1999 x308

Ok after 2 months of drilling out the half broken crank shaft bolt with out damaging the threads, I am now at the stage of installing the oil seal.
Anyone need advice on how to successfully drill a broken crankshaft bolt, drop me a line , I have a many tricks now on how to accomplish it.

To the oil seal, the "furry side" I notice form the old seal should be facing out, I made an installation tool with some pvc pipe. Can someone advise as whether or not to leave the plastic inner ring on the new seal on while installing or taken it off and have the pvc pipe press on the seal itself.?

Should I press the new seal on dry?. or maybe apply some non-hardening aviation gasket liquid (oil resistant suitable for engines building) to give some lubrication while installing while also locking the installed seal?

What do I lubricate the pulley damper nose with which goes inside the seal and the face of the seal for that matter?

Advice appreciate

Best regards
Peter

 

Weeeell....you certainly have been presenting yourself with a dilema ;o)
NEVER EVER replace a seal dry!
The outer part of the seal should have a very slight smear of seal or bearing mount made by Threadlock or similar.
The internal part of the seal should be lubricated with silicon grease.
The type used by brake specialists is ideal to prevent the seal lip from
'scorching' dry on start up.
The 'sharp' edge of seal as you know should face inwards.

Which begs the question....how come you broke the bolt in the first place??

 

The crankshaft bolt broke when I was removing it to change the leaking oil seal. It seems the previous monkey/idiots who did the timing tensioners years ago used a rattlegun to overtighten the bolt.

"seal or bearing mount" made by threadlock is not available here in Australia... what else should I use? Howabout high temperature gasket sealant, the stuff used in engine rebuilds?
regards
Peter

 

Plonkers!
I often wonder why some people are allowed to breath ;o)
It is available....look up the Loctite web site for the correct product.

 

There's really no justification for that since what you originally wrote was:

"Threadlock" is clearly not the same as "Loctite".

It's not surprising that Osyris wouldn't be able to find an imaginary brand.

 

I have Loctite No.3, its the non-hardening aviation sealant which is what I was thinking of using, but I will look at the other locktite products .
regards
Peter

 

Some of the crank seals are Teflon and should be installed dry.
Mike

 

Good point!!

The Teflon seals have no spring and has lines on the surface area.

Many install the seal (dry of course) and let it sit for several hours before starting the engine..

I would check further on this prior to installing it, I would not want to have to change it again any time soon..

 

Yep, teflon coated seals are ALWAYS supposed to be installed dry and NEVER lubricated.

http://www.reinz.de/pictures/39-0025...PTFE-low-e.pdf

http://www.skf.com/group/products/se...als/index.html

 

how do I know if mine if Teflon coated?... Its a 1999 x308 , the harmonic balance nose fits in between the seal AND crankshaft, so the seal doesn't touch the crankshaft itself.
The seal has 3 or 4 lines around it on its surface where it contacts the timing cover.
Peter

 

See post #8 above