Hi folks,

Just got a call from the widow woman next door and her Jag (the one I am still searching for the cause of a quiescent battery drain on) quit on her as she was driving down the boulevard. Her words, "everything quit, engine, steering, brakes everything... had a gearbox failure display on the dashboard" (to me that means there was still some electrical power) she continued "... after a few minutes I was to start it again and I drove it slowly to the repair shop (the one where the shade tree guy works DHOOOO)." I asked her if the gear box failure fault stayed illuminated and she said yes. I figured it would because of fault latching circuitry.

I'm wondering if this may be linked to to quiescent battery drain? Or in other words, I wonder if the quiescent drain may be from what is linked to the gear box fault issue - what ever that is?

Anybody ever have anything like this?

Thanks in advance,
Dave

 

I would start with a TOTAL module scan to see if the networks are intact.
Sometimes 'U' codes can lead to a network fault for a particular module.
An 'ERR' (no module communication) can tell if one has lost power or network continuity.

bob

 

Bob, would a network fault shut the engine down and then after the fault cleared or something, let the engine restart? I'm wondering if the gearbox fault would do that? I'm wondering if the dad-blamed computers might think that the gearbox died so it shut the engine down? She said the car wouldn't accelerate like normal while she drove it to shadetree's garage.

 

The CAN bus is the main network for the drivetrain.
The INST PK is the gateway and all the modules are in series for normally aspirated car so if one fails it can shut down the network.

Could be a faulty harness or module connection????

Someone with a proper diagnostic computer will be the best way to diagnose. Anyone else will just be GUESSING.

bob

 

I was afraid you you were going to say the part about a proper diagnostic computer. I don't have one of those and the closest Jag dealer is around two hours away. About the best I can do is get one of those code readers for right now.

I've been reading here in the forums about some diagnostic software and connection cords that you can get to do somewhat better than AutoZone or whatever but still not as all-encompassing as what the Dealers and other dedicated Jag mechanics have. I'm stuck to the rudimentary troubleshooting until I can either solve it or get the car to a big city that has the better equipment and techs.

I guess I need to get access to the network diagrams (especially the CAN buss) and see if there is anyway to "trial and elimination" my way to a solution. I'll start by inspecting harness connections and etc. from the Inst cluster outward.

Thank you for this and future guidance!
Dave

 

Electrical Guide for you.
2001 - 2003 XJ sedans are the SAME.

Network diagrams are near the end.

 

Bob, thanks very much for the guides.

On another note, what are your impressions of those diagnostic programs that can be run from a laptop? I'm wondering if they would be worth the cost and effort?

 

I have 3 WDS PTUs (circa 1998-2006) and one docking station. I also have 2 Dell C640 laptops with 2 IDS VCMs. I have several Hard Drives with IDS 118.5 installed.

I even have a Hard Drive with IDS DVD 102 that dates back to circa 2006.

The SDD type devices will load later software (version 125 or later) and it will revert to LEGACY IDS for X308 cars.

I only work on the older Jaguars so I have software up to 2009 loaded on computers. You might want to read up on your options in the GENERAL FORUM. Lots of discussions about this.

bob

 

Dave, if your closest Jag dealer is Reno, they don't have the diagnostic computers to do an X308. They referred me to Autohaus for my problems.


Mark
2002 XJR-100

 

Mark,

Thanks for your response. The widow woman's Jag is in WV. My Mom & Dad lived in WV after my Dad retired from the Navy. The widow woman was my Mom's best friend and before my Mom passed, she told me I had better take care of her friend or she would haunt me :-o

The Jag dealer is in Charleston WV.

Thanks again!

 

Hopefully you get that car fixed soon !!


Mark

 

As do I Mark!

This car is really giving me headaches.

 

The Autoenginuity software that I installed on my laptop several years ago has worked well on X100 and X308 models, but it's probably over $500 now. Several members use ELM 327 and torque app on android and report good results for a few dollars.

 

Just for entertainment purposes, here's an example of what Neighbor Lady has been dealing with. I had to go on a trip to Nevada so she turned the car over to her local repairman.

From Mr Repairman: ... he found the problem....a wire... but couldn't figure out which one ... used your papers {Jag Electrical Guide documents I received from Motorcarman, papers still in the car clean, no dirty fingerprints} ... said there was a grounding occurring in a wire among 300 wires ...

She told me no repairs were made. Now her daughter is going to take the Jag to Columbus OH Jag dealer.

I wish I had been able to tackle the problem but the travel was mandatory. Like a mystery, I hate to leave a problem unsolved.

Thanks everyone for your comments, suggestions, documents and guidance!!!!

Dave

 

I hate to see it going to a dealer. They often just throw parts at the problem and you end up with a bill higher than the value of the car.

 

I know. That is part of the thing that's bothering me but I am 3000 miles away and can't do anything.

On top of that, she had to have a car to get around in so she went out and bought one. Now I feel the guilt of not being able to fix it before I had to leave and she spent so much money to buy another car AND pay the crazy dealer repair costs.

 

If you're still in Nevada and want to redeem yourself, stop by this weekend. I'll be replacing the knock sensors and water pump in my XJR.

 

Shoot, with my luck you'd probably end up with a grounded wire among 300 that you or I cant find!

The neighbor lady texted me this morning that she is having mysterious intermittent whole house electrical issues. All different circuits so it's not just one circuit breaker.

I told her that it is hard for me to troubleshoot from 3000 miles away 😵. I had to call the power company in WV to get them to go check the service into the meter.

I hate it when I talk to some person at the electric utility and the first thing they say is that it isn't their equipment - it has to be her MPDP or something. Then the person tries to explain how it is the homeowner's problem and when I tell her I'm a licensed Journeyman Electrician, the rep suddenly goes quiet and says the electrical utility linemen are being dispatched 🤣

Never a dull moment - even from 3000 miles away😱

 

Yea, I could have a bad wire somewhere. Both of my cig lighters don't work, but that's pretty low on the 'to do' list since I quit smoking. My recent DTCs have turned out to be legitimate. One of them was a high intake air temp. Funny how the workshop manual goes to the electrical trouble shooting first; I guess they're assuming that the intercooler water pump was checked, cause that's what had quit working. The next DTC was the bank 2 knock sensor low voltage. That one is intermittent as it only shows up on even numbered days, so I can only plan on playing golf on odd days. Since trouble shooting those sensors requires removing the SC, I got two new ones. If it's just a loose bolt, I have two spares. But that DTC only showed up after I took out the thermostat to check it's operation cause the coolant temp would jump to 220 when I try to go up the hill to Tahoe. When I stay down in the flat lands it runs pretty close to 185 with some fluctuation to about 205; the IAT is good at 100 to 120 while all of this is going on. (I have the RealGauge mod from Jag Wrangler installed.) The t-stat was good, but I may have had some coolant run down to the KS sensor connections, so that's why I'm going to tear into the cooling system and check on the stuff under the SC.

Interesting that the neighbor lady's electrical problems now extend to the house; is it a Jag, too ??? I think my place is 'cause I get a lot of overvoltage here. I had our electric company out to check things and the transformer was running at 122 for all three phases (I think that's what they're called; one for the 120 and two for the 220) so the dude suggested checking around the house for something that might be doing some current reversal (I call it backwash). But, NV Energy didn't try to BS me with the 'it's your problem' stuff. They have a dedicated trouble shooter for the area and he showed up on OT the evening that I called.

Have a good weekend ...