Now to fill the trans(help)
#1
Now to fill the trans(help)
I read all the posts and am still not clear as to were the fill plug is and the over fill plug location. Found one plug at the rear passenger side just above the pan it has a allen head.I had thought it might be the over flow. As to the fill I am still not sure. Please a little help here. (ZF24 5HP)98/VDP
Thanks
Bill
Thanks
Bill
#2
Tranny Fill Plug
Bill, yes the allen (hex) head plug just above the pan on passenger's (right) side near the rear is the fill plug. I believe it is metric, not sure, but I had a heck of a time getting mine out. You have to fill the tranny through this plug, after cycling through the gears and having the tranny up to temp. You fill it until fluid runs out of this plug. Easiest way is to run a tube down from the top and secure it in the fill plug and fill until it overflows (while the car is running). Be careful the tube doesn't melt as it's close to the exhaust, and it's also easy to burn your hands.
#4
Bill,
If you haven't done the job already, a couple of things to know about the dynamics of this operation:
The trans fluid will over fill the check plug if the engine isn't running, so you're going to fill as much as you can with the engine off, cap it, then start the engine.
With the engine running now, remove the cap and fill until it overflows, cap, shift through all the gears, etc.
Hydraulic fluid (trans fluid) expands when hot. So, with a cold transmission, you will have too much fluid in the trans, but as it warms up to the check temp (40c) the fluid will expand and begin dripping out. With a probe in the fluid, once 40c is reached, remove the probe and cap. That is the right level. If you reach 50c with the cap off, then too much fluid has expanded and spilled out. You'll then be low and you have to cap, cool down and start all over again.
This is easier than it sounds, or at least after you've done a few. It takes a while to reach the check temp, so it's not going to come up suddenly and catch you off guard.
If you haven't done the job already, a couple of things to know about the dynamics of this operation:
The trans fluid will over fill the check plug if the engine isn't running, so you're going to fill as much as you can with the engine off, cap it, then start the engine.
With the engine running now, remove the cap and fill until it overflows, cap, shift through all the gears, etc.
Hydraulic fluid (trans fluid) expands when hot. So, with a cold transmission, you will have too much fluid in the trans, but as it warms up to the check temp (40c) the fluid will expand and begin dripping out. With a probe in the fluid, once 40c is reached, remove the probe and cap. That is the right level. If you reach 50c with the cap off, then too much fluid has expanded and spilled out. You'll then be low and you have to cap, cool down and start all over again.
This is easier than it sounds, or at least after you've done a few. It takes a while to reach the check temp, so it's not going to come up suddenly and catch you off guard.
The following 2 users liked this post by steve11:
coastaljag98 (12-01-2012),
Premier1one (12-01-2012)
#5
All great info! not just for me but others that are doing the job. As I said I read all posts and some times things that are typed are hard to understand unless the wording is just right.Another trans question if you have the time,it seams that when I am stopped at a light and ease forward a little the trans acts like it will shift in and out of gear with a little jerk now and then. Other then that it shifts strong and sounds like it should,just thought some one had the same problem.
Thanks
Bill
98/XJ8 VDP
Thanks
Bill
98/XJ8 VDP
#6
At 54k miles I have 6qt of Valoline Import ATF and a filter in stock.
The procedure that I have noodled out would certainly not work for a professional technician but . . . .
Seems that another quart/liter will drain out of the transmission after sitting for a day. Since my car is a toy car I would leave it idle for a day then jack the rear up to allow draining the ATF into a shallow, clean, $3/12qt/6" high plastic pan through the pan drain plug. Remove the pan transferring the ATF that didn't drain through the plug into the shallow pan, change the filter, replace the pan.
Measure the volume of ATF drained by a calibrated milk jug measuring tool prepared before hand. Expect about 6 quarts. Add an additional 1/2 qt of fluid for the filter.
Replace the same volume of ATF via the transmission fill plug by whatever pump, tube or other means available with the right rear of the car elevated to reduce spills.
Replace the fill plug, start the car and see what happens.
If you need to get into transmission temp, 40 degrees C. is about 105 degrees, hold your hand on the bottom of the pan. As long as you can hold it there the temp is ok for filling. Too hot, too hot for filling.
