My First XJ pics
#1
08-15-2017 | 09:21 PM
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From: chicago
My First XJ pics
Purchased this 2000 model with 75k on it. In very nice condition.
A couple issues of coarse but nothing to big at the moment.
Issue 1 when I turn the signal on all the lights go it for a second. Guessing this is
Loose wiring in the switch but you guys can chime in.
Second I seem to have a small coolant leak as I can smell it. I have not located it yet though.
A couple issues of coarse but nothing to big at the moment.
Issue 1 when I turn the signal on all the lights go it for a second. Guessing this is
Loose wiring in the switch but you guys can chime in.
Second I seem to have a small coolant leak as I can smell it. I have not located it yet though.
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Don B (08-23-2017)
#3
08-16-2017 | 01:45 AM
#4
08-16-2017 | 01:53 AM
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From: Bremen, Germany
Few things to keep in mind for a nice long XJ8/VDP life:
1. Replace plastic thermostat housing (and thermostat!) with aluminium one. Should cure the leak. The front crosspipe should be replaced with a new one at the same time as they are just as brittle as the thermostat housing.
2. Replace the rubber hoses in the V at the same time. They are most likely also leaky or at least dried out.
3. Got any details on the timing chain tensioners? If not, take the driver side valve cover off and check. If old style made of plastic, replace them all. Will save you from an expensive engine overhaul after a chain jump a tooth.
4. Replace tranny main pressure valve with Transgo valve. Will save you from an expensive repair.
These are the 4 most important parts on the XJ which really need to be kept in mind. The XJR/Super V8/Supercharged have slightly different points.
If all of these parts are replaced or even if the engine was replaced some time ago, great. If not, put them on your priority list and then at the top
1. Replace plastic thermostat housing (and thermostat!) with aluminium one. Should cure the leak. The front crosspipe should be replaced with a new one at the same time as they are just as brittle as the thermostat housing.
2. Replace the rubber hoses in the V at the same time. They are most likely also leaky or at least dried out.
3. Got any details on the timing chain tensioners? If not, take the driver side valve cover off and check. If old style made of plastic, replace them all. Will save you from an expensive engine overhaul after a chain jump a tooth.
4. Replace tranny main pressure valve with Transgo valve. Will save you from an expensive repair.
These are the 4 most important parts on the XJ which really need to be kept in mind. The XJR/Super V8/Supercharged have slightly different points.
If all of these parts are replaced or even if the engine was replaced some time ago, great. If not, put them on your priority list and then at the top
#5
08-16-2017 | 02:24 AM
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From: Lancashire, UK
#6
08-16-2017 | 02:31 PM
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From: chicago
Few things to keep in mind for a nice long XJ8/VDP life:
1. Replace plastic thermostat housing (and thermostat!) with aluminium one. Should cure the leak. The front crosspipe should be replaced with a new one at the same time as they are just as brittle as the thermostat housing.
2. Replace the rubber hoses in the V at the same time. They are most likely also leaky or at least dried out.
3. Got any details on the timing chain tensioners? If not, take the driver side valve cover off and check. If old style made of plastic, replace them all. Will save you from an expensive engine overhaul after a chain jump a tooth.
4. Replace tranny main pressure valve with Transgo valve. Will save you from an expensive repair.
These are the 4 most important parts on the XJ which really need to be kept in mind. The XJR/Super V8/Supercharged have slightly different points.
If all of these parts are replaced or even if the engine was replaced some time ago, great. If not, put them on your priority list and then at the top
1. Replace plastic thermostat housing (and thermostat!) with aluminium one. Should cure the leak. The front crosspipe should be replaced with a new one at the same time as they are just as brittle as the thermostat housing.
2. Replace the rubber hoses in the V at the same time. They are most likely also leaky or at least dried out.
3. Got any details on the timing chain tensioners? If not, take the driver side valve cover off and check. If old style made of plastic, replace them all. Will save you from an expensive engine overhaul after a chain jump a tooth.
4. Replace tranny main pressure valve with Transgo valve. Will save you from an expensive repair.
These are the 4 most important parts on the XJ which really need to be kept in mind. The XJR/Super V8/Supercharged have slightly different points.
If all of these parts are replaced or even if the engine was replaced some time ago, great. If not, put them on your priority list and then at the top
Thanks I will take care of these items asap.
I see the transgo valve on eBay so that's any easy find.
Any recommended parts source for the hoses tstat and housing ?
#7
08-16-2017 | 02:49 PM
Last edited by King Charles; 08-16-2017 at 02:59 PM.
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#8
08-16-2017 | 10:35 PM
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From: chicago
#9
08-16-2017 | 11:14 PM
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Jaguar-Vande...item2381b47f19
Last edited by King Charles; 08-16-2017 at 11:17 PM.
