Options for bolt-ons in 2024? Been searching this forum like mad.
#21
Adding to Quad's comment, yes, there's a room issue as the heads will have the exhaust manifolds fitted. I've jacked up the engine far enough to replace the motor mounts, but I think it would be too unstable to mount the heads. To jack the motor I removed the bottom motor mount and trans mount bolts and put a nice piece of 2x6 between the oil pan and jack. If you did this to fit the heads, the engine would probably roll to the side that you're doing first. So, fit the heads then twist in the studs. The head bolts are stretch bolts and they will stretch when under WOT, even with a completely stock engine.
Brand new from Pro-M. I ordered it on the website and they have a selection for Jaguar under "Non-Ford vehicles," so I just put in the comments that it's a 4.0L SC engine with stock injectors. You will also need their wiring harness and an IAT sensor. A2b provided the part number for that. I got the 80mm plastic one for a couple of reasons. The first being that the TB is 75mm and as you found out, Max quit boring. The other reason was so that it will fit in the area of the original box. It's much larger than I anticipated, so I'll have to do some fabrication for hood clearance. For now I'm sticking with the 3-inch Mina Gallery tube; might get a carbon fiber tube once I get it fitted, but if there's a chance of getting the TB bored, then I'll go bigger and definitely go with the carbon fiber tube. So, let us know if you're going to be able to bore yours, please.
BTW, I was 33 in 1987.
Brand new from Pro-M. I ordered it on the website and they have a selection for Jaguar under "Non-Ford vehicles," so I just put in the comments that it's a 4.0L SC engine with stock injectors. You will also need their wiring harness and an IAT sensor. A2b provided the part number for that. I got the 80mm plastic one for a couple of reasons. The first being that the TB is 75mm and as you found out, Max quit boring. The other reason was so that it will fit in the area of the original box. It's much larger than I anticipated, so I'll have to do some fabrication for hood clearance. For now I'm sticking with the 3-inch Mina Gallery tube; might get a carbon fiber tube once I get it fitted, but if there's a chance of getting the TB bored, then I'll go bigger and definitely go with the carbon fiber tube. So, let us know if you're going to be able to bore yours, please.
BTW, I was 33 in 1987.
I'll be interested to see how the Pro-M MAF works for you. I haven't seen the best reviews regarding their customer service. That and the aforementioned thread where they basically told us to kick rocks doesn't have me feeling too good about ordering one. At least not yet.
Right now the biggest hurdle to doing the throttle body is I have to take it apart myself. I'm sure I can figure it out but they aren't exactly cheap or easy to find if I mess something up. The CNC will use coolant so I basically need to get it down to just the housing by itself.
@MWC:
Maybe you can make use of my thread as well:
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...e-swap-266724/
It's the timing chain swap (incl guides and tensioners) on my 1999 X308, BUT not SC and no VVT.
You posted that you will swap the guides - you did not mention the tensioners, which will be just as buggered.
And why not swap the chain and "sprockets" (lacking a better word) as well?
Note that I have chosen a budget chain kit (with tensioners and guide), and meanwhile I saw a post, where some are skeptical regarding the quality of budget chain kits. I do not know, what to make of that, but I just wanted to give you the full picture.
Maybe you can make use of my thread as well:
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...e-swap-266724/
It's the timing chain swap (incl guides and tensioners) on my 1999 X308, BUT not SC and no VVT.
You posted that you will swap the guides - you did not mention the tensioners, which will be just as buggered.
And why not swap the chain and "sprockets" (lacking a better word) as well?
Note that I have chosen a budget chain kit (with tensioners and guide), and meanwhile I saw a post, where some are skeptical regarding the quality of budget chain kits. I do not know, what to make of that, but I just wanted to give you the full picture.
OP, I like where your head is at. You have been given excellent info. My car is relatively stock(see signature), so I can't be of much help. But, I don't think I saw this mentioned. Blower cars benefit decently from a free flowing exhaust. Shed some weight if you can. Though that will be hard. Other than exhaust work and spare tire. An LSD should be worthy on these cars. Qauife sells them.
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03_jaaag (07-04-2024)
#22
I also got a harmonic balancer from an 09’ XFR because the drive pulley for the blower is larger diameter than the stock XJR. I would advise against getting the 3lb blower pulley unless you have a machine shop. The blower snout needs to be precisely machined for that small pulley. I’d get the 1.5lb upper pulley for the blower instead.
#24
Well, I'll try to answer your questions since it has been three days since the bump and three weeks since my last post here. In my case, I've had some "honey-dos" to get done before I put the car in the garage to do some repairs, including that ProM MAF.
