When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Yes, I have had the wrong part in the right box....several times. The hardest part of that is
convincing the salesclerk that you are not the one responsible for the switch. Especially so
if the part had to be shipped in and they have nothing to compare it with.
Welcome to the Jaguar Forums! It's great to have you with us!
Addicted2boost nailed it: Here's a photo from Rock Auto showing the Bosch 15627:
Here's a photo of Denso 2349016:
For future reference, the Engine Management System in your car was made by Denso, as were, as far as I can recall, all of the critical EMS sensors. I highly recommend using Denso replacements whenever they are available, even though they may cost a bit more. The specifications of aftermarket sensors, even from excellent companies such as Bosch, may be close but not exactly the same as the OE Denso sensors, so better to be safe than sorry. If Denso parts are no longer available or affordable, then certainly parts from other OEMs such as Bosch, NTK, Delphi, Hitachi, etc. may be the best we can get.
Please visit the New Member Area - Intro a MUST and post a required introduction so we can learn something about you and your Jaguar and give you a proper welcome.
Hi all- I have the P1647 code, but the car is running as strong as it ever has. Is there a reason to replace this other than just getting rid of the Check Engine Light? If so, I'll pay my shop to do it, but not super excited about the bill for what looks like 6 hours of labor to change a silly O2 sensor that isn't impacting how the car drives.
This is a fishing type code on the upstream driver side O2...that being to check the harness of the sensor for any damage. To root out the easiest and most common issue (the O2 itself), ..disconnect and check the harness (pins and wires, corrosion)...then meter the two same colored wires (usually black or white depending on maker) to the O2....these are for the heating element. All your doing is checking for continuity on those wires, you want zero for a closed loop if its good. If you come back with a reading, then it's open and that is almost 100% your issue, change the O2. If this isn't the issue, then it's fishing time, it may be a PCM.
If you look at Post #1, this is your culprit and procedure for replacement with as detailed an explanation as you'll find. This is very doable by a DYI'er, the part # is even on the box. Why they are charging so much time is a bit suspicious, it should only be about an hour, unless they think they have to do the other bank (Post #2), then that one is more time consuming, though I still don't think 6 hrs worth. Ask them if they are doing both upstream, that would probably explain the time.