#10
08-18-2017 | 12:27 AM
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From: chicago
Pipe part #'s AJ85885 I got mine off E-Bay seller "partscontainer". Mine looked fine as well, until I replaced knock sensors & saw the dried coolant residue @ the base of the t-stat housing. It was weeping @ the seam, out of sight until you started digging.
Jaguar Vanden Plas XJ8 XJR XK8 Engine Outlet Coolant Pipe w/ Sensor OEM AJ85885 | eBay
Jaguar Vanden Plas XJ8 XJR XK8 Engine Outlet Coolant Pipe w/ Sensor OEM AJ85885 | eBay
That looks like a bit more work but I'm guessing they get cooked under there.
#11
08-18-2017 | 12:55 AM
#13
08-22-2017 | 10:11 PM
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From: chicago
#14
09-22-2017 | 09:25 AM
Thread Starter
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Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 174
Likes: 21
From: chicago
Few things to keep in mind for a nice long XJ8/VDP life:
1. Replace plastic thermostat housing (and thermostat!) with aluminium one. Should cure the leak. The front crosspipe should be replaced with a new one at the same time as they are just as brittle as the thermostat housing.
2. Replace the rubber hoses in the V at the same time. They are most likely also leaky or at least dried out.
3. Got any details on the timing chain tensioners? If not, take the driver side valve cover off and check. If old style made of plastic, replace them all. Will save you from an expensive engine overhaul after a chain jump a tooth.
4. Replace tranny main pressure valve with Transgo valve. Will save you from an expensive repair.
These are the 4 most important parts on the XJ which really need to be kept in mind. The XJR/Super V8/Supercharged have slightly different points.
If all of these parts are replaced or even if the engine was replaced some time ago, great. If not, put them on your priority list and then at the top
1. Replace plastic thermostat housing (and thermostat!) with aluminium one. Should cure the leak. The front crosspipe should be replaced with a new one at the same time as they are just as brittle as the thermostat housing.
2. Replace the rubber hoses in the V at the same time. They are most likely also leaky or at least dried out.
3. Got any details on the timing chain tensioners? If not, take the driver side valve cover off and check. If old style made of plastic, replace them all. Will save you from an expensive engine overhaul after a chain jump a tooth.
4. Replace tranny main pressure valve with Transgo valve. Will save you from an expensive repair.
These are the 4 most important parts on the XJ which really need to be kept in mind. The XJR/Super V8/Supercharged have slightly different points.
If all of these parts are replaced or even if the engine was replaced some time ago, great. If not, put them on your priority list and then at the top
What does the transgo valve do for me ?
#15
09-22-2017 | 10:44 AM
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Joined: Apr 2013
Posts: 3,499
Likes: 917
From: Virginia beach va
Lots of threads of fixing the leak at the cross over pipe (fragile), hoses and hose clamps; TST housing can be difficult to remove and restore (but lots of threads to make it easier). Pretty straight forward: might as well change the TST and water pump while you are at it. I had bad luck with water pumps: AC Delco was good.
Intermittent wiring is harder: you have a loose wire on the multifunction switch. Again lots of threads on how to remove the steering wheel and how to get at the switch. You will need the wiring diagram (in the stickies or Google it: I have posted it maybe ten times as has Bob Goff and others). A pencil thin soldering iron and at least three hands . . . . I had a set of medical suture tweazers for my third and fourth hand. But solved the problem.
Daim's Transmission fix is a good idea on this year model, but it is an expensive fix unless you are good at it with the right lift and tools. Maybe just wait until the box blows and get it rebuilt then. Price is about same, I think.
Whatever you decide to do, do not delay checking on the secondary tensioners. A MUST fix, unless you have paperwork that shows it has been done. An easy check. Tons of threads on how to do it and the cautions.
Once all of these issues are resolved, an exceptional car: I wish I had kept mine.
Intermittent wiring is harder: you have a loose wire on the multifunction switch. Again lots of threads on how to remove the steering wheel and how to get at the switch. You will need the wiring diagram (in the stickies or Google it: I have posted it maybe ten times as has Bob Goff and others). A pencil thin soldering iron and at least three hands . . . . I had a set of medical suture tweazers for my third and fourth hand. But solved the problem.
Daim's Transmission fix is a good idea on this year model, but it is an expensive fix unless you are good at it with the right lift and tools. Maybe just wait until the box blows and get it rebuilt then. Price is about same, I think.
Whatever you decide to do, do not delay checking on the secondary tensioners. A MUST fix, unless you have paperwork that shows it has been done. An easy check. Tons of threads on how to do it and the cautions.
