My 2001 XJR has been a dream car of mine since i was a little kid throughout my childhood this was a car my father and i loved but never had the pleasure to own or drive watching this car on top gear at age 10 and my mom eventually buying a 97 VDP XJ8 and being dropped off at school in it made me feel like a million bucks now my dad is since gone and i have been blessed to get one for myself for a very modest $2000 and though there is some rust its actually very clean and it shows the previous owners cared for it as i understand it was a jaguar mechanic who owned it prior the gentleman i bought it from it now has 9,000 miles on it since the engine being completely rebuilt and all eligible parts being replaced timing chain tensioners water pump the whole nine yards and a brand new supercharger having now seen approximately 5000 miles many smiles to come from this beauty i feel blessed this car will be in my possession for many many years to come decades if possible i was prepared to do a lot of welding if necessary but so far nothing seems vital inspecting regularly if only suspension were as nice… the front clunked so bad i honestly thought it was going to fall off but id rather rebuild the suspension then the engine any day so heres what ive replaced so far.

spark plugs: ngk platinum $45
new air filter: microguard $16
new front shocks: bilstein $205
new front sway bar links: delphi $30
rear sway bar links: moog $12 (got them on clearance $6/piece great design)
rear shocks bilstein: $208 (shocks arriving today)
supercharger belt: $20 dayco (was very squeaky but is now silent)
i would have rather gone for gates for longevity sake but im sure other people have alternative opinions my clunks are solved for the most part i didnt do the top mount bushing with the shocks but its black and not the original maybe needs replacing anyways? I do get a clunk when stopping to quick it takes a bit of force to clunk but its there maybe a lower ball joint?

i noticed some of the bolts holding the shock mounting plate to the inner wall were not in the greatest condition one being stripped i looked all over to find the bolts you can buy the 4 pack at autozone i believe they were 1.25 pitch M8 will update if i find the package and see different or someone can chime in they held the mounting plate firmly against the inner wall much better then the original bolts it would take 3 packs of those but the grade seems to be a bit higher as well overall they appear to be holding things much better.


this pack of bolts cost $4.50/4 bolts at my local autozone

new battery $170 autozone

fuel filter K&N $15 (i forgot where will insert if I remember)

new to me J gate shifter $300 ebay used (not convinced i needed it but the car works great)

I have since taken the car on a 2 and a half hour road trip to the neighboring state and i can concur its driving great 👍 now to finish the work

Vacuum Leaks:

im troubleshooting a vacuum leak i think ive pinned down to the rubber O-Ring connecting under the TB same part used on the x-types brake booster to intake manifold these would go bad so frequently id find myself buying the o rings in bulk the vacuum leak is not always present sometimes its really bad and sometimes its none existent itll run great at 45-55 mph and sometimes it fumbles a little and same thing at idle sometimes good sometimes finicky it does appear to be better when its cold out i take it the contracting of the cold snowy weather keeps the connections nice and tight but if i let it idle for to long after a drive it certainly starts to run a bit rough it’s definitely not bouncing around but it is noticeable and it should run like a kitten like in the cold weather instead of what i want to call a short “running off” period just after shut off a symptom occurred after the the engine is shut off from idling after a drive almost like it doesnt want to shut off so it shuts down very lumpy like after key is off you can feel a rumble when its shut off kinda like when you shut down some of the smaller landscaping equipment it kinda chucks and rumbles when you turn it off (obviously its due to the vacuum leak) but if i run the car for a few minutes until temp is warm then shut it off that symptom doesnt happen at all in moderately cold temps as long as im driving it wont happen until i come to a stop from driving an instance i can recall is going to the store id let the car warm up one notch above blue as always it runs great i drive to the store shuts off great i return to the car start it up and i drive home i get home i shut the car off after i park its fine but if i get home and let it idle for a minute this symptom occurs nothing happens before it nothing after it just runs a little rough and doesnt have the power it normally does when you first pull off or want to get up to speed sluggish and rough like its working to hard and in snowy conditions it doesnt happen at all i can idle for a while before something like that happens i also noticed running the air at highest temp would somewhat resolve the issue though it was there it was not as prominent could this be the heat soak the eaton m112 is known for? I do have a P0442 (small leak) The previous owner added green colored coolant to the car i assume this is universal but i think we can all agree if you need to assume you might as well change that to the orange or pink that should be in there but the code is what confuses me if it were the S/C either way im sure proper cooling is in order

Shock mounts:
my current shock mount bushings are black i take it they have been replaced as there not yellow orangish is it possible to tell how bad they are or if they are bad in the first place? How flat is to flat? I suspect they are to flat but i wouldnt know any indication would be helpful.

