Need Help, Gear box fault. 700 mile on rebuilt trans.
#1
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Hello,
I just got a gear box fault and traction control fault and I was able get it home in limp mode about 2 block away. The car was running went to pull into gas station after braking then fault came on and i lost power could only get 1000 rpm. Car has been running great with no issues for the last week.Transmissions was rebuilt less than 700 miles ago by trans shop at a cost of $2200. Now the car will not even stay running. Transmission is under warranty for another 23300 miles. This is so weird. Any idea of a possible other issue that maybe causing this. The car is a 1999 XJ8 with 130000 miles. I am so upset can't believe it. HELP Please.
I just got a gear box fault and traction control fault and I was able get it home in limp mode about 2 block away. The car was running went to pull into gas station after braking then fault came on and i lost power could only get 1000 rpm. Car has been running great with no issues for the last week.Transmissions was rebuilt less than 700 miles ago by trans shop at a cost of $2200. Now the car will not even stay running. Transmission is under warranty for another 23300 miles. This is so weird. Any idea of a possible other issue that maybe causing this. The car is a 1999 XJ8 with 130000 miles. I am so upset can't believe it. HELP Please.
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#2
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Disconnected battery and gear box fault are cleared . Now motor will not stay running on its own and running very rough and smell real rich. Check engine light is now on also. Will try to pull code tomorrow. Any idea what is going. This is weirdest thing I have every seen. Maybe I am not meant to have a jag.
#3
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Running rich, mean to much fuel in been dump into the engine (flooding), what controls the fuel via computer is the O2 Sensors, check to make sure they are connected.
Also reply back with DTC when you get them.
The transmission fault could very well mean they (the shop) didn't adjust the shifter cable correctly. They shouldn't have messed with the ABS sensor, because the wheel do not need to come off to do tranny.
If they pulled the engine to remove and install the tranny, then you be fishing in the dark. but you said it was running good for 700 miles. Since it is under warranty do not touch anything, take it back. With you fiddling with stuff could void the warranty.
Check the ground strap that is connected to the engine block and transmission on the passenger side under the car.
Also reply back with DTC when you get them.
The transmission fault could very well mean they (the shop) didn't adjust the shifter cable correctly. They shouldn't have messed with the ABS sensor, because the wheel do not need to come off to do tranny.
If they pulled the engine to remove and install the tranny, then you be fishing in the dark. but you said it was running good for 700 miles. Since it is under warranty do not touch anything, take it back. With you fiddling with stuff could void the warranty.
Check the ground strap that is connected to the engine block and transmission on the passenger side under the car.
Last edited by sbreeden; 10-18-2012 at 08:27 AM.
#4
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Hey guys just got some of the problem fixed.... Air intake hose became dissconnected from MAF. So she is now back to purring like the big cat she is. But now getting P1000 but running without issue with no light on the dash but the nice green ones.. What do I need to do to fix P1000?
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#9
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The step are, open the hood.
If you have them remove the covers, that over the throttle body.
1. Locate the throttle cable.
2. Remove the zip tie.
3. Lift up the Throttle Body Cable (TBC),
4. Rotate the clip to tighten the cable, to the point of where the throttle body butterfly plate moves, back off 1/2 turn.
5. Install the TBC back in the holder.
6. Start car, if RPMs or high (leave running)
7. Remove the TBC and adjust accordingly to lower the RPMs. (idle 600-700 RPMs)
8. Install TBC and zip tie,
9. Reinstall cover
10. Clear code,
11. Drive.
12. Enjoy.
SGB
If you have them remove the covers, that over the throttle body.
1. Locate the throttle cable.
2. Remove the zip tie.
3. Lift up the Throttle Body Cable (TBC),
4. Rotate the clip to tighten the cable, to the point of where the throttle body butterfly plate moves, back off 1/2 turn.
5. Install the TBC back in the holder.
6. Start car, if RPMs or high (leave running)
7. Remove the TBC and adjust accordingly to lower the RPMs. (idle 600-700 RPMs)
8. Install TBC and zip tie,
9. Reinstall cover
10. Clear code,
11. Drive.
12. Enjoy.
SGB
#10
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The P1121 is a TB fault related to the throttle body position sensor and any adjustments to the cable will not fix it. I will provide a link to my experience with the TB and what I needed to do to get it fixed. I hope this helps.
Link http://jagrepair.com/images/AutoRepa...J27%201999.pdf
Link JagRepair.com - Jaguar Repair Information Resource
Link http://jagrepair.com/images/AutoRepa...J27%201999.pdf
Link JagRepair.com - Jaguar Repair Information Resource
#11
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Hi
DTC Summary has the P1121 as a PPS Pedal Position Sensor issue.
There are 2 sensors on the throttle body that usually cause the issues that result in Restricted Performance, they are the TPS Throttle Position Sensor and the PPS Pedal Position Sensor.
You will need to clean the electric contacts on them, if that does fix the issue, then you need to have the throttle body rebuilt or replaced.
Both of these alternates have documentation on forum member Gus website: jagrepair.com
Jim Lombardi
DTC Summary has the P1121 as a PPS Pedal Position Sensor issue.
There are 2 sensors on the throttle body that usually cause the issues that result in Restricted Performance, they are the TPS Throttle Position Sensor and the PPS Pedal Position Sensor.
You will need to clean the electric contacts on them, if that does fix the issue, then you need to have the throttle body rebuilt or replaced.
Both of these alternates have documentation on forum member Gus website: jagrepair.com
Jim Lombardi
Last edited by jimlombardi; 10-24-2012 at 10:50 AM.
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