Hi Forum!
My first thread here... in desperation, normally love the car but not today.

Jumping straight in to the issue with my car, hope someone has some input and willing to read it all!

Background info:
Ive had the car for around 8 years, 2 previous owners, im the owner that has put the most mileage on it, servicing has been done regularly by the book. Been thru blown head gaskets once before due to washing the engine (as normally done on previous cars) resulting in misfiring the life out of the head gaskets, also changed tensioners, chains, knock sensors, water pump, and some hoses while upgrading and doing the gasket job.

This time about 5 years later, believe one gaskets has gone again while troubleshooting the rough idle issue, letting it idle (misfire) for to long, might also be one of the cam cover gaskets not sure yet.

I'm getting codes
P1316 ( injector driver misfire / emissions damage /excess emissions / IDM Codes detected)
P03XX misfire detected, all cylinders.
P0300 random misfire multiple cylinders.

What has been done so far:
New Alternator installed the other day. Battery warning was lit on dash and still is sometimes. probably because of the very rought idling or do i have other problems?
New battery day after. battery was 4 years old, had the car alarm go of a couple of times, it hasnt done this before so gave it a shot and changed the battery, could be a quick fix.
Cleaned the two sensors in the MAF-sensor. (temp and MAF, in the MAF)
Cleaned the throttle body flap.
Checked the coolant temp sensor with ODB2 reader, it gave me "70 degrees" (unclear if its Celsius or Fahrenheit ) but 70 Fahrenheit corresponds to about 20 degrees Celsius measured with temp gun at the thermostat housing so seems to be correct.

How latest problems began:
Was out driving in really warm weather, lots of slow downtown traffic, it got worse and worse, so not that bad in the beginning, but now terrible. Now the situation is that when starting the car from absolutely COLD, it idles fine, until getting up the slightest in temperature, maybe after 1 minute it starts the misfire, shake and gets worse and worse.

Spoke to independent Jaguar tech (that cant take on the car right now). He said it was probably the coils, disconnect one coil at a time to see if there was any change in idling, there wasn't any obvious change in idling as its so rough already but anyway thought i might be that unlucky that two of them had failed, so swapped them all out. Might imagine, but now engine sounds healthier when revving past 1500rpm or so and up.

Also after some time the battery light in the dash lit up. And now also the Oil pressure light is lit. (blown gasket AGAIN i guess)



Me analyzing the situation below, might have gotten it all wrong as im not used to troubleshooting these kind of issues, and not a professional car tech.

soo...

P0300 random multiple multiple missfires
p1316 injector driver misfire, emissions damage, missfire rate exess emissions.

So basically what its saying is
1: to high emission due to to rich fuel mixture = to much fuel injected, or to little air in mixture.
Or 2: im missfiring because not knowing when to fire (timing) causing low burnrate of perfectly mixed fuel?

Above leads to:

to much fuel: to high pressure, high pressure after regulator.
to little air: MAF problem? what else is there?
timing: bad timing after a while? wierd but in that case cam sensors, or crank sensor? but they should be at play all the time.


Possible causes according to jaguar:

low compression:
What can cause low comp other than wear in this situation? would say probably not?

worn cams:
probably not, well maintained and at about 120 000 kilometers / 74500 miles

low or high fuel pressure:
Maybe, not measured

injectors blocked:
Maybe, injectors are below supercharger, hard to reach.

injectors continuosly open:
runs fine first minute from bone cold, then starts to missfire ALOT and shake.

Fuel contamination.
Runs fine at initial startup

Spark plug failure, incorrect gap:
probably not, jaguar plugs installed one year ago.

ECM to ignition module primary circuit fault (missfire also detected):
does this make any sense when i have multiple missfires and there is no separete ignition module between coils and ECM? all coils have their own cables, could be a main connector (large connector socket) issue in that case? where is that main connector located in that case?

Ignition module ground cirquit open, high resistance.
No ignition module present, so then high resistance between ECM and coils, common ground? where?
The car is in good shape and i dont have any undone ground connectors or surface rust anywhere, but might still be a problem.

ignition module, coil failure.
All coils are new, 1 week old, no improvment, or slight improvment when revving engine. there is no ignition module on XJR-00 (4 wire ignition coils) so could theoretically be something with the computer "ECM"?


