PIIII Intake Air temp sensor circuit intermittent High Voltage
#41
IT looks like you are now narrowing your issue down...
Fuel filter change is cheap and easy.
If a failing pump or filter have coursed the link lead/connections to over heat/melt its still an intermittent issue and could be difficult to confirm with out pulling the pump and looking...if the leads/connections are ok you may need a pump..
Most would change lead and pump regardless.
Good look
Fuel filter change is cheap and easy.
If a failing pump or filter have coursed the link lead/connections to over heat/melt its still an intermittent issue and could be difficult to confirm with out pulling the pump and looking...if the leads/connections are ok you may need a pump..
Most would change lead and pump regardless.
Good look
Last edited by XKR-DAY; 08-18-2019 at 11:02 PM.
#42
So it does look like a fuel pump replacement is in my immediate future.
I have researched online and on the forum regarding how to remove the tank, and I find that some people say you have to disconnect the fuel lines under the rear axle, and that it is a 100% PITA, and other videos indicate that you can wiggle the tank out enough to remove the pump without disconnecting the lines under the car, and yet another post indicated that you can remove the tank without disconnecting the fuel lines under the car but instead cut and replace the rubber connecting hoses on top of the fuels tank.
Anyone here on the forum have direct experience with this?
Also any recommendation regarding make of replacement fuel pump, and are there any other items that need to be replaced at this time?
I have researched online and on the forum regarding how to remove the tank, and I find that some people say you have to disconnect the fuel lines under the rear axle, and that it is a 100% PITA, and other videos indicate that you can wiggle the tank out enough to remove the pump without disconnecting the lines under the car, and yet another post indicated that you can remove the tank without disconnecting the fuel lines under the car but instead cut and replace the rubber connecting hoses on top of the fuels tank.
Anyone here on the forum have direct experience with this?
Also any recommendation regarding make of replacement fuel pump, and are there any other items that need to be replaced at this time?
#43
If you damage the fuel line(s) under the tank you will be SOL for new replacement(s) (they are NLA).
I have never tried to remove/slide back the tank without removing the fuel lines but then again I have a lift and the proper tools to do the job correctly.
Salvage yards rarely have good replacements because the guys removing the tank don't remove the lines until AFTER the tank is out and the lines are DESTROYED!!!!!!!!!!!
good luck
bob
I have never tried to remove/slide back the tank without removing the fuel lines but then again I have a lift and the proper tools to do the job correctly.
Salvage yards rarely have good replacements because the guys removing the tank don't remove the lines until AFTER the tank is out and the lines are DESTROYED!!!!!!!!!!!
good luck
bob
#44
Yes, reading posts on this forum and internet in general it seems the fuel lines to the tank have to be treated with extreme care.
I know this has been beaten to death but it is frustrating that the design of the gas tank didn't allow for a much easier access to the submerged fuel pump, it would have been so easy to do during the design stage.
My only dilemma now is which fuel pump to use, there are many in the $25-$85 price range, and I'm not sure which brand is better or not, Carter, Bosch, AC Delco, etc. etc.
I know this has been beaten to death but it is frustrating that the design of the gas tank didn't allow for a much easier access to the submerged fuel pump, it would have been so easy to do during the design stage.
My only dilemma now is which fuel pump to use, there are many in the $25-$85 price range, and I'm not sure which brand is better or not, Carter, Bosch, AC Delco, etc. etc.
#45
#46
#47
#48
So, it did end up being the fuel pump, the condition became more frequent and I could hear the pump grumbling and groaning in the tank as it tried to function.
Due to the numerous posts here and other places about how difficult it is to access the fuel tank lines, especially without a lift, I opted to let my local independent shop do the work. Labor was $350, I supplied the fuel pump (AC Delco $35.00) and a new fuel filter.
Picked the car up yesterday and it now runs perfectly again.
Due to the numerous posts here and other places about how difficult it is to access the fuel tank lines, especially without a lift, I opted to let my local independent shop do the work. Labor was $350, I supplied the fuel pump (AC Delco $35.00) and a new fuel filter.
Picked the car up yesterday and it now runs perfectly again.
The following 3 users liked this post by Carnival Kid:
#49
P1111 is NOT AN ERROR CODE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
The P1111 is a 'readiness' tests completed.
If you clear a P1111 you will get a P1000. Then you drive until you get a P1111 and you get angry because the car is happy but you think it is a fault with the MAFS or something so you clear it and the DTC changes to P1000 again.
So you drive the car until it is happy again and sets P1111 but you still think it is a fault so you clear it and get P1000.
STOP THE MADNESS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
bob
The P1111 is a 'readiness' tests completed.
If you clear a P1111 you will get a P1000. Then you drive until you get a P1111 and you get angry because the car is happy but you think it is a fault with the MAFS or something so you clear it and the DTC changes to P1000 again.
So you drive the car until it is happy again and sets P1111 but you still think it is a fault so you clear it and get P1000.
STOP THE MADNESS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
bob
#50
Also, there is NO SUCH CODE. It would be P0111 or some such (and, again, it's not what this thread is about).
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