Comments appreciated.
The procedure that I have noodled out would certainly not work for a professional technician but . . . .
Seems that another quart/liter will drain out of the transmission after sitting for a day. Since my car is a toy car I would leave it idle for a day then jack the rear up to allow draining the ATF into a shallow, clean, $3/12qt/6" high plastic pan through the pan drain plug. Remove the pan transferring the ATF that didn't drain through the plug into the shallow pan, change the filter, replace the pan.
Measure the volume of ATF drained by a calibrated milk jug measuring tool prepared before hand. Expect about 6 quarts. Add an additional 1/2 qt of fluid for the filter.
Replace the same volume of ATF via the transmission fill plug by whatever pump, tube or other means available with the right rear of the car elevated to reduce spills.
Replace the fill plug, start the car and see what happens.
If you need to get into transmission temp, 40 degrees C. is about 105 degrees, hold your hand on the bottom of the pan. As long as you can hold it there the temp is ok for filling. Too hot, too hot for filling.
Comments appreciated.
The following 2 users liked this post by test point:
coastaljag98 (12-01-2012),
jimlombardi (10-02-2011)
#7
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#8
All great info! not just for me but others that are doing the job. As I said I read all posts and some times things that are typed are hard to understand unless the wording is just right.Another trans question if you have the time,it seams that when I am stopped at a light and ease forward a little the trans acts like it will shift in and out of gear with a little jerk now and then. Other then that it shifts strong and sounds like it should,just thought some one had the same problem.
Thanks
Bill
98/XJ8 VDP
Thanks
Bill
98/XJ8 VDP
The jerking shift sounds like the "lurch". This is not going to be corrected by a fluid change. It requires a computer reflash using a WDS (or SDD now). The ECM/TCM waits too long for the last downshift and the reflash corrects this. The Lurch was more common in S-Types.
Last edited by steve11; 04-27-2010 at 05:30 AM.
#10
Bill,
I cannot tell you. Every dealer charges what they feel the traffic will bear, especially on diagnostics stuff. They know you have very little choice with WDS/SDD diagnostics. Of course, to defend them, they've paid a lot for the exclusive capability.
I'd start by calling the dealer, describing the problem, tell them that you understand there is a TSB on it. Ask them for an estimate. If they say they need to see the car, ask them if they discover the TCM or ECM needs a reflash, how much do they charge for it. That will save you the trip there if the price is ridiculous, and it just might be.
I cannot tell you. Every dealer charges what they feel the traffic will bear, especially on diagnostics stuff. They know you have very little choice with WDS/SDD diagnostics. Of course, to defend them, they've paid a lot for the exclusive capability.
I'd start by calling the dealer, describing the problem, tell them that you understand there is a TSB on it. Ask them for an estimate. If they say they need to see the car, ask them if they discover the TCM or ECM needs a reflash, how much do they charge for it. That will save you the trip there if the price is ridiculous, and it just might be.
#11
At 54k miles I have 6qt of Valoline Import ATF and a filter in stock.
The procedure that I have noodled out would certainly not work for a professional technician but . . . .
Seems that another quart/liter will drain out of the transmission after sitting for a day. Since my car is a toy car I would leave it idle for a day then jack the rear up to allow draining the ATF into a shallow, clean, $3/12qt/6" high plastic pan through the pan drain plug. Remove the pan transferring the ATF that didn't drain through the plug into the shallow pan, change the filter, replace the pan.
Measure the volume of ATF drained by a calibrated milk jug measuring tool prepared before hand. Expect about 6 quarts. Add an additional 1/2 qt of fluid for the filter.
Replace the same volume of ATF via the transmission fill plug by whatever pump, tube or other means available with the right rear of the car elevated to reduce spills.
Replace the fill plug, start the car and see what happens.
If you need to get into transmission temp, 40 degrees C. is about 105 degrees, hold your hand on the bottom of the pan. As long as you can hold it there the temp is ok for filling. Too hot, too hot for filling.
Comments appreciated.
The procedure that I have noodled out would certainly not work for a professional technician but . . . .