Action list and conclusion:
Check if high fuel pressure. at fuelrail and also before fuel pressure regulator if possible?
Check fuel trim levels with ODB2 tool from cold start all the way until problems start?
To little air: MAF problem? what else is there? how to check the MAF?
Check main 1 or 2 main connectors for Coil packs, where are that main connector located in that case? and how do i check connectors -> ECM
High resistance between ECM and coils, common ground? where? how to check?
Check again that alternator is charging above 14volts.
How do i check ground / Negative from battery? enough to test that i have same voltage between positive and car body as in battery?

Sidenote: EGR valve is closed at startup, opening as the engine warms up, is it opening gradually or is on more like ON/OFF? Im thinking that if the EGR is clogged, but still opening and closing on command, it might not give any faultcode etc? If its clogged the exhaust gasses wont be burned off, giving exess emissions?
Idle control valve is also "just" a valve is just doing what its told to do, how is it controlled....these two things are not mentioned as possible causes from jaguar.




Any input would be much appreciated!

 

Well, well, that's a hell of a post....lets keep this as simple as possible initially.
First, can you clear up for us what you mean in the How Latest Problems Began statement. It looks like it says traffic got worse and worse, but I think you were trying to say something about the engine?

Since this happened after a hot ride and runs fine at cold startup, lets work with simple eliminations. If it were strictly mechanical, it should be a consistent problem.
*When's the last time you changed your thermostat?
*Though you cleaned the MAF, it may just be bad. A simple check would be to unplug its connector and start it. It will throw a code and automatically go into a default to where the car will run and flatten out the fuel trims. Its only made to allow you to get the car to a safe place off the road or such. Your performance won't be there, but it will be drivable. When it warms up, see if you observe the same issues. You can later clear this code and plug the connector back and be good.
*There could be an issue with the temp sensor.
*Have you done a fuel pressure check? You should be running around 42lbs off the rail. You need to check this cold and hot, you may have failing fuel pump(s).
*When was the last you changed the fuel filter?
*There could be a simple vacuum leak.

Let's start with that and I'm sure someone else will chime in soon enough.

 

P0300 is random misfire and 1316 is gorilla random misfire.

Sounds like this thing is missing all over the place as soon as it tries to enter closed loop, unplug MAF as noted above and try again. Check avaliable OBD readouts with $5 ELM scanner. Run a compression test as well and don’t rule out timing,

 

Sorry, English is not my native language, maybe im building my sentences the wrong way sometimes...
What i meant was, It was the bad idling that got worse and worse, first day noticing it i had some vibrations in the seats. now it hardly idles at all after about a minute has passed from totaly cold. the first minute or so is fine.
I know the termostat has been changed by the second owner once, i have not done so.
I have tried disconnecting the MAF and did notice a difference in how engine runs, i only had it disconnected for a few seconds. So at least cables seem fine.
Do you mean the air temp sensor that's inside the MAF sensor?
Did check the water temp sensor.
Fuel filter hasn't been changed, wouldn't a bad filter would reduce flow, less gas and lower pressure?
I also have/had very high short term fuel trim, but not sure at what stage that was, if it was at starting from cold or after i had some temp in the engine.
All vacuum hoses seem to be in good shape, been looking around for any potential places that has leeaks but cant find anything..

Dont you agree that it seems to be running rich?

Now in thinking one of these:
MAF
Lambda (my sensors have been exposed to quite some coolant from the first time a head gasket blew) Lambda might be reacting for some other reason.
High fuel pressure, will try to measure this tomorrow if i find a pressure gage somewhere locally
I do have a ODB2 reader, will have a look at the ODB2 short fuel trim data again tomorrow.

I believe i have a blown head gasket again, as smoke is coming from that area, might also be head cover gaskets this was not the case in the beginning of this story. gaskets weren't very old and Ive had no running issues prior to this, so i believe Its might blown again Due to misfiring not the other way around.

 

Thats very interesting. kind of what Ive been looking for, something is happening as soon it starts to warm up. what is not enabled in open loop? from what i understand lambdas/ O2 sensors are not?


Thanks for your replies!

 

You need to pull your plugs and look at them. I bet they are black and fouled. it doesn’t matter if you changed them last year. Misfire will foul a new plug and a fouled plug will not re-fire. you need to replace the plugs to get rid of the carbon trails that is causing the plug the foul out.

