About a week and a half ago I picked up my new to me 2000 XJR (in the proper colour for a Jag). The car is barely broken in at $126k miles, but it does have a few things that need attending to.

 

Welcome to the wonderful world of Jaguar!

Looks like you have a lot of entertainment ahead of you.

Explore the 'stickies' above for down load links for the owner manual and JTIS.

 

Hello
I've found this on UK eBay I don't know if it is of use for your stereo. CTSJG001.2 Jaguar XJ8 1998-2003 Car ALPINE Stereo Steering Wheel Interface Kit | eBay

If you want to check the steering wheel controls out you will have to get the airbag off, which is dead easy. There are two torx screws on the back of the wheel you undo to release it. Turn the wheel to the left and undo from ABOVE the cowl then turn 180 to the right and repeat the airbag should now be loose. Carefully withdraw it and put it somewhere safe. MAKE SURE you disconnect the battery and wait at least 10 minutes before playing with the air bag though. You really don't want that firing in your face. Once removed you will be able to see the insides and the switches.

The 3rd brake light coming off is a common issue, people have tried all sorts of glues and not had much joy. Some have even gone so far to remove the light completely. The best thing I've found is an adhesive called "Chemical Metal" which you have to mix with hardener and work fast. Make sure both surfaces are as clean as you can get them and make sure you get it dead centre. I fixed mine 3 years ago and it's stuck fast.

The power antenna is a really easy thing to fix, you'd be better just getting a working one off ebay and fitting it, they really aren't that expensive.

The glovebox is an interesting one, all is not lost though. There are two gold coloured torx screws at just underneath the dash which secures it to fascia. Undo them and you may get enough swing to allow you to slip something thin between the body of the box and the door to pop the catches.

As far as engine oil changes go, these are the easiest cars ever to change the oil on. Jack up the front and secure on stands. Slide underneath the front and look towards the right side of the engine. There is a little plastic cover which is part of a cooling duct secured by a bolt. Undo this and behind it you will find the sump plug and oil filter. To drain the radiator there is a tap on the rear left side of the rad.

Transmission oil on an XJR is different to an XJ8 I think, as it is a Mercedes sourced box, it is worth getting a garage (shop) to do the transmission oil in my opinion.

I hope I've helped answer some of your questions.

Stu.

 

Thanks, that looks like it might be just what I need. It appears to be the wiring harness to connect the aftermarket stereo, and the adapter for the steering wheel controls all in one. The only thing I'm still unsure of is do these make use of the built in microphone for the phone and bluetooth, or do I have to use the ugly mic that comes with the stereo?

I'll give that stuff a try. I do kinda worry about making a mess of this and not being able to get a nice clean bead of glue on it, instead having globs or glue coming over the sides and looking ugly.

Yeah replacing the motor looks really easy. I first want to determine if the motor needs replacing or if it is just not getting power or something.

I'm thinking the only solution to this is to just replace the glove box (once I can get it open), it doesn't look like there would be away to just replace the handle unfortunately.

I know you should go to a shop for the trans so they can pump the fluid out of the torque converter to do a proper flush, but I think for me a simple drain and refill will be good enough for my piece of mind.
I just need to find the manuals, the stickies here keep linking to the topix website which require a login to see anything.

You have, thanks.

 

Tranny fluid change on the XJR is fairly easy if you can get the large torx (?) drain bolt out, mine stripped and I had to cut a slot in it to be able to use a large flathead screwdriver and lots of torque to get it out.

There is no tranny "dip stick" on our cars, only a sheath with a red plastic cap that you have to remove to check the level. You will also need a method to measure the fluid level, I used an old choke cable sheath the first time and just put the same amount back in that was there when I drained it. The Mercedes dip sticks are cheap on Ebay now, about $8, might want to get one and make sure you have run thru all the gears and the fluid is up to operating temp when you check the level.

3 drains and replacements over a few days with spirited drives in between made sure I replaced "most" of the fluid. A 12 count case of fluid will do that.

Use the correct fluid! Shell ATF 134 is available thru Ryder Fleet products online, I paid about $5 a quart and you will get about 4 quarts out with a hot drain. You don't have to pay Jag or Merc 5x+ more for the same fluid.

DO NOT LET SOMEONE PUT MERCON OR SOME OTHER TRANNY FLUID IN THE TRANNY, THAT WOULD BE "VERY BAD."

If you need a new drain plug, take the old one to a fastener shop and get a normal bolt with flats that will fit in a socket or wrench, much easier to remove in the future. Replace the copper crush washer too.

You can also drop the pan and replace the filter, Merc kits on Ebay are about $50 or less and include a new pan, gasket and filter. The OEM pan is plastic, BTW, so torque the fasteners (which are fun to get out too!) to spec on reassembly.
Vector

 

Is that chemical metal much like marine-tex or JBWeld? I have a brand new 3rd brake light and have the mounting tabs off currently. I was going to use window urethane on the tabs but depending on availability of chemical steel, I may change my mind. Thoughts??

 

Thanks. I entirely forgot about the filter. It's been sometime since I've owned a vehicle with an automatic transmission.

 

On my XJ6 Series III, XJS and X300 I put the 3rd brake light on using Hysol, worked great even in extreme hot FL. Only thing I found that worked and did so permanently.

 

Hello, sorry I haven't got back to you I've had a busy and tiring week with work.
Chemical Metal is a strong product that comes in two tubes, the product and the hardener.
I think it would be easier for you to replace the glovebox as a whole unit rather than just the lock, but you won't be able to lock it unless you get a copy of the key for it. I say this because you don't want someone to accidentally lock your box and you not be able to open it. I say this because not a lot of people know this but: ANY JAGUAR X308 KEY WILL LOCK ANY 308 LOCK. This is a feature of tibbe locks, I'm not sure of the reasoning other than a dealer once told me he could lock all the cars on the forecourt with one key. Ford used tibbe locks for many years, but the Jaguar keys have an extra bit on them.

 

So is it possible to get a lock rekeyed by any lock smith or because of the tribbe keys are can that only be done by a dealer?

 

Never needed to do this.

Just lie parallel to the front bumper, head towards the
left side of the vehicle. Reach over and undo sump plug.
I use a low profile drain pan positioned under the sump
plug before undoing it.

The oil filter is accessed from the wheel well.

 

Are you mixing up the ZF pan?

Mine is definitely sheet metal.

And I use Valvoline Maxlife Dex/Merc ... as mentioned in a Mercedes bulletin.

 

I'm not sure about in the USA but here in the UK pretty much any locksmith can do you a tibbe key cut. Some cannot program them, but the bigger ones generally can do it. I had one cut to just unlock the doors, no chip, and it cost me £6.00 ($7 approx). The chipped keys aren't too much more.

I imagine there is a company or service somewhere in the USA that will be able to assist you.