Hello
Here is some more information on the valve body parts. I call eriksson ZF transmission and found out that the valve body part# 1058 327 022 is not available and is on order from ZF. It's normal list price is $289.04 and $236.48 wholesale.

They also have a rebuilt that you can buy with oversize bore and pistons for $200 plus refundable $50 core charge.

The other part is 1058 327 068. It is in stock, list price is $369.94 and $298.58 wholesale.

I sent an email to CTSC and their reply was the same on the 1st part (unavailable) they did not mention rebuild part or the price when available. Their price for 1058 327 068 is $165.33. You might want to call them about the price (big different in price between these 2 vendors - maybe one is the casting and the other the assembly? ).

Looks like at least $400 plus to change these 2 parts.

Jim Lombardi

 

Jim -
For future reference, do you have a recommendation for a transmission rebuilder in the CT/MA/NH area? (mine's OK so far, but you never know!) It's educational to watch these DIY transmission repairs, but getting the unit in and out of the car might be a bit too daunting, especially without a large garage workspace and lift.

 

Hi Boomer
I used internet search for ZF transmission authorized dealer locations - genuine ZF parts

In Connecticut only Eriksson shows up - Eriksson Industries They have a great local reputation. I had our transmission rebuilt here about a year ago.
You have to find a local mechanic to remove and reinstall the transmission. Eriksson only provides rebuilding service, parts sales and rebuilt transmission (whatever he has in their inventory).

I looked at the ZF Dealer Locator and found Transtar Industries. Shrewsbury, Massachusetts. 3 Polito Drive and also in Salem NH.

I found Transtar corporate website - Transmission Parts - Transtar Industries Inc.
There is no website for their Shrewsbury location - It does not look like they do any inhouse transmission rebuilding at Shrewsbury, but they might sell rebuilt units.

Not sure if this helps - it seems like Eriksson is the only regional ZF authorized dealer that rebuilds our transmissions in his local shop.

If you ever need to have your transmission rebuilt, I can recommend 2 reputable indy shops near me to remove and reinstall your transmission at reasonable price and maybe you can get Eriksson to give a deal on the transmission rebuilding.

Jim Lombardi

 

Well after a lot of hard work, I got the transmission back into the car with all its new parts. Filled it with trans fluid and checked the level according to the instructions. Shifted the car through its gears and everything seemed fine. Put the car down on the ground and pulled it forward and back and everything seemed fine. Took the car out of the driveway and down about two blocks and the car went to shift into second and it slipped and would not go into any gear. Had to push it back home and thought that maybe I did not get enough fluid into it. So I jacked it back up and checked the fluid, about a half a litre of fluid came out when I pulled the plug while the car was running and still up to temp. Also noticed a muffled rattling sound coming from the torque converter area. So now I am at a loss. I am thinking it might have been the torque converter or oil pump all along. I was wondering if anyone else has had any torque converter issues or any ideas as to what might be wrong. I was going to see if I can do a pressure test to see if I have any pressure. I guess I overlooked the dark black fluid that I pumped out of the torque converter. Maybe that was my sign that I should have been looking for as a failure point. Well anyone that has any ideas, would love to hear them. Thanks...

 

I understand you ordered the new valve, is it any design difference between the new one versus the old? Do you remember something being different?

 

Sorry for the delay in response flay. I have been under the weather lately. To answer your question, I did not see any difference in the replacement valve. Unfortunately when I put the transmission back in I broke my oil pump gear so I had to pull the transmission again. I decided since I had the trans out again to just replace the section of the valve body with the pressure valve. I purchased a remaned part from Ericksson Indutries, they overbore the pressure valve and provide a larger diameter piston for it. I had to transfer all the other valves to the new part. At this point I am just getting back to getting the transmission back in the car. Hoping all my efforts have paid off.

 

Having rebuilt several automatics (the first one on the basis of "it's already broken so what is there to lose?) my experience is that it is not too difficult, you just have to be methodical and take your time. Essential things you need are: a GOOD exploded diagram and/or the ASTG manual (not sure there is a Jag ATSG), zip-lock bags to segregate parts as you dissasemble (and MARK the bags) and a digital camera. I would never go to all the trouble of removing and taking apart a transmission and not totally disassemble it for inspection and replacement of all seals, o-rings and gaskets. A seal and gasket kit is cheap and you do not want to have to do this job twice (ask me how i know that). You may need a few specialty tools but they are cheaper than buying a rebuilt tranny and a small hydraulic press from Harbor Freight is invaluable for dis-assembly and re-assembly of clutches. The hardest part of every one i have done has been getting in out and back into the vehicle.

 

Well got the trans back into the car and got her all buttoned back up. Filled with fluid and back on the road again. (knocking on wood) All things seem to be operating properly and very well. No faults from the trans, just an evap fault out of the blue but there is a good chance I may have bumped evap lines under the car whilst I was putting the prop shaft and exhaust back in or its just a coincidence. haha Glad to be back on the road, she will get new rubber this week and that should make her ride like she should. Tires are seperating from sitting.

 

Hi Jeff, reading through your post I understand you've removed the gear box from the car several times? So is it easy to do with the engine in place? I have a sinking feeling my transmission will have to be removed from my car and am hoping the whole engine doesn't have to come out. It could lead to a replacement Gear box but I hope it doesn't.

Ta,
Stu.

 

Stu, yes the transmission can be removed alone. You have to drop the exhaust and the drive shaft first and then you can remove the transmission. You will have to get the car pretty high in the air to get the transmission out from under the car. Once you do it a couple times it gets easier. Haha.

 

Hi Jeff,
I find myself in the unfortunate circumstance of needing to replace my 98 XJR's transmission. I have been giving some thought to tackling it myself. I do not have a lift, so have been wondering about how difficult it may be doing it from the floor. Did you use a lift or did you do it without? If you did it without, it may provide some confidence to go forward.

Could you advise?

Thanks

Wayne

 

Hey Wayne, I used my trusty floor jack and 4 jack stands. I jack the front and rear of the car up enough that it is comfortable to get under it on a creeper and not too high so I can reach up around the trans to get to the bolts. You will need the rear of the car up high enough so you can get the exhaust and the drive shaft out. Youa will end up having to jack the car up pretty high to get the trans out from under the car. I had a nice wood block that i had to put on my jack so i could get the car high enough to get the trans out. Since I was familiar with what needed to be done from the top, I took everything loose on top while the car was still on the ground so I was not having to stretch over it while it was up in the air. The first time I had to go back and forth from being under the car to the top side to make sure I got everything disconnected. Your XJR will be a bit different since I believe you have a mb trans instead of the zf. And not sure but you may have less room on the topside to get to the trans bolts. There are two on the top of mine that were very difficult to get to, especially to get the torque wrench in there. Well good luck to you, it is a fun job.

 

Thanks Jeff,
I guess I should give it a go.
By the way, nice job on dismantling and rebuilding yours. I enjoyed the photos. Perhaps I will delve into mine after getting a replacement in.

Best Regards

Wayne