And what’s the plugs out to a compression test. Once you have photos of the spark plugs post them and I can tell you a lot more about what’s going on Craig also post the compression test results

 

Sounds like a bad temperature sensor -- stuck in cold position, giving a good cold start, but not showing higher temperature once the engine warms up. Maybe a bad pin at the the MAF connector, or bad wiring -- or -- a dirty MAF.

 

No issues regarding your English writing comprehension, I just want to make sure we respond appropriately.

I was talking about the coolant temperature sensor like Jim is.
Now that you say you have smoke coming out of the exhaust, does the exhaust smell sweet or like coolant? Check your oil before a cold start and see if there is a milky color in it, that would point to a head gasket.
I would definitely do what Aarcuda said and pull the plugs and check them. Get a compression test done and get us the plug pics and test info.
That OBDII scanner you have, does it do live time diagnostics? If so, you'll be able to see your fuel trims with it.
For the MAF, you need to keep it unplugged for a bit and see if the engine will allow you to drive it after it warms up.
As for a vacuum leak, it could be coming from the intake manifold.

 

Thanks for all of your replies.

Belive problem has been solved

the smoke i mentioned was from the bank 2 valve gasket, this has now cleared.
the car hasnt consumed any oil or water since my last headgasker replace. But now i had to top it up just a little, will monitor it closely. If headgasket is blown again i will probably use the metal ones for the 4.2 liter engines, anyone have any experience with using those on these cars?

The odb2 tool i use is from icarsoft, not perfect but shows some live data, codes etc. Temperatures sometime show in farenheit and sometimes just wierd numbers, entries in menues sometime work sometime dont show anything, some of them are double and even tripled, and some of the ones that are available more than once show data.

was driving around all friday looking for a decently prised compression test kit, finally found it late in the afternoon, it was getting dark, so decided to look at fueltrim and other live data instead. Then noticed a vvt issue ( even th it doesnt have any vvt)
”bank 1 vvt monitor:1”
”bank 2 vvt monitor:0”

hmmmmm

ignition timing advance could only be ticked for bank 1, nothing available for bank 2. Earlier xjrs only have one cams shaft position sensor right?

then found a choice for enabling monitoring of camshaft signal monitor again later in the menu. This one show input from camshaft signal monitor
bank 1 : 1
bank 2 : 0

so cleaned the connectors for the cam sensors, it didnt help, disconnected bank 1 sensor, but tool is still saying its alive, reconnected it, wierd..then disconnected bank 2 sensor, and suddenly all misfire cleared, dash warnings went away, and now running 90% better with only one sensor connected....

so have ordered new sensors. Appears the sensor was giving the wrong output when getting heated up.

now it throws code p1340, p1341: camshaft pos sensor 2 cirquit malfunction and cam pos sensor 2 range performance. nothing on the dash.

 

Excellent, fingers crossed this simple part replacement is your cure.

 

You can't be serious.

 

What do you mean? It started to consume coolant after that, 6 months later i had to change gaskets due to to very high coolant consumption. Also happened to another car at a detailing company, they didnt what to detail my car because of that, or they would skip the engine, engine detailing was included in price...

 

Don't stare values when there is no such device. It only messes you up. That is normal behavior on cheap non oem tester software. And even more expensive ones..

 

Ok this was fun. Repacing the sensor didnt help.

it runs fine with only one cam sensor connected and like s**t with both connected...

ideas?

 

will check cam positions next week though....

 

Todays update!

ok so wanted to test what happened when disconnecting the A bank sensor and reconnecting the B bank, cranked for ages then started up and ran fine. Then had friend over with a fuel pressure gauge (he is an mecanic for trade) pressure looks fine he said. Lets make it run rough so that i can see what happens he said, so connected both sensors again ang the car runs normal!

so what has been done today:
A bank sensor disconnected and reconnected, (previously untouched).

de-pressurising the fuel rail and re/pressurising fuel rail.

might have been the fuel pressure regulator membrane beeing stuck? Might happen again soon, but now its fine. Starts normal and runs normal.

or the ECU somehow reset when also resetting the A bank sensor?

Very confusing 🙂

kind of like the car a little more today at least 😂

 

It does actually.

 

You can't be serious.

 

Good luck.

 

Thanks!