One brake light, trunk release not working
#1
One brake light, trunk release not working
I recently had a battery problem that resulted in a malfunction to my security locking module (results were NO TAIL LIGHTS, AND TRUNK OPEN ALERT) although, the brake lights worked.
Replaced the module and everything was fine for about two weeks.
Now I have one brake light (right) that's not working and my trunk only opens with the key, neither the button or remote will open it. The brake/tail light bulb is new.
Tail lights are fine, turn signal works. Just no brake light on that side.
Strangely, I went to try the trunk again, and the button and remote worked....once. And then stopped working again.
Should I pull the SLM and reinstall?? Or any other thoughts?
Many thanks to all.
Replaced the module and everything was fine for about two weeks.
Now I have one brake light (right) that's not working and my trunk only opens with the key, neither the button or remote will open it. The brake/tail light bulb is new.
Tail lights are fine, turn signal works. Just no brake light on that side.
Strangely, I went to try the trunk again, and the button and remote worked....once. And then stopped working again.
Should I pull the SLM and reinstall?? Or any other thoughts?
Many thanks to all.
#3
#4
Okay, went and jacked around with the wiring, pulled some fuses just to check, and the trunk is now working fine. So now all I have is the rear build fail warning and no right brake light (tail light is fine). Any idea which color of the several wires would that be? Also hearing a pretty loud "click" from under the center console when I depress the brake pedal. Normal?
Thank you!
Thank you!
#6
#7
If you look at the brake light you should see a black wire, that is the ground. Run your temporary wire from that side of the bulb to a ground point on the car.
If the light then works you have break in the original ground wire.
You can then leave the temporary wire in place until you get the original repaired.
If the light then works you have break in the original ground wire.
You can then leave the temporary wire in place until you get the original repaired.
Trending Topics
#8
#9
#10
#11
Yep. The red/white wire is the power line and the black is the ground. The ground looks to have a bit corrosion in there, could be the photo.
You will find the grounds are all ganged together through the board so you will need to dismantle one step further to see it and get to the ground side of the lamp base.
Before you do that, try cleaning the lamp base to ensure you have a good connection.
You will find the grounds are all ganged together through the board so you will need to dismantle one step further to see it and get to the ground side of the lamp base.
Before you do that, try cleaning the lamp base to ensure you have a good connection.
The following users liked this post:
3timejag (09-18-2016)
#12
#13
Hi Scot, firstly I gave you the wrong coloured wire for the power line, it is the blue and white one not the red and white, sorry.
Before you take anything else apart. Using a volt meter on volts, place one lead to the blue and white and the other to the car body and then get someone to press the brake pedal.
If you get 12v then your problem is the lamp or lampholder or the ground.
If you don't get 12v then the problem is either a broken power line or with the module itself.
To check the line, disconnect at the module and cluster and with the meter now switched to ohms place the test leads at either end of the blue and white wire and if it is good you should see a reading of around 0.1 - 0.3 ohms.
If all the above check out then your problem will be in the module.
Let me know how you get on.
Before you take anything else apart. Using a volt meter on volts, place one lead to the blue and white and the other to the car body and then get someone to press the brake pedal.
If you get 12v then your problem is the lamp or lampholder or the ground.
If you don't get 12v then the problem is either a broken power line or with the module itself.
To check the line, disconnect at the module and cluster and with the meter now switched to ohms place the test leads at either end of the blue and white wire and if it is good you should see a reading of around 0.1 - 0.3 ohms.
If all the above check out then your problem will be in the module.
Let me know how you get on.
The following users liked this post:
3timejag (09-18-2016)
#14
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)