Once all of these issues are resolved, an exceptional car: I wish I had kept mine.
Last edited by Jhartz; 09-22-2017 at 10:48 AM.
#16
09-22-2017 | 11:55 AM
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Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 4,792
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From: Sunny Southport UK
Re: the ZF gearbox, it has a well known issue regarding the solenoid valve block, valve wears a groove in the block, jams and leads to a pressure spike that busts a circlip holding the A drum - a driveline bang and it's trans rebuild - the kit can stop this by replacing the valve and seal. Much cheaper than a rebuild.
If you can do the job yourself it's just basic oil service stuff like fluid, filter and pan gasket - remove the valve block and offending valve, replace and refit with the kit. It's doable on axle stands in the driveway. Alternatively book it in to get the trans serviced and give them the kit to fit. Either way is a lot cheaper than waiting for it to happen, and it certainly will.
The timing job is easy done with the correct tools like crank puller and cam locking - loads of advice on the job, some have even used the zip tie method (in a pinch and knowing what you're doing). Fingers crossed when you remove a cam cover, they're already done.
The indicator stalk issue - another fault that gets more threads as these cars get older, it's 99% the wiring coming out of the stalk tube onto the steering wheel pcb, I've done auto lights, auto wiper, indicators etc and the 25-40W pencil tipped soldering iron fixes this as advised.
Methodically working through the bushes front to back once these jobs are done - then you can sleep at night knowing it's as it should be. You asked the right question at the right time.
If you can do the job yourself it's just basic oil service stuff like fluid, filter and pan gasket - remove the valve block and offending valve, replace and refit with the kit. It's doable on axle stands in the driveway. Alternatively book it in to get the trans serviced and give them the kit to fit. Either way is a lot cheaper than waiting for it to happen, and it certainly will.
The timing job is easy done with the correct tools like crank puller and cam locking - loads of advice on the job, some have even used the zip tie method (in a pinch and knowing what you're doing). Fingers crossed when you remove a cam cover, they're already done.
The indicator stalk issue - another fault that gets more threads as these cars get older, it's 99% the wiring coming out of the stalk tube onto the steering wheel pcb, I've done auto lights, auto wiper, indicators etc and the 25-40W pencil tipped soldering iron fixes this as advised.
Methodically working through the bushes front to back once these jobs are done - then you can sleep at night knowing it's as it should be. You asked the right question at the right time.
#17
09-22-2017 | 01:28 PM
Thread Starter
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Senior Member
Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 174
Likes: 21
From: chicago
Re: the ZF gearbox, it has a well known issue regarding the solenoid valve block, valve wears a groove in the block, jams and leads to a pressure spike that busts a circlip holding the A drum - a driveline bang and it's trans rebuild - the kit can stop this by replacing the valve and seal. Much cheaper than a rebuild.
If you can do the job yourself it's just basic oil service stuff like fluid, filter and pan gasket - remove the valve block and offending valve, replace and refit with the kit. It's doable on axle stands in the driveway. Alternatively book it in to get the trans serviced and give them the kit to fit. Either way is a lot cheaper than waiting for it to happen, and it certainly will.
The timing job is easy done with the correct tools like crank puller and cam locking - loads of advice on the job, some have even used the zip tie method (in a pinch and knowing what you're doing). Fingers crossed when you remove a cam cover, they're already done.
The indicator stalk issue - another fault that gets more threads as these cars get older, it's 99% the wiring coming out of the stalk tube onto the steering wheel pcb, I've done auto lights, auto wiper, indicators etc and the 25-40W pencil tipped soldering iron fixes this as advised.
Methodically working through the bushes front to back once these jobs are done - then you can sleep at night knowing it's as it should be. You asked the right question at the right time.
If you can do the job yourself it's just basic oil service stuff like fluid, filter and pan gasket - remove the valve block and offending valve, replace and refit with the kit. It's doable on axle stands in the driveway. Alternatively book it in to get the trans serviced and give them the kit to fit. Either way is a lot cheaper than waiting for it to happen, and it certainly will.
The timing job is easy done with the correct tools like crank puller and cam locking - loads of advice on the job, some have even used the zip tie method (in a pinch and knowing what you're doing). Fingers crossed when you remove a cam cover, they're already done.
The indicator stalk issue - another fault that gets more threads as these cars get older, it's 99% the wiring coming out of the stalk tube onto the steering wheel pcb, I've done auto lights, auto wiper, indicators etc and the 25-40W pencil tipped soldering iron fixes this as advised.
Methodically working through the bushes front to back once these jobs are done - then you can sleep at night knowing it's as it should be. You asked the right question at the right time.