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I keep the new brass bush and plastic collet as spare and, if one day I need to repair my (now still good) old connector, I will keep the old brass bush and just use the new o-ring and the plastic collet from the new kit (the brass bush does not wear).
OK I'll try just changing the oring and collet, which way does it goes though, does the oring go to the outside or the inside of the intake elbow?
Originally Posted by M. Stojanovic
The small vacuum hose running through the silver heat shield may be for a model with different vacuum lines arrangement and you may not need to use it. Or it may be the line from the Purge Valve to the small "T" from where a short hose connects to the SC Bypass valve actuator. I believe this line is still good on your engine but, if the new one is the same length, you can replace the old one with the new one.
That line from the purge valve to the bypass valve on my car is still good, its intact and the rubber is still soft and malleable. I might replace it anyway just cause I have this hose so why not get a fresh one on there that way you knwo there are no cracks or tears in it.
OK I'll try just changing the oring and collet, which way does it goes though, does the oring go to the outside or the inside of the intake elbow?
I have not checked the position of the o-ring on my brass bush but it should be at the inner end of the bush. The o-ring sits in a recess near the end of the bush. In any case, you should be able to find out where exactly your old o-ring is positioned when you are taking it out.
I have not checked the position of the o-ring on my brass bush but it should be at the inner end of the bush. The o-ring sits in a recess near the end of the bush. In any case, you should be able to find out where exactly your old o-ring is positioned when you are taking it out.
The old o-ring is gone, so I've got nothing to reference.
The old o-ring is gone, so I've got nothing to reference.
Use a "dentist's pick" with the tip at 90 deg. and feel the inside of the brass bush. From the outside, there should be a step after about 3 mm where the inner diameter of the bush widens a bit. Further in, and at the inner end of the bush, you should feel a half-round recess. This is where the o-ring sits. Should be easy if you bring the new bush near the old one and compare.
Use a "dentist's pick" with the tip at 90 deg. and feel the inside of the brass bush. From the outside, there should be a step after about 3 mm where the inner diameter of the bush widens a bit. Further in, and at the inner end of the bush, you should feel a half-round recess. This is where the o-ring sits. Should be easy if you bring the new bush near the old one and compare.
OK so I found these two diagrams, the first one lays out pretty clearly how the hoses off the intake elbow go even though they don't really show where they go to, but it does confirm what I suspected about the small port on the intake elbow on the AJ27 engine, and a T coming off the small port on the intake elbow which leads to another T going to the bypass valve and evap canister. This is what I posted above in post #9 where I have the picture of the broken plastic T and the broken vacuum line.
Now according to this 2nd diagram someone has labeled that T off the intake elbow as going to the MAP sensor, which I assume is somewhere on the air intake of the car? Can anyone confirm?
So things are coming together nicely, I've almost got things back together, just waiting on one coolant hose to be delivered and I've got to install the accessory and SC belts pulleys and idlers. Then just fill with oil and coolant and hope she starts.
But before that I've still got this one vacuum line to figure out where it goes. It come off of a T that connects to the small port on the intake elbow, the other end of the T goes to another T that leads to the bypass valve and the evap purge valve. I found a diagram above that list it as going to the MAP sensor, but I don't know where that is (do these cars even have a map sensor?) and I've got no obvious empty connectors left anywhere on the car.
I'm so close to finishing this, just need help with this....
Some models had a MAP Sensor and some did not. My 1999 Super V8 (UK model) does not have one. The pics below show a version with a MAP Sensor. If your car has it (compare with the pics), then the "extra" vacuum hose connects to it from below. If you don't have the MAP Sensor, just plug the vacuum hose as shown on the diagram (1st picture) you posted. Or you can completely remove the "T" for the MAP Sensor and the associated vacuum hoses and keep them as spare.
Some models had a MAP Sensor and some did not. My 1999 Super V8 (UK model) does not have one. The pics below show a version with a MAP Sensor. If your car has it (compare with the pics), then the "extra" vacuum hose connects to it from below. If you don't have the MAP Sensor, just plug the vacuum hose as shown on the diagram (1st picture) you posted. Or you can completely remove the "T" for the MAP Sensor and the associated vacuum hoses and keep them as spare.
Now I just need to figure out where this mystery hose came from. I don't think I've got any open hose connections anywhere on the car, (not anywhere obvious at least).
Now I just need to figure out where this mystery hose came from. I don't think I've got any open hose connections anywhere on the car, (not anywhere obvious at least).
Those pieces appear to be just wiring loom ducts. The puzzling thing is the short piece of braided rubber hose attached to one of the pieces. Anyway, this short hose does not appear to be original. There are quite long sections of wiring looms around the engine in flexible conduits (see pic below) so your pieces could be from a section of the looms. Do you have any exposed wires along the cylinder heads?
Those pieces appear to be just wiring loom ducts. The puzzling thing is the short piece of braided rubber hose attached to one of the pieces. Anyway, this short hose does not appear to be original. There are quite long sections of wiring looms around the engine in flexible conduits (see pic below) so your pieces could be from a section of the looms. Do you have any exposed wires along the cylinder heads?
No, I don;t have any exposed wires along the engine. I thought the material seemed more like what the breather hose was made from then the wiring covering.
One of your earlier pictures show that you only had the rear part of the breather hose still in your engine compartment:
The pieces you show (with a short braided hose on one) could have been from the part of the breather hose that extends from the "T" that you hold in your hand on the pic above running to the front of the left cam cover, melted due to heat. It is possible that the short braided hose was used to connect to the front of the left cam cover, as a replacement for the broken original push-on connector.
One of your earlier pictures show that you only had the rear part of the breather hose still in your engine compartment:
The pieces you show (with a short braided hose on one) could have been from the part of the breather hose that extends from the "T" that you hold in your hand on the pic above running to the front of the left cam cover, melted due to heat. It is possible that the short braided hose was used to connect to the front of the left cam cover, as a replacement for the broken original push-on connector.
I suppose it could have come from this hose. There is only that one rubber connector on the end of this breather hose, but it's not covered in the cable protector. I guess it could have been a repair to this hose though. Seems as good an answer as any as I can't see any places missing hose on the car.
So I thought I'd put and update here, I got the car all put back together yesterday and filled it with fluids today. It hesitated at first but started first try, unfortunately there is a knocking at idle. It seems the bottom end of the motor did not survive the overheating that lead me to rebuild the heads. Here is a video of it at idle:
Thanks to everyone here who offered help and advice. Unfortunately I think this is the end of the road for this Jag.
Update: So I did a compression test on the engine the number are as follows (from front cylinder to back): Driver's Side 120,125,130, 115 Pass Side: 125, 135, 135, 120. So the car has compression thats good, but all for spark plugs had carbon build up on them. These were brand new spark plugs and this was only from a few min of idling. Also I've got CELS for misfires P0300 P0305 P0307 and a pending P1000 as well as a transmission high temp warning that has thrown it into limp mode.
I'm slightly more optimistic given how the compression test turned out, but need to figure out why the spark plugs foul so quickly, which I'm assuming is the cause of the missing.
07-19-2019, 06:54 PM