Seems that another quart/liter will drain out of the transmission after sitting for a day. Since my car is a toy car I would leave it idle for a day then jack the rear up to allow draining the ATF into a shallow, clean, $3/12qt/6" high plastic pan through the pan drain plug. Remove the pan transferring the ATF that didn't drain through the plug into the shallow pan, change the filter, replace the pan.
Measure the volume of ATF drained by a calibrated milk jug measuring tool prepared before hand. Expect about 6 quarts. Add an additional 1/2 qt of fluid for the filter.
Replace the same volume of ATF via the transmission fill plug by whatever pump, tube or other means available with the right rear of the car elevated to reduce spills.
Replace the fill plug, start the car and see what happens.
If you need to get into transmission temp, 40 degrees C. is about 105 degrees, hold your hand on the bottom of the pan. As long as you can hold it there the temp is ok for filling. Too hot, too hot for filling.
Comments appreciated.
A few things Testpoint -
why go all around the standard procedure? It's actually not that bad. I've seen DIYers do this job and the 6 speed first time, out of the box without failure....even if they spill a little fluid they got it right in the end.
The 5HP24 yields about 4.5/5 qts on the discharge. The 6 speed is an 8 qt refill with about 7.5 qts discharged. The correct oil change process is counter intuitive, but you're going to over fill the trans, then spill out the correct amount at the specified temp.
I've seen your process described before. Drain out what is in the pan, measure it, refill the same amount that you took out - Question is, how do you know the amount you took out is the correct amount the trans should have? What if it was low, which is more likely if the fluid is 50K/60K/70K old? Then you'll refill it low.
On the fluid level plug - with the engine off, all the trans fluid that would be circulating through the trans (except the torque conv.) ends up in the pan, so pulling the fill plug with the engine off is going to yield a lot of fluid and I don't think you can get one corner of the car high enough to get all 4.5/5 qts in w/o losing some fluid. The 6 speed is far worse because about 70% of the entire fill ends up in the pan when the engine is not running.
Using your hand on the pan is not likely to yield the correct fluid temp. The difference between 40c and 50c (105F to 122F) is close enough to the touch to be inaccurate. If the temp of the fluid exceeds 122F, but the pan still feels cooler to the touch, the trans will be underfilled. I know some techs use an infrared reader on the pan, but I believe (hope) they're taking into account the fluid is going to reach temp much faster than that temp is transferred to the pan. A direct probe in the fluid is the only accurate way IMO.
One last thing - Strongly recommend not lifting one corner of an XJ8 with lots of aluminum components/crossmembers on it, or especially an XK8 roadster. Regardless of what work I'm doing on an XJ8/XK8, I either use a car lift, or lift the entire front or rear of the car evenly using two floor jacks. On the X350 (all aluminum) this is detrimental and the JTIS warns against lifting any one corner as permanent chassis twisting can occur.
I apologize if this comes across as argumentative, but some things rub me wrongly about this process. Hope you don't mind the opinion.
Last edited by steve11; 04-28-2010 at 07:34 AM.
The following users liked this post:
coastaljag98 (12-01-2012)
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#18
ZF5HP24 Transmision Technical Guide PDF file
Hi
Here is a PDF file that gives a short Technical information on the ZF5HP24 Transmission (7 pages) extracted from the AJV8/ZF5HP24 Technical Guide PDF file (page 1 shows the location of the level/filler plug):
Jaguar XJ8 (X308) 5HP24 transmission Tech info.pdf
The rest of the complete guide (the other 70 pages) describes the engine with short paragraphs & illustrations about all of the engine operating systems from cooling, Lubrication, Timing, Air Intake, Fuel, etc.
I will post the engine info in another new thread.
Jim Lombardi
Here is a PDF file that gives a short Technical information on the ZF5HP24 Transmission (7 pages) extracted from the AJV8/ZF5HP24 Technical Guide PDF file (page 1 shows the location of the level/filler plug):
Jaguar XJ8 (X308) 5HP24 transmission Tech info.pdf
The rest of the complete guide (the other 70 pages) describes the engine with short paragraphs & illustrations about all of the engine operating systems from cooling, Lubrication, Timing, Air Intake, Fuel, etc.
I will post the engine info in another new thread.
Jim Lombardi
Last edited by jimlombardi; 09-21-2012 at 11:46 AM.
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