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I would not bother with replacing the downstream (lower) 02 sensor. It’s primary job is to monitor the catalyst efficiency. Focus on that upper one. When you get really frustrated, walk away for 5-10 minutes because that’s when the biggest mistakes occur.
I would not bother with replacing the downstream (lower) 02 sensor. It’s primary job is to monitor the catalyst efficiency. Focus on that upper one. When you get really frustrated, walk away for 5-10 minutes because that’s when the biggest mistakes occur.
yes! Great advice. Definitely not a fast job, but it’s doable. Going into this, a person needs patience and time. Walking away, stretching the legs and the kinks out, is always preferable to breaking the clamp, or the hose that’s got ya tied up. Thank you 🙏
Almost another full day. No progress. That sensor is frozen solid . From the top, or bottom. Have used 3 different tools, breaking bars, and all 3 sockets that were supplied for sensor removal. Won’t budge. Disconnected the Cat from top,4 bolts. Disconnected it from bottom bracket, released the clamp from exhaust pipe (broke that bolt), and the exhaust will not give enough to wiggle the connection fromCat loose. It’s inside the exhaust pipe about 2 inches. Can I get it out? Yes. Will absolutely never get it back together without exhaust pipe to silencer moving back those 2 inches and it’s not moving even 1/4 inch. Stopped just short of clearing the pipe so I could think this thru, and do not see it going back together without removal of the exhaust pipe. Just no room.
Sorry to hear that you’re having such a hard time. Do you have a sawzall that you could cut the top of the sensor off with? You could then use a thick wall, deep well socket on it. But, the cat would have to be put back in place for support purposes. The chrome sockets are generally thin wall sockets and would be more likely to slip and not provide enough gripping power.
Sorry to hear that you’re having such a hard time. Do you have a sawzall that you could cut the top of the sensor off with? You could then use a thick wall, deep well socket on it. But, the cat would have to be put back in place for support purposes. The chrome sockets are generally thin wall sockets and would be more likely to slip and not provide enough gripping power.
Took the cat all the way out and finally called my brother in law for the assistance that I knew was need when it needed to be put back together.
I replaced the downstream also, because I hate unfinished business and the value on scanner really bugged me seeing only zeros. The upstream was seriously seized, not just a little! Barely enough corners left after all the trying, to get the sockets to grab, but finally it let go. Cleaned up all threads, chased them and cleaned out nicely. Bought new lower sensor and had both installed by the time Mac got here to help.
Having the second eyes, and ideas as we put it all back together was worth the dinner it cost me. No cutting on anything was done, and I had the electric plugs already on leads to pull back up and routed before we started.
Now, the car fired right up, no stall at idle and smoothed out quickly. Did a few cold starts, checked the codes ( no P1647!), and did a live scan and both O2 sensors working and values changing perfectly. Cleared codes, and car wouldn’t restart. Ugh 😩. No panic. Turned on key, checked scanner for anything new, cleared out again. Started right up. Idled nice. Never did before. Only showing PO103 and the 112. Restricted Performance still scrolls across dash, but no codes still. I have read it takes a few starts or drives to go away. Couldn’t test drive, since I still have the coolant leaking at the clamp at rear of engine from the metal water line that becomes a rubber hose and heads into the Octopus of hoses. That’s next, but I expect the clamp gave out or a split hose. All the other hoses and clamps are clean, with No evidence of weather cracking or deterioration. This looks good too, so hoping for a simple fix. Don’t have any idea how the clamp works or releases as of yet.
Thank you for rolling with me on this HighHorse and Addicted. Your ideas and advice, photos and tutorials were all received well and used.
Don't worry too much about the lack of signal from the downstream O2S for now. Early OBDII Jaguars like your X308 are not particularly good at providing Live Data. Autel scanners are very good at reading available data, so for now I would worry about the known issue with the upstream sensor. That doesn't mean the downstream sensor hasn't failed. It is certainly possible that both sensors could be damaged by a malfunction in Bank 2, such as severe misfires, the head gasket leaking coolant into the exhaust, etc., but you would likely have other symptoms and DTCs if that were the case.