For those pulleys, I would say YES they're a larger size. I don't know the actual diameters, but I can't imagine someone going through the trouble to replace them unless it's an upgrade, and usually done during a full timing chain replacement. The issue, not problem, is getting the pulley off. The bolt that holds the pulley on the crankshaft is a lot of fun. It's torqued to 350NM and has a cat-turd size glob of thread locker on it. And it's pretty good thread locker. The crankshaft has to be held in place, either by the Jag tool or some other means that can handle the load for both removal and installation. Once that is setup, you get to attack the bolt. I use a three-foot 3/4 drive breaker bar initially, then after about 20 minutes of pulling that through, you might be able to switch to a ratchet. It's not really hard, as once you remove the fans there's plenty of room, but it is a good workout. Now you have to get the damper off the crank. If you're using a puller other than the Jag tool, it has to be perfectly straight to get the damper to move as there are two bolts into the damper. Others on here have been successful doing this, but I wasn't the first time I tried and ended up stripping the threads out of one of the holes. I was successful in drilling out the M6 hole and tapping it to an M8 in situ, ordered the Jag tool, and then it easily slid off.
I'll try to address some of your other comments later; got an appointment in an hour ...
Found a TSB about the crank damper R&R, attached.
For those pulleys, I would say YES they're a larger size. I don't know the actual diameters, but I can't imagine someone going through the trouble to replace them unless it's an upgrade, and usually done during a full timing chain replacement. The issue, not problem, is getting the pulley off. The bolt that holds the pulley on the crankshaft is a lot of fun. It's torqued to 350NM and has a cat-turd size glob of thread locker on it. And it's pretty good thread locker. The crankshaft has to be held in place, either by the Jag tool or some other means that can handle the load for both removal and installation. Once that is setup, you get to attack the bolt. I use a three-foot 3/4 drive breaker bar initially, then after about 20 minutes of pulling that through, you might be able to switch to a ratchet. It's not really hard, as once you remove the fans there's plenty of room, but it is a good workout. Now you have to get the damper off the crank. If you're using a puller other than the Jag tool, it has to be perfectly straight to get the damper to move as there are two bolts into the damper. Others on here have been successful doing this, but I wasn't the first time I tried and ended up stripping the threads out of one of the holes. I was successful in drilling out the M6 hole and tapping it to an M8 in situ, ordered the Jag tool, and then it easily slid off.
I'll try to address some of your other comments later; got an appointment in an hour ...
Found a TSB about the crank damper R&R, attached.
Last edited by hispeed42; 06-28-2024 at 01:42 PM. Reason: attached TSB
#25
#26
Well, I'll try to answer your questions since it has been three days since the bump and three weeks since my last post here. In my case, I've had some "honey-dos" to get done before I put the car in the garage to do some repairs, including that ProM MAF.
For those pulleys, I would say YES they're a larger size. I don't know the actual diameters, but I can't imagine someone going through the trouble to replace them unless it's an upgrade, and usually done during a full timing chain replacement. The issue, not problem, is getting the pulley off. The bolt that holds the pulley on the crankshaft is a lot of fun. It's torqued to 350NM and has a cat-turd size glob of thread locker on it. And it's pretty good thread locker. The crankshaft has to be held in place, either by the Jag tool or some other means that can handle the load for both removal and installation. Once that is setup, you get to attack the bolt. I use a three-foot 3/4 drive breaker bar initially, then after about 20 minutes of pulling that through, you might be able to switch to a ratchet. It's not really hard, as once you remove the fans there's plenty of room, but it is a good workout. Now you have to get the damper off the crank. If you're using a puller other than the Jag tool, it has to be perfectly straight to get the damper to move as there are two bolts into the damper. Others on here have been successful doing this, but I wasn't the first time I tried and ended up stripping the threads out of one of the holes. I was successful in drilling out the M6 hole and tapping it to an M8 in situ, ordered the Jag tool, and then it easily slid off.
I'll try to address some of your other comments later; got an appointment in an hour ...
Found a TSB about the crank damper R&R, attached.
