Passenger side rear brake light not working, already replaced bulb
#41
06-10-2010, 01:22 PM
Junior Member
SLM 2600HB 008 Issues
If any of you guys have this problem and you are sure its your module AND you don't feel comfortable soldering a new chip on the board then if you will pay shipping both ways and for the part(s) I will fix it for nothing or maybe a small fee (more likely nothing - kinda fun to do since all we do now as techs is module swap).
Cheers
Cheers
I have the same problem as everyone else on the LNG 2600HB with the right tail lights out. My mechanic jumpered from the Left tail light which after 6 months took out the left chip as well. Are you still willing to repair these modules for those of us who are not real competent with a sodier Iron. Let me know
Thanks for the information already posted it helped alot and look forward to hearing from you on the possibility of getting it repaired.
Best Regards,
Mike
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micalsjag (01-06-2011)
#42
09-08-2010, 06:56 PM
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Jack,
This is the needle in the haystack I have been looking for!! I finally know what is causing the same brake light issues that everyone on this thread has experienced. There is no power for me coming to the lamp module so it must be the SLCM. I think I have found a place where I can get the components that you mentioned you replaced.
Are you still able to help us long-suffering "Check Rear Lights" people inept at circuit board repairs? If not, do you think that if I took this to an electronics repair shop, with the information on this thread, that they would be able to repair it with ease?
I am so excited about possibly getting this fixed in the near future, I have had this light issue on for 1.5 years now.
This is the needle in the haystack I have been looking for!! I finally know what is causing the same brake light issues that everyone on this thread has experienced. There is no power for me coming to the lamp module so it must be the SLCM. I think I have found a place where I can get the components that you mentioned you replaced.
Are you still able to help us long-suffering "Check Rear Lights" people inept at circuit board repairs? If not, do you think that if I took this to an electronics repair shop, with the information on this thread, that they would be able to repair it with ease?
I am so excited about possibly getting this fixed in the near future, I have had this light issue on for 1.5 years now.
#43
09-08-2010, 07:05 PM
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Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Chicago
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I am so thankful to have found this thread!! Pretty much all of my questions have been answered and I know how I can fix my faulty right hand brake light without spending $1000 on a new SLCM!! I am going to take it out in the near future, purchase the needed components (BTS409L1 from Digi-Key), and either send the SLCM to Jack, find a place that will repair it or learn how to do so myself.
My question is, is there anything in particular that I should be aware of when removing this module? I am thinking that I should probably disconnect my batter but aside from that is there anything else that is mandatory when proceeding with the removal of the SLCM?
Thanks to all who have contributed to this post already and to anyone who is able to assist me, much appreciated!!
My question is, is there anything in particular that I should be aware of when removing this module? I am thinking that I should probably disconnect my batter but aside from that is there anything else that is mandatory when proceeding with the removal of the SLCM?
Thanks to all who have contributed to this post already and to anyone who is able to assist me, much appreciated!!
#45
09-23-2010, 10:25 AM
Junior Member
#46
09-23-2010, 10:28 AM
Junior Member
Jack,
This is the needle in the haystack I have been looking for!! I finally know what is causing the same brake light issues that everyone on this thread has experienced. There is no power for me coming to the lamp module so it must be the SLCM. I think I have found a place where I can get the components that you mentioned you replaced.
Are you still able to help us long-suffering "Check Rear Lights" people inept at circuit board repairs? If not, do you think that if I took this to an electronics repair shop, with the information on this thread, that they would be able to repair it with ease?
I am so excited about possibly getting this fixed in the near future, I have had this light issue on for 1.5 years now.
This is the needle in the haystack I have been looking for!! I finally know what is causing the same brake light issues that everyone on this thread has experienced. There is no power for me coming to the lamp module so it must be the SLCM. I think I have found a place where I can get the components that you mentioned you replaced.
Are you still able to help us long-suffering "Check Rear Lights" people inept at circuit board repairs? If not, do you think that if I took this to an electronics repair shop, with the information on this thread, that they would be able to repair it with ease?
I am so excited about possibly getting this fixed in the near future, I have had this light issue on for 1.5 years now.
send private email.
#47
09-23-2010, 10:29 AM
Junior Member
I am so thankful to have found this thread!! Pretty much all of my questions have been answered and I know how I can fix my faulty right hand brake light without spending $1000 on a new SLCM!! I am going to take it out in the near future, purchase the needed components (BTS409L1 from Digi-Key), and either send the SLCM to Jack, find a place that will repair it or learn how to do so myself.
My question is, is there anything in particular that I should be aware of when removing this module? I am thinking that I should probably disconnect my batter but aside from that is there anything else that is mandatory when proceeding with the removal of the SLCM?
Thanks to all who have contributed to this post already and to anyone who is able to assist me, much appreciated!!
