I'm stoked you're still messing with cars. Hopefully when I'm your age my back will still cooperate with me .

I'll be interested to see how the Pro-M MAF works for you. I haven't seen the best reviews regarding their customer service. That and the aforementioned thread where they basically told us to kick rocks doesn't have me feeling too good about ordering one. At least not yet.

Right now the biggest hurdle to doing the throttle body is I have to take it apart myself. I'm sure I can figure it out but they aren't exactly cheap or easy to find if I mess something up. The CNC will use coolant so I basically need to get it down to just the housing by itself.

Thanks for the link! I should have provided more detail, but when I said the guides I really meant everything. I will be doing all of the tensioners, chains, guides etc.

I will probably modify the exhaust slightly for sound but unfortunately there are no good options for headers for these cars. That and the cats look like the big restriction. I don't like smelly cars so I will likely leave the cats alone as long as there are no options for headers. It's a real shame because I'm willing to bet there's somewhere around 30+HP to be found by eliminating those relatively restrictive log manifolds.

 

Thank you both for the suggestions here. I am trying to make sure I start looking for all of the items I need etc. asap to minimize downtime. Are the two pulleys mentioned here the same? Different diameters? Is one preferable over the other? Is the pulley that drives the accessories the same diameter as stock? I realize these questions may not be that easy to answer so any insight is much appreciated?

 

Bump!

 

Well, I'll try to answer your questions since it has been three days since the bump and three weeks since my last post here. In my case, I've had some "honey-dos" to get done before I put the car in the garage to do some repairs, including that ProM MAF.

For those pulleys, I would say YES they're a larger size. I don't know the actual diameters, but I can't imagine someone going through the trouble to replace them unless it's an upgrade, and usually done during a full timing chain replacement. The issue, not problem, is getting the pulley off. The bolt that holds the pulley on the crankshaft is a lot of fun. It's torqued to 350NM and has a cat-turd size glob of thread locker on it. And it's pretty good thread locker. The crankshaft has to be held in place, either by the Jag tool or some other means that can handle the load for both removal and installation. Once that is setup, you get to attack the bolt. I use a three-foot 3/4 drive breaker bar initially, then after about 20 minutes of pulling that through, you might be able to switch to a ratchet. It's not really hard, as once you remove the fans there's plenty of room, but it is a good workout. Now you have to get the damper off the crank. If you're using a puller other than the Jag tool, it has to be perfectly straight to get the damper to move as there are two bolts into the damper. Others on here have been successful doing this, but I wasn't the first time I tried and ended up stripping the threads out of one of the holes. I was successful in drilling out the M6 hole and tapping it to an M8 in situ, ordered the Jag tool, and then it easily slid off.

I'll try to address some of your other comments later; got an appointment in an hour ...

Found a TSB about the crank damper R&R, attached.

 

I keep posting with pix and it deletes my information that goes with it so I’ll figure it out another day. Sorry.

 

I bought one of the jag specific tools from china for like 50 bucks and it came right off. I've already got the heads off now too. Only thing left to figure out is what to do for modifications before putting it all back together.

I have had similar issues in the past and it's extremely frustrating. I really appreciate the help. I'll send you a PM and see if I can make it easier. I am pretty crafty and may not need the photos etc.

 

If you have the heads off, I’m going to highly suggest a complete valve job with new valve stem seals. You can also adjust the valve clearances after the valves and seats are ground a bit while the heads are on the bench.
Get the MLS head gaskets with new bolts!

I’ll try to post one picture at a time.

 

could probably benefit from some port work also, but I haven't seen many people do it so maybe I'm wrong.

 

I am definitely going with the MLS gasket and new bolts. As much as I would like to do a complete head job, I do not think that is going to be feasible. First of all valve guides are not sold separately by jaguar. I would need to have custom ones fabricated. Jaguar also does not sell full shim kits, and many many sizes are not available. If I can actually get them they are 15 dollars each. Then there's the matter of all the machine shops I contacted telling me to kick rocks or hand over a very large sum of money...

In any event, I only paid $1250 dollars for the car and am trying to get it back on the road for around $3000 all in. I will measure the heads and reinstall them with new gaskets and bolts if everything is in spec. It's not ideal, but sometimes you have to work with what you have. I have done this a few times with BMW I6 heads without issue and those are longer.

I will probably do a mild port match along the intake components and exhaust ports. Nothing too crazy, but I figure why not while I can.

 

I wouldn’t be too concerned with valve guides but, I get your point and I understand. A fresh valve job is a noticeable power increase especially with high miles.

 

[QUOTE=MWC;2765343]I bought one of the jag specific tools from china for like 50 bucks and it came right off. I've already got the heads off now too. Only thing left to figure out is what to do for modifications before putting it all back together.

Hopefully you got the cam timing tools; too.

I'm still waiting for some parts to arrive before fitting the new MAF; everything for this car is mail order where I live.