Bank 2 or B is on the left side of the engine as viewed from the driver's seat (U.S. driver's side). Here is the cylinder numbering diagram:
This chart is from the document you can download at the link below:
Don, I went ahead and replaced both. I never want to see that Cat from the ground looking up, again! Lol. It was a very “learning” and humbling experience, and the Jags workmanship was so evident in everything I touched. I did the final write up below and I can’t thank everyone enough.
A few more repairs to fix,( water leak at rear, at the clamp ) and some fine tuning. Thank you sir.
I bet you went into this like “a half day at most.” 😂
These cars can be a serious learning curve and much patience is required but, at the end they’re fun and can be rewarding to own as it’s not like all the other boring vehicles on the road.
Congratulations on your persistence and successful completion of a very difficult job!
For future readers of this thread, below is a chart of the Jaguar Engine Management System Original Equipment Manufacturers (EMS OEMs) that will help you identify the optimal OEM upstream oxygen sensors for your car.
Vehicles equipped with Lucas or Sagem/Lucas GEMS EMS used Lucas-branded Bosch oxygen sensors.
Vehicles equipped with Denso EMS used Denso oxygen sensors.
Vehicles equipped with the PTEC EMS used NTK or Bosch oxygen sensors (both companies claim to have produced the Original Equipment sensors). PTEC is a Ford/Motorola system.
Vehicles equipped with the Zytec (Zytek) EMS used Bosch or Lucas-branded Bosch sensors.
I thought so, that scenery looked real familiar, probably toward Port Orange? I'm over in Orlando, Addicted is up in JAX.
very close to Port Orange! Living in Paradise and glad we aren’t in Orlando. I drive 18’s all day and all over your area, Lake Nona and Disney area. So glad we live here and not in that mess.
LOL...now you know why I have Trying to escape Central FL in my location. I have a good friend who drives 18's for Publix....I'm trying to help him find a 308.
LOL...now you know why I have Trying to escape Central FL in my location. I have a good friend who drives 18's for Publix....I'm trying to help him find a 308.
I may get finished with this and if the wife doesn’t love it, it will be for sale. Doubtful but possible. The workmanship and European detail is amazing. And this one was built in London too!
Not replacing the sensors on the other side. Especially not this weekend. Car runs good as far as I can tell. And I have some making up to do with wife about how last weekend was lost under a hood and all the beautiful weather we missed doing and enjoying it. Was a great weekend for mechanic stuff if u ask me. 😐☀️
Great write-ups highorse, leaves very little to the imagination. I had already tackled Bank 1, and prepping to tackle bank 2, when I found these posts, and never imagined I would find such detailed info. Great stuff.
Question of a connector.
I have a 1999 XJ8 with a Jaguar replaced engine. I ordered an O2 sensor online, after seeing a video of someone else replacing their O2 sensors with the part: Bosch 15627 F00E 262 324 CR1
After puling the old Bank 1 upstream sensor out without too much trouble I checked the old sensor against the new visually against the new, and much to my chagrin they were not the same.
Back to my video to see ifI could see the connector and in the video it is the same connector as on my old part.
After contacting the parts supplier they sent me a screen grab of sensor information (no root link) saying 15627 was meant be a male connector.
If you see the photo below for left to right you an see:
1. The box 15627
2. The new part with male connector prongs
3. The old part with female connector sockets. (No the two do not click together)
I am wondering if anyone has run into this issue before, or perhaps the 15627 part possibly comes with different connector options?
The second O2 sensor which I ordered should arrive anyway now and is a Denso. Will be interesting see what connector is on there. I will update the post.
Omsok, go introduce yourself over in the new member section of the forum as it’s required.
What you have happening is that you have the correct box with the wrong part in it. I’ve seen it multiple times over the last several decades. Whether it was a mistake that someone from the factory packaged it wrong or someone else bought it online, took out the expensive part, replaced it with a cheaper part in the box and returned it for a full refund is unknown. Either way you’ll have to contact your parts supplier for a replacement.
02-19-2022, 07:19 AM
True words
Bosch 15627 X308 1999 MY compatibility
...+1 on Addicted's analogy.