Right, but can I use o-rings WITH the specific filter I want to purchase?? Guy up there was saying it uses copper washers instead.

 

I won't have my 4.0 X308 on the lift for a week.

I think the answer is a bit earlier in this thread by Peter about using O rings.

I will say that with the modern formulations of fuel, the O ring material is critical. Removing the O rings from my fuel Injectors I note those are blue or green in color and the fuel has deteriorated the surfaces, so have a look earlier in the thread.

 

40+ posts about this?

You cannot use copper washers with this car. Buy a filter that shows as fitting your model, buy o-rings that are the same size as stock, and install. This is not complicated.

 

Relax, newbie here. Unfortunately I need to be explained everything like a child. Not that I am one, but when it comes to Jags, I know little. This is my first ever Jag and I have no prior experience. Thanks.

 

@ StagByThriumph:
> Removing the O rings from my fuel Injectors I note those are blue or green in color and the fuel has deteriorated the surfaces, so have a look earlier in the thread.
I swapped those already. Can't remember though, if it was on the X308 or S-Type.
I found those as well on Aliexpress. Initially I measured the injector O-ring (small and fat) and ordered green NBR seal of the size I measured.
Then I noticed that they are even offering specifically O-rings for injectors, which were tiny fractions of millimeters different in size. And they were blue. I ordered those then. too.

 

Not to ruin the party, but using cheap chinese o-rings for out of all cars, a 23-year old Jaguar, sounds kind wrong to me. Have you time tested these rings?

 

Default@ Eric:
> Not to ruin the party, but using cheap chinese o-rings for out of all cars, a 23-year old Jaguar, sounds kind wrong to me. Have you time tested these rings?

It's O-rings! As I wrote before: They are made of a defined material. If the surface is damaged, you will see it before using them. Chinese companies most of the time do not have QC. Thus, flick the damaged one, and take the next one from the 10-pack.
So apparently you buy your O-Rings elsewhere. Did you do some research to proof that - wherever you are buying O-Rings - that those are NOT coming from the exact same manufacturer in China?

 

Wait I will respond to this later, I cannot figure out which side goes where for the filter, is the line that drips gas the in-line or the out-line??

 

never mind, everything is good to go. The car is running now. No leaks. Although, check, engine light is on, I connected my OBD and got a code P 1230, OBD says low fuel pump

 

You asked which way round with the filter...
Well, good that it is finally in and does not drip anymore - but do you have it in there the right way 'round?
There should be an arrow on the fuel filter. The arrow shows the direction of flow (obviously from the fuel tank to the engine...).

 

I put the "in" side to the line that was leaking, then the "out" side of the filter to the dry line. This is how the previous filter was on. One issue. The "broken" O-ring was INSIDE the filter, i tried to fish it out but only a shred of it came out. The O-ring on the other side just jumped off as soon as I pulled the filter off. I have no idea where it fell. So I couldn't compare sizes.

Fuel pump seems to be working fine. There's no power loss or jittering. As I stated before however, code P1230 is on now, and I assume it's because of the new filter. Unless it's because I de-pressurized the system and now the pump can't get the PSI back to normal?

 

Code P1230 means "Fuel pump relay malfunction". The code is not related to fuel pressure. If the relay is bad, you wouldn't be able to start the engine, unless your car has a supercharged engine which has two fuel pumps and two pump relays (the engine can still run on one pump).

 

But if the pump relay is working, and the pump itself is working, why the code?

 

Have you erased the code and driven the car?
Always start with a clean slate.
.
.
.

 

Thinking about it, I may have caused the code. I removed the fuel pump relay before I changed the filter so the pump would stop working, to depressurize the fuel system. Then after I changed the filter, I tried to start the car (Forgetting I removed the fuse) and obviously failed. Then I re-inserted the fuse and the car started, but with check engine light on. I'm assuming it's due to the fact that I tried to start it without the fuse, hence the code registered in the system.

 

Yes, that would be why. I saw all those posts above only now and I my first idea would have been like clubairth1's suggestion to clear all the old codes.
I mean that is what you do always: If there is any code, write it down, delete it and and see if it comes back - if not it was due to something which was wrong before the repair.

Deleting the old codes is something like:
“If you love something, set it free.If it comes back, it's yours.If not, it was never meant to be”
....only the opposite, hence:
“If you don't like something, set it free.If it comes back, it's yours.If not, it was never meant to be”