 

oh, and what is a circlip?

 

A retaining ring. Google it and you'll see lots of pictures.

 

ah, the ring that holds the clutch disks in, in the groove that breaks in the drum.... on the same page now... different book maybe, but same page...

 

looking at the pressure regulator rebuild kit, why does it come with four seals? I see two grooves in the new piston design, where to the others go?

I've ordered this kit, just in case fluid level is not the issue. I've taken apart the original valve body, the cylinder walls appear to be ok. no visible crack, no horribly gritty feeling, piston seems to slide in and out relatively easy.

can I just take the part from the control unit, the valve body section, and attach it to the current control unit? without dropping the entire thing? or is there risk of bad alignment?

Jon

 

If you read the instructions you will see that two of the rings are placed on top of the others to compress them, then put in freezer until ready to insert.

As to second question: Do you mean can you swap the forward valve bodies without dropping the transmission? If so, answer is yes, but could there be a difference in other parts between the two?

 

ok, I just ordered the new pressure regulator kit, haven't got in the mail yet.

I was wondering if I could just take the section that the pressure regulator is on, and only take that section off, not the entire valve body, or what I was referring to as the entire control unit. maybe just that section is the valve body and the entire assembly is the control unit. forgive my lack of knowledge of parts. but in the picture that shows which one is the pressure regulator, that small section comes off of a much larger manifold, which I thought was called the control unit...

thanks again, to all for the help. I'm truly hoping that this is the last issue. otherwise, it's back to complete transmission disassembly.... not looking forward to that at All!!!!

 

If you look at the ZF pdf I linked in post#29, it shows the pressure valve is installed in the lower front valve body. That lower front valve body is the part you can swap. Here is the link again:

http://www.jagrepair.com/images/Auto...%20ZF5HP24.pdf

 

ok, Got new pressure regulator valve kit. installed in valve body, now just need to drop pan and swap out valve bodies. I'll keep you posted when I get it done!

 

How did you get the fluid in the tranny then? Did you fill it while it was out of the car?

If you didn't follow procedure, then it is probably low on fluid. That may not be the root of your problem, but the recommended fill procedure is written that way to ensure that fluid gets to all the parts of the tranny before you call it "full."
Vector

 

ok, this has been a long time coming, but I realized I never gave an update on this thing.

last we spoke, I was putting in the new pressure regulator, with seals. got that switched, and before I topped off the fluids, I noticed a drip at the front of the car. upon inspection, I noticed that one hose I put on rubbed the belt pulley, and it rubbed a hole right in a rubber section of the tranny cooling lines. grr... so I had a hose built at a hydraulic shop and installed it. I thought this was probably the root of the cause: driving twenty miles before slippage appeared. so, got that on, got the fluids back in it, and drove again. now, it shifted fine. well, first trip around twenty minutes, it's still slipping and bumping only when going from the first gear to the second. all other gears shift smoothly. when I first start the car in the morning, cold engine, it shifts flawlessly. except when going from park to reverse or drive, a little bump then. thought maybe I should have went ahead and put a new torque converter... could a torque converter cause it to slip and bump from only one gear? also, once it's warm, when I take off from a light, I'll accelerate firmly, when I see the tac drop, or shift, I'll let off the gas, give it a half second, and accelerate again, no bump. only when I'm accellerating through that first shift that it bumps. think this is still just a little too little or too much fluid?

Jon

2000 XJ8L, silver with black interior

 

Still slipping in only one gear when motor gets warm. any Ideas?

Jon

2000 XJ8L