OBD2: my OBD2 port is not functioning correctly i feel the need to connect this to the battery drainage the various accessories not working and my sport mode stuff not working ill be checking grounds later on i noticed one in an area in the trunk where water seems to appear out of no where i got a jaguar antenna grommet for roughly $2-$3 and figured might as well stick it on if it doesnt cure it water wont be coming in there anytime soon either way $2 for reassurance and $6 for e6000 waterproof glue transparent clear i found the JTIS for water intrusion to the trunk and will be going over that in the coming month or so there is a panel that is not factory sealed in the trunk where water just comes right in there was a write up i forget where but a tech had his partner climb in close the lid shut and a flash light pouring a hose over the back could see water coming in from that exact seem for anyone who’s interested maybe check that area out we dont sit in our trunks regularly to know about it and in some cases you have to remove the liner but if its soaked better to air dry it anyways while you fix the leak if i can post the JTIS to the water intrusion as well if anyone wants it will probably upload it later today when im done with the work but incase i forget dont be shy


so far my total for the car is a mere
$3038.50 car included
Almost 9,000 on the engine almost 5000 miles on the supercharger and hopefully not even 200 miles on the suspension by the time im done replacing the rusted and worn bushings and unlike the x-type this car has been a blast to work on aside from pinching a nerve in my back while cutting out one of the sway bar links my fault for not stretching take care folks and thank you for all your help so far! To everyone may your jags bring you many smiles per miles 😊🙏

 

> The previous owner added green colored coolant to the car.
That's the wrong one. Jags (at least X-Type, S-Type and X308) want the orange/red coolant.
Not wanting to confuse, but I use yellow...: There is a new & improved coolant on the market in AUSTRALIA, hence, I got no idea, if that exists in the States at all. It's Nulon One.
But IF you actually have that yellow coolant in the US, I might add that after putting it into the car, it might actually look a bit green, especially, if you do not know, that there is a Yellow coolant on the market.
I use green only for my van.

> Shock mounts: my current shock mount bushings are black i take it they have been replaced as there not yellow orangish is it possible to tell how bad they are
Yes. The OE bushing would look by now like disintegrating orange foam - bits and pieces everywhere. This is why I replaced mine:
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...2169af-266115/

You see (in my link) how thick the bushings are normally. If you got black rubber now, and whoever replaced them did not use wrong parts (i.e. rubber too thin in the first place), yours should be fine.

 

very good my x-type has orange because i knew the jags used it the previous owner of my X-type used green as well when i see that i try to get it out as quickly as possible but im not overheating at all so maybe its cooling but not enough in my XJR previous owner told me its the universal coolant for all makes (which to me seems like a one size fits all scenario) if only we lived in an ideal world that might work lol im thinking the uniserval is keeping the engine cool but not the supercharger and since im nearly positive there isnt a supercharger temp sensor i take it id never know until A the supercharger takes to much heat and blows a bearing or something or B i put in new proper coolant and find my issue resolved on that one the list continues thankfully im enjoying working on this car vs the X type so many bad places for things and after driving roughly 525 miles yesterday i noticed my wheel bearings squeals bit seems to be up front i also get some clunkiness over uneven roads even after replacing the shocks and bar links ball joints seem to be good and the tyre seems to be firmly in place is it possible my wheel bearing are just starting to fail? Maybe someone can answer me that if given the chance i could feel the vibrations through the pedal and a noticeable light squeal around 60-70 in colder temps the squeal is almost unheard or unnoticeable also where did you get the cat tires?? I absolutely love them i want some lol

 

The different coolants are being explained here:

https://www.ptagarages.co.uk/blog/do...20manufacturer.

I don't think that the different colour coolants are different in their efficiency of cooling the engine (if that would be the case, the stuff, which it's that good, would be off the market already), but the difference lies in their corrosive effects on the engine - and different engines are made of different materials and hence, they require a different coolant.
But as I wrote above, I am using the yellow coolant, where I hope that what they promise is true: This is supposed to be one coolant for all engines with better properties. But as I wrote, I got no idea, if you have that in the States...

 

You'd know if the supercharger was overheating, the engine would massively retard the ignition & reduce the power to the point it feels very broken. Mine did it after 25-30miles when I first got the car & it turned out to be just the fuse had blown the electric pump that forces the coolant around the intercoolers.

 

interesting thank you now i know roughly what im looking for if that ever happens mine does work pretty dang good and its smooth most the time i suspect ill need coil packs or at least replace the ones that are older