For those pulleys, I would say YES they're a larger size. I don't know the actual diameters, but I can't imagine someone going through the trouble to replace them unless it's an upgrade, and usually done during a full timing chain replacement. The issue, not problem, is getting the pulley off. The bolt that holds the pulley on the crankshaft is a lot of fun. It's torqued to 350NM and has a cat-turd size glob of thread locker on it. And it's pretty good thread locker. The crankshaft has to be held in place, either by the Jag tool or some other means that can handle the load for both removal and installation. Once that is setup, you get to attack the bolt. I use a three-foot 3/4 drive breaker bar initially, then after about 20 minutes of pulling that through, you might be able to switch to a ratchet. It's not really hard, as once you remove the fans there's plenty of room, but it is a good workout. Now you have to get the damper off the crank. If you're using a puller other than the Jag tool, it has to be perfectly straight to get the damper to move as there are two bolts into the damper. Others on here have been successful doing this, but I wasn't the first time I tried and ended up stripping the threads out of one of the holes. I was successful in drilling out the M6 hole and tapping it to an M8 in situ, ordered the Jag tool, and then it easily slid off.
I'll try to address some of your other comments later; got an appointment in an hour ...
Found a TSB about the crank damper R&R, attached.
#27
If you have the heads off, I’m going to highly suggest a complete valve job with new valve stem seals. You can also adjust the valve clearances after the valves and seats are ground a bit while the heads are on the bench.
Get the MLS head gaskets with new bolts!
I’ll try to post one picture at a time.
Get the MLS head gaskets with new bolts!
I’ll try to post one picture at a time.
#29
If you have the heads off, I’m going to highly suggest a complete valve job with new valve stem seals. You can also adjust the valve clearances after the valves and seats are ground a bit while the heads are on the bench.
Get the MLS head gaskets with new bolts!
I’ll try to post one picture at a time.
Get the MLS head gaskets with new bolts!
I’ll try to post one picture at a time.
In any event, I only paid $1250 dollars for the car and am trying to get it back on the road for around $3000 all in. I will measure the heads and reinstall them with new gaskets and bolts if everything is in spec. It's not ideal, but sometimes you have to work with what you have. I have done this a few times with BMW I6 heads without issue and those are longer.
I will probably do a mild port match along the intake components and exhaust ports. Nothing too crazy, but I figure why not while I can.
#30
#31
[QUOTE=MWC;2765343]I bought one of the jag specific tools from china for like 50 bucks and it came right off. I've already got the heads off now too. Only thing left to figure out is what to do for modifications before putting it all back together.
Hopefully you got the cam timing tools; too.
I'm still waiting for some parts to arrive before fitting the new MAF; everything for this car is mail order where I live.
Hopefully you got the cam timing tools; too.
I'm still waiting for some parts to arrive before fitting the new MAF; everything for this car is mail order where I live.
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03_jaaag (08-16-2024)
#32
Hallo Mark, ich habe ein paar Fragen zu Ihrer Bestellung bei Pro-M.
War eine Kalibrierdatei von Pro-M enthalten?Wenn ja, könnten Sie es hier veröffentlichen?
Ohne einen größeren MAF komme ich mit meinem Projekt im Moment nicht voran. Leider gab es in vielen Beiträgen nicht viel Gutes über Pro-M zu lesen, daher zögere ich immer noch, eine Bestellung aufzugeben.
Vielen Dank für die schnelle Info und liebe Grüße, Dirk
War eine Kalibrierdatei von Pro-M enthalten?Wenn ja, könnten Sie es hier veröffentlichen?
Ohne einen größeren MAF komme ich mit meinem Projekt im Moment nicht voran. Leider gab es in vielen Beiträgen nicht viel Gutes über Pro-M zu lesen, daher zögere ich immer noch, eine Bestellung aufzugeben.
Vielen Dank für die schnelle Info und liebe Grüße, Dirk
#33
Hallo Mark, I have a few questions about your order from Pro-M. Was a calibration file from Pro-M included? If so, could you post it here? Without a larger MAF, I can't make any progress with my project at the moment. Unfortunately, there weren't many good things to read about Pro-M in many posts, so I'm still hesitant to place an order. Thank you for the quick info and kind regards, Dirk
Sorry to be late with a response, I've been doing some home improvement work and haven't been on here too much lately.
For the Pro-M, I'm experiencing the same problems as everyone else. No, I didn't receive a calibration file, or the "9 point transfer function sheet," which, according to the website is supposedly included, and I didn't order the 30 point sheet. So, it will be an adventure whenever I can get the car in the garage and finally fit this thing. My plan for fitment is to use Posi-taps for the wiring and not cut off the OEM connector until I'm satisfied with the MAF tune. That way, I can put the OEM MAF back on if needed.
Addicted2boost might be a better resource for fitting the Pro-M as he's got a 92mm unit on his car, which sounds like what you need. Or avos as he used the Pro-M on his twin screw kits.
#35
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