My question is, is there anything in particular that I should be aware of when removing this module? I am thinking that I should probably disconnect my batter but aside from that is there anything else that is mandatory when proceeding with the removal of the SLCM?
Thanks to all who have contributed to this post already and to anyone who is able to assist me, much appreciated!!
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Wyldman (03-15-2023)
#48
09-23-2010, 06:03 PM
Junior Member
#49
09-24-2010, 08:02 AM
Junior Member
#50
10-01-2010, 02:27 AM
Guest
Posts: n/a
Great tip, thanks, I just got the right brake light on a 2001 Vanden Plas working again.
BTW, before fixing it, I did measure 12V at the empty bulb socket even when the brake light was off. This is from the permanent control circuit that tries to find out if the bulb is broken. Once you actually put a bulb in, the voltage drops to almost 0. If you see this behavior, you can be sure that there is no cable fault. If the cable was broken, or shorted to ground, you would not see the 12 V control voltage.
The thread so far didn't mention which way to look at the board when saying the "right" circuit is for the right light: The part closest to the big Siemens solenoid is for the right (starboard) brake light. Also, in my case, the circuit board was slightly discolored on the underside of the broken part, so it must have gotten very hot.
BTW, in my case, the broken integrated circuit was not labeled BTS409L1, instead, it said 71042, but it also had the Infineon logo. I could not get any data sheets on that part. I replaced it anyway with the BTS409L1 as suggested in this thread and it worked just fine. So it seems to be safe to use this part where 71042 is found.
The soldering was not a problem. I used a small solder iron to lift the 4 pins from the circuit board, then a big one and some fresh solder to inject heat into the bottom plate of the part by touching the tiny part of it that sticks out at the end. It then came off easily. Someone in this thread was speculating that the part was glued in, that is not true. It is just soldered in. I removed all old solder with a solder wick and put some new solder onto the underside of the new part. I then soldered the back plane back in with the big iron and the 4 pins with the small one. I used a brush and the usual cleaner to remove solder paste residue around the area. Looked like new. Less than 5 minutes total.
Thanks again!!!
/M
BTW, before fixing it, I did measure 12V at the empty bulb socket even when the brake light was off. This is from the permanent control circuit that tries to find out if the bulb is broken. Once you actually put a bulb in, the voltage drops to almost 0. If you see this behavior, you can be sure that there is no cable fault. If the cable was broken, or shorted to ground, you would not see the 12 V control voltage.
The thread so far didn't mention which way to look at the board when saying the "right" circuit is for the right light: The part closest to the big Siemens solenoid is for the right (starboard) brake light. Also, in my case, the circuit board was slightly discolored on the underside of the broken part, so it must have gotten very hot.
BTW, in my case, the broken integrated circuit was not labeled BTS409L1, instead, it said 71042, but it also had the Infineon logo. I could not get any data sheets on that part. I replaced it anyway with the BTS409L1 as suggested in this thread and it worked just fine. So it seems to be safe to use this part where 71042 is found.
The soldering was not a problem. I used a small solder iron to lift the 4 pins from the circuit board, then a big one and some fresh solder to inject heat into the bottom plate of the part by touching the tiny part of it that sticks out at the end. It then came off easily. Someone in this thread was speculating that the part was glued in, that is not true. It is just soldered in. I removed all old solder with a solder wick and put some new solder onto the underside of the new part. I then soldered the back plane back in with the big iron and the 4 pins with the small one. I used a brush and the usual cleaner to remove solder paste residue around the area. Looked like new. Less than 5 minutes total.
Thanks again!!!
/M
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ThatsNoMoon (10-20-2018)
#51
10-01-2010, 03:58 AM
Veteran Member
#52
01-06-2011, 04:06 PM
I have a similar problem, but sounds like the same solution would work for me as well... my passenger brake light decided to stay on...?!?!?! I just took it to a dealer. He charged me $59.95 for diagnostics and he told me it would cost me $829.00 just for the SLCM and I can't get a sticker until it's fixed. I'm not mechanically inclined and would be happy to purchase the parts if I could get Jack to provide me some help... I LOVE the car, but it cost a lot to keep it running. It's my dream car and I'd like to keep... just lost my job a few weeks back and can't justify paying so much for the repairs... and I don't want to sell it (actually can't until I fix the lights). I'm willing to call or chat directly.
Thanks for your anticipated help...!
Mark
Thanks for your anticipated help...!
Mark
#53
01-06-2011, 04:12 PM
#54
02-04-2011, 10:59 AM
#55
07-05-2011, 04:51 PM
Junior Member
RE: 2003 XJR Bad Security and Locking Control Module and Passenger Door Microswitch?
I just bought a 2003 XJR. It seems to run well but there are a few issues that I’d like some advice on.
These are the problems:
Passenger Door Ajar message on 98% of the time
Interior lights stay on too long (recently stayed on while I drove 20 miles)
Only the driver’s door puddle light goes on when the door is opened (opening the other doors doesn’t turn on the puddle light or interior lights)
Stuck in Valet Mode
The key remote doesn’t work (replaced the remote battery and tried to program with no luck)
Car locks and unlocks and runs with the key. I also need to use the key to unlock the trunk (I only received one black key and remote with the car)
Only the high mounted brake light works (L and R brake lights and reverse lights do not work)
There’s lots of good information on this forum and from what I’ve read I suspect the car has one or more bad door latch microswitches and a bad Security and Locking Control Module. The tail lamp bulbs and sockets all seem to be good. I checked the fuses under the hood and in the trunk visually and with my multimeter. I visually checked the fuses under both sides of the rear seat. All the fuses appear to be good. I swapped positions on some of identical relays on the \trunk fuse board with no improvement.
I took the car to a trusted local shop. They work on a wide range of cars and they’re honest. They also suspect a door \microswitch and the Security and Locking Control Module and suggested I take it to a Jaguar dealer.
After reading more on this forum about the SLCM I removed the module. By the way, the full VCATS number for the module is LNG2600HB/008. It looked like someone had been here before because the case was partially open. I removed the housing and didn’t see any sign of a component over heating. I’m not an expert with the multimeter but it seems like the three 150 ohm and two 360 ohm are good. I’m not sure how to check the three 71042SE (diodes?) but when I try various test lead positions I get very close readings on all three. Maybe all three are Bad?
Sorry for the length of this posting. I love this car! Thanks in advance for any help.
These are the problems:
Passenger Door Ajar message on 98% of the time
Interior lights stay on too long (recently stayed on while I drove 20 miles)
Only the driver’s door puddle light goes on when the door is opened (opening the other doors doesn’t turn on the puddle light or interior lights)
Stuck in Valet Mode
The key remote doesn’t work (replaced the remote battery and tried to program with no luck)
Car locks and unlocks and runs with the key. I also need to use the key to unlock the trunk (I only received one black key and remote with the car)
Only the high mounted brake light works (L and R brake lights and reverse lights do not work)
There’s lots of good information on this forum and from what I’ve read I suspect the car has one or more bad door latch microswitches and a bad Security and Locking Control Module. The tail lamp bulbs and sockets all seem to be good. I checked the fuses under the hood and in the trunk visually and with my multimeter. I visually checked the fuses under both sides of the rear seat. All the fuses appear to be good. I swapped positions on some of identical relays on the \trunk fuse board with no improvement.
I took the car to a trusted local shop. They work on a wide range of cars and they’re honest. They also suspect a door \microswitch and the Security and Locking Control Module and suggested I take it to a Jaguar dealer.
After reading more on this forum about the SLCM I removed the module. By the way, the full VCATS number for the module is LNG2600HB/008. It looked like someone had been here before because the case was partially open. I removed the housing and didn’t see any sign of a component over heating. I’m not an expert with the multimeter but it seems like the three 150 ohm and two 360 ohm are good. I’m not sure how to check the three 71042SE (diodes?) but when I try various test lead positions I get very close readings on all three. Maybe all three are Bad?
Sorry for the length of this posting. I love this car! Thanks in advance for any help.
#56
07-06-2011, 09:07 PM
Junior Member
Maybe SLCM is OK. Brake and Reverse Lights now work
Since I didn’t find anything wrong with the SLCM I put it back together hoping I’d at least be able to drive it to the Jaguar dealer for further diagnosis. I used some Precision Electronics Cleaner I picked up from Radio Shack on the multipin connectors, relay sockets, and rear light plugs. I was pleasantly surprised that my brake, and reverse lights now work. Also it’s no longer in Valet Mode and I can use the interior button and trunk lid push to open the trunk! 
Guess I should have checked the basic stuff first. I hope to do some more basic contact cleaning tomorrow.
Guess I should have checked the basic stuff first. I hope to do some more basic contact cleaning tomorrow.
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jimlombardi (08-18-2011)
#57
08-18-2011, 10:04 AM
Member
#58
08-18-2011, 10:14 AM
Member
#59
08-19-2011, 10:39 AM
Junior Member
There's another module that's about a third the size of the security module, located vertically and about 3 inches closer to the trunk lid. Since it was convenient I unplug the 2 smaller plugs and sprayed those contacts too.
I'm not sure which module had the dirty contacts but after plugging everything back in, the tail light mounted brake lights, reverse lights, back up alarm, remote and push button trunk lid release all started to work.
Hope this helps with your car.
#60
08-19-2011, 11:12 AM
Junior Member