Need help troubleshooting the SLCM- I have soldering skills;)
#1
Need help troubleshooting the SLCM- I have soldering skills;)
So the problem I'm having seems to be pretty common.
I keep getting the warning message about my tailight and now the security light stays on and drains the battery.
I took apart the SLCM and visually nothing stands out as burned or damaged.
PICS:
I traced the pins using the electrical guide and it looks like Q14 is responsible for the right tail light(the one that has been giving me trouble).
I read all the threads on the topic, there seems to be a few guys here who know how to repair this but no thread with pics or any detailed instructions.
One thread had some part# for the switches but they don't match the ones I have.
If someone is willing to chime in and help me fix this I'll do a writeup with more pics for future reference.
The tailight failure I understand is because the switch is failing. But why is it draining the battery? Is that switch shorting and overloading the module where it will not function and the led stays on?
I keep getting the warning message about my tailight and now the security light stays on and drains the battery.
I took apart the SLCM and visually nothing stands out as burned or damaged.
PICS:
I traced the pins using the electrical guide and it looks like Q14 is responsible for the right tail light(the one that has been giving me trouble).
I read all the threads on the topic, there seems to be a few guys here who know how to repair this but no thread with pics or any detailed instructions.
One thread had some part# for the switches but they don't match the ones I have.
If someone is willing to chime in and help me fix this I'll do a writeup with more pics for future reference.
The tailight failure I understand is because the switch is failing. But why is it draining the battery? Is that switch shorting and overloading the module where it will not function and the led stays on?
#2
#3
The VCATS label says LNC2600HD/008
I didn't reach out to the guy as from his thread I was under the impression he had the later module with 3 switches. Also seems like he was inactive from a few other posts.
#5
#7
Not a bad call Jim, but the rear lights go thru the SLM - that wire bundle break causes boot lock failure.
The '008' is the SLM's program code so it's important to match this on a replacement. On install the key fob needs reprogramming to it, so it's the lights flash/beep/press on the fob exercise. I should think a USA 98' XJ module will drop in...
The '008' is the SLM's program code so it's important to match this on a replacement. On install the key fob needs reprogramming to it, so it's the lights flash/beep/press on the fob exercise. I should think a USA 98' XJ module will drop in...
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#8
Not a bad call Jim, but the rear lights go thru the SLM - that wire bundle break causes boot lock failure.
The '008' is the SLM's program code so it's important to match this on a replacement. On install the key fob needs reprogramming to it, so it's the lights flash/beep/press on the fob exercise. I should think a USA 98' XJ module will drop in...
The '008' is the SLM's program code so it's important to match this on a replacement. On install the key fob needs reprogramming to it, so it's the lights flash/beep/press on the fob exercise. I should think a USA 98' XJ module will drop in...
I can open the trunk with the push button on the lid but the key in the trunk lock does absolutely nothing.
#9
The key hole usually gums up due to lack of use. If the button works then there isn't an issue with the wiring but another test is the remote boot switch on the dash, does this work? Graphite stuff locksmiths use can help free the manual lock off, if the battery fails it's nice to know you can still unlock the trunk/boot.
The fault is behind the rhs boot hinge, the loom that runs up inside it, the wiring breaks over time, number plate lights go out, boot switch doesn't work.
Anyway, nowt to do with the rear lights as you know it's an SLM issue. To put that thing on the bottom of the trunk was a great idea, a little bit of water and it's all over!
The fault is behind the rhs boot hinge, the loom that runs up inside it, the wiring breaks over time, number plate lights go out, boot switch doesn't work.
Anyway, nowt to do with the rear lights as you know it's an SLM issue. To put that thing on the bottom of the trunk was a great idea, a little bit of water and it's all over!
#10
Ok, so today I had some time to troubleshoot a bit more. I pretty much ruled out the SLCM.
1st. I took the SLCM apart. I de-soldered the smart switch. Put it in the car, same thing, but now I was permanently getting the tail light warning.
2nd. I disconnected the SLCM completely. Well, to my surprise nothing changed ( besides the fact that no lights worked)
The security light still glows flashing real fast and real bright. When I start the car the light remains on but not as bright.
I've had this happen before, but usually this would go away after some time. Now that I think about it, this usually happened to me when I would mess with the seat heater buttons?
Also, I noticed that when I first start the car, I get the tail light message, but after I cycle the lights from off to on and back to off it doesn't come back anymore.
I'm starting to think that maybe it's the Body Processor Module, what do you guys think?
1st. I took the SLCM apart. I de-soldered the smart switch. Put it in the car, same thing, but now I was permanently getting the tail light warning.
2nd. I disconnected the SLCM completely. Well, to my surprise nothing changed ( besides the fact that no lights worked)
The security light still glows flashing real fast and real bright. When I start the car the light remains on but not as bright.
I've had this happen before, but usually this would go away after some time. Now that I think about it, this usually happened to me when I would mess with the seat heater buttons?
Also, I noticed that when I first start the car, I get the tail light message, but after I cycle the lights from off to on and back to off it doesn't come back anymore.
I'm starting to think that maybe it's the Body Processor Module, what do you guys think?
#12
I don't know how relevant this is or if your car falls into the period covered but there are a number of weird faults caused by the major instrument cluster which does a lot of protocol conversions
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/a...an-failure-pdf
You don't have to have all the symptoms for the cluster to be bad. There's a DIY fix.
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/a...an-failure-pdf
You don't have to have all the symptoms for the cluster to be bad. There's a DIY fix.
The following users liked this post:
adam699 (10-22-2012)
#13
I don't know how relevant this is or if your car falls into the period covered but there are a number of weird faults caused by the major instrument cluster which does a lot of protocol conversions
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/a...an-failure-pdf
You don't have to have all the symptoms for the cluster to be bad. There's a DIY fix.
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/a...an-failure-pdf
You don't have to have all the symptoms for the cluster to be bad. There's a DIY fix.
#14
Adam699,
Any luck finding a supplier for the SLCM components? I have a 1999 XK8...
The PN# I see from your photos are:
Q16 - ST WRC 71025SE C9737
Q13, Q14, Q15, Q17 - ST WRC 71024SE C9747
possible Manufacturer is STMicroelectronics - The WRC letters - No reference that I could tell. The difference in numbers may be internal switching logic. i.e. delayed on-off signal after the car is shut down, etc. It would be nice to have a schematic instead of fumbling around with a probe.
I found several suppliers for 71025SE and 71024SE but no photo or much else that I understand.
What say ye?
t
Any luck finding a supplier for the SLCM components? I have a 1999 XK8...
The PN# I see from your photos are:
Q16 - ST WRC 71025SE C9737
Q13, Q14, Q15, Q17 - ST WRC 71024SE C9747
possible Manufacturer is STMicroelectronics - The WRC letters - No reference that I could tell. The difference in numbers may be internal switching logic. i.e. delayed on-off signal after the car is shut down, etc. It would be nice to have a schematic instead of fumbling around with a probe.
I found several suppliers for 71025SE and 71024SE but no photo or much else that I understand.
What say ye?
t
#15
The following users liked this post:
Terry Young (12-25-2012)
#16
Thanks!!!
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#19
Were they the correct ic's for 71025SE and 71024SE, I've been trying to replace mine for months but can't find them or their equivalents, I can only find them on alibaba.com but they show no pics, If someone can tell me where I can buy them or their equivalents, I'll post the process in pics for others, the hardest thing is finding the parts for "71025SE and 71024SE" or their equivalents I can't even tell or find out who makes them & I graduated from